I've found that the BSF maggots create the moisture via their effluent and that BSF maggots themselves appearing aren't a sign of too much moisture. My compost is in a vented rotating barrel and pretty much always has BSF maggots, no matter what I do. I've just accepted them. I have noticed a few things--they're great at breaking stuff down and my compost rots much faster than before. They make effluent so make sure you're either filling the compost with dry stuff constantly or have a place for the fluid to drain. I keep a bucket under mine and dump the liquid on my fruit trees, they love it. The buggers can survive sitting in the tub in the sun in the summer in Arizona. As long as you turn the compost a few times a week it doesn't go anaerobic. I use the compost with the maggots in it just fine, it has never damaged my plants. The maggots have a distinct smell they create that kinda makes me gag but if the compost smells like vinegar or crazy putrid rot from a distance, you need to start draining the liquid and aerating. So, weird smell when in touching distance, yes. Terrible smell everyone notices, no. And, I've never noticed swarms of flies in my area. Pretty sure I'm helping support the local bird and lizard population with all the maggots.

New member, 1st post, great thread. I have been battling rats for many years now and I always end up back here one way or another so I finally joined :) I feel for each and every one of you that has a mouse/rat problem. We are in a large city and we had rats in our old 1960s garage that was just storing stuff and an old project 4x4. Then we tore down and built new, no problems with rats for a couple years until I built a roofed outdoor storage area around 2 sides of the garage. With tires, truck parts, 2x4s rubbermaid totes it turned into a rats den. I started off with victor metal spring traps which were effective for a while but now all they do is act as a plate and are always empty with the bait gone. Upgraded to the plastic jaws ones, I really like these because there is a much better no touch factor when getting rid of carcass and rebaiting is alot easier and safer. However, these have also turned into the second entree and they are licked dry as well. Seems the only rats I have caught in the last little while were rats who were scurrying along the wall and walked over it lol. Now, Dec 2013 is the next upgrade, 2 electric rat zappers from amazon have just been set out 2 days ago. I sprinkles some assorted nuts and beans around to give them a free taste and convince them everything is safe. :/ crappy thing is, its so cold and the little buggers are off camped in someplace warm and I hope its not my attic (Fingers crossed its not my attic!!) Oh btw, we are changing out the old black compost bin that sits on the ground to a 55 gallon plastic drum DIY tumbling bin.Search google for it and theres many DIY tutorials. Here is a link that might be useful: Amazon rat zappers $32 each This post was edited by Metrogardener on Mon, Dec 9, 13 at 12:59

The wire bin idea is a great idea (whatup Pablo!). Now that I have read all these great ideas I plan on running to one of the box stores and get some fencing and wing nuts too. I have two plots that are a long way away from my main bins and have been thinking of making some new bins there. The fence will be the way I go this time to see how it works. As it relates to the four (4) -bin systems you can take a look at the link below, I posted about it when I completed it about a month ago. I use it for storing and curing finished compost. Once cured I use the compost to top-dress all my beds before planting in them. As long as the cost is minimal I am all for doing things the "free" way. In regards to the clay comment, when making the piles moist some water usually gets on the clay and creates a slippery surface. I was stating to be careful in that regard, for our clay can be like ice when wet, as you well know. Not to change focus, but Pablo, have you ever composted any of your rabbit manure? I got two truckloads from a new friend (HA!) that sells champion rabbits. I have two bins full of rabbit manure, leaves, coffee, and other kitchen items and was wondering if you have ever gone that route, seeing as you raise rabbits. There is also a very large pile of rabbit manure and leaves I can use when making the new wire bin. I am sure you have not accumulated truckloads, but was wondering just the same. I know that barn where my new friend keeps his rabbits is strong with urine odor, and the piles are smoking like a choo-choo train when I turn them. Do ya got any skinny on rabbit compost? Now you guys have me excited about wire bins, will this obsession ever end? Oh no, it just keeps getting better Blutranes Here is a link that might be useful: DIY Compost Bins

I don't know the average basement temperature, but I believe it stays within the acceptable range for worms; my guess would be > 50F and E. fetida will do fine in that range, but they will be more productive (eat more & make more babies) if temps are above 70F. That's the temperature in the bin, not the air temp. E. hortensis may do better if your basement is consistently on the cool side. However, it MAY take them a bit longer to get up to speed because they grow and reproduce at a slower rate compared to E. fetida. I'd like to do as little food prep as possible; optimally keep chopped material in a small composting container in my kitchen and empty it every day or two. From what I've read, worm prefer to be feed less frequently, and do best with some pre-processing. I'm open to recommendations for the the least fussy method that works. There are many food prep routines, so take this as just a random sample. Since your husband is concerned about smells, I'm going to assume he also wouldn't be happy with fruit flies. (most of us aren't, so it's no knock on him for either aversion.) I recently started my first indoor bin and this seems to be working well so far. I have a few 1 gal. ziploc bags (Hefty brand with an actual zipper "handle"). I put one on the kitchen counter and put scraps into it until it's full. I then take kitchen shears and carefully (don't puncture the bag) cut the larger pieces. You can skip this part by chopping things up before you put them in the bag or just skip it altogether. The full bag then goes in the freezer for 2-3 days and an empty bag goes on the counter. Defrost the bag for a day, drain excess liquid (maybe for an outdoor plant?) and spread over half your bin. Rinse & air dry the bag so it's ready for it's next turn in the cycle. I guess I haven't done my homework on the quantity of scraps -- but it can be a fair amount -- although it's cyclical. I definitely have more in the summer when my CSA is active. I assumed that the worm population would adjust to my quantity. The worm population will grow according to the conditions provided for the worms. A given amount of worms can adjust easily if there is less food, but they can't really adjust if you suddenly provide more food than they are able to process in a few days. I know the amount will vary, but collect scraps for 2 days and see how much it weighs. At least it gives you a rough idea. I was thinking of using red wrigglers, and starting with a couple pounds. I would feed smaller quantities in the beginning and increase the feedings as they multiplied....Is a 55 gallon drum considered a big flow through bin? 2 lbs. of E. fetida would be a good start for a standard 55 gal. drum FT. I consider it to be medium-sized, but on the large size for most indoor systems. If you read Jason's long thread about his 55 gal. FT, you know he ramped that up to the point it was able to process a lot of scraps. I don't know if he ever harvested all the worms to see what he had in there, but I'm guessing it could easily hold 10-15 lbs. of worms. Once that system is mature, it could probably take 10 lbs. of scraps every other day. In your original post you asked "Should I be looking to go smaller?". It will mean a little more work later to "upgrade" your system, but considering some of the unknown variables, it might be best to start smaller. Although a flow-through system has definite advantages, a simple tote worm bin can also work quite well. Stock it with 1 lb. of E. fetida and start feeding 1 lb. of frozen scraps once a week. You can slowly decrease the time between feedings to 6, 5, 4, etc. days as the worm population increases and your bin ecosystem matures. If all goes well, you will have 2 lbs. of worms after 3 months of no-stink, no-fly vermicomposting. We can go over details if you choose to go this route. Cheers, Andrew