Roses That Don't Shrink in the Heat
ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
13 years ago
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jerijen
13 years ago
mashamcl
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Roses That Don't Like the Heat
Comments (36)'Emanuel' is one of the very best Austin's for hot, dry gardens. 'Radio Times' is another good one, as 'The Reeve', 'William Shakespeare', 'Swan' (a magnificent Rose) and -whereas short lived in summer-,'The Alnwick Rose', 'Glamis Castle', 'St Swithun'... Many Teas and Chinas crisp relentlessly here in summer, only a few are still good: 'Mme Falcot' (ex India), 'Mrs Dudley Cross', 'Le V�suve'. 'Odorata'/'Spice' shrink under hot sun, but it's continuousely in bloom. However, some Roses seems to wait for summer to show up their beauty. I can't succeed to see a single open bloom in Spring from 'Tipsy Imperial Concubine' (I use to call her Tipsy Imperial Artichoke'!), 'Clothilde Soupert', 'Leveson Gower' and that big Bracteata Hybrid, 'Alba Odorata'/"Maria Leonida". But they are a magnificent sight in July and August. So I still grow them and enjoy them when other Roses have their bad time. I'd like to add that heat resistance in Roses -as in all other plants- is not only a matter of temperatures and humidity. The kind of soil they grow in is a very important element to consider, as it's able to influence a great number of different aspects in plant's physiology. I saw recently in a garden in Catania, Sicily, a huge 'Felicia' growing in an abandoned corner: she was in full sun, bare earth, no watering, near a orange grove. And it was early June, with average 30 �C. The plant, full of perfect green leaves, showed a huge mass of big, full clusters of fragrant blooms, as large as I only saw in England. The same rose suffered by midday in my garden in May with no more than 26 �C, watered almost dayly, and my blooms where less than a half the size in Catania. So... WHAT it was the "x factor"? The soil! And, overall, a whole different micro-climate. In Catania, they are blessed from Mount Etna influence and that means: to equal day temperatures, lower night temperatures; a rich, deep, ultra-fertile volcanic soil; a typical, very thin "mist" who lightly veil the sky in the afternoon, protecting the plants from being scorched by sun. That 'Felicia' was surely sinking their roots deep into that fertile soil, finding the right amount of water, their leaves protected by air humidity and night freshness, enjoying their settled climate conditions, whereas mine was fighting with a thin, granitic soil, under a sharp sun, and -maybe more important- with jumping climate conditions: humid nights followed by dry, windy days... what -I've experienced- the roses seems to hate the most. Hope, as usual, this should help. Maurizio...See MorePopular roses you don't care for
Comments (167)I didn't like thorny and non-fragrant (to me) Darlow's Enigma when I had it -- and I didn't like Distant Drums when I saw it growing in the BBG, though other folks were mad for it for a while. Most of the others mentioned here I do like, or at least don't mind, including Hot Cocoa, which I actually find rather beautiful. To me Double Delight is beautiful as a cut flower and the fragrance is fantastic. I think almost any rose can be made to look beautiful in the right spot and with the right conditions and companions. I have even reconciled myself to Knockout because it is so cheerful and willing in public plantings. One gets more mellow with age. I now look back with nostalgia on Circus, which used to be so despised, it grew in everyone's shady back yard when I lived in Philly along Trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliatus) and required no care. Now it has disappeared. Also Peace and Tiffany. Ah, well, fashions come and go....See MoreHelp: I don't want to kill my Desert Rose!
Comments (2)Hi dreynolds, Honestly, this is my opinion on what I would do. I would take this plant home & place it in a warm sunny position & enjoy its beauty at home. Desert roses don't like the cold at all & need plenty of heat/sun to flower well. (Wet & cold conditions will cause root rot)...I understand wanting something beautiful for the office to look at while you work.... I think you might be better off buying a different plant that would cope with the cold in your office. It would probably be difficult in an office environment to give your desert rose what it needs to keep it happy. Some others here might give you some advice on how to grow in your office environment.... Here's a few tips on what makes a happy desert rose. Lots of sunshine/heat/light.... Free draining potting mix (your cactus soil is correct, but probably needs some perlite mixed into soil for an office situation).....Water, then let dry or almost dry between waterings... Do not over pot. Desert roses don't mind being pot bound....See MoreCold zone rose gardeners who don't winterize. Are grafted roses best?
Comments (16)I really have mixed feedback on this issue. I totally agree that the robust growers in cold zones do fine on their own roots and you don't have to worry about suckers from the graft. Too robust growers (like gallicas) can be better grafted so that you can plant the graft ABOVE the soil (only) for those super-hardy roses and avoid the gallica taking over the garden bed. I also agree that grafted roses of the wimpier varieties of HTs and floris are more robust in their first year or two and tend to grow bushy faster than own root versions of those plants. However, I've recently started to experience the down side of grafted HTs in a cold climate. First of all, virtually all of the grafted HTs and floris that I've planted with the graft properly buried have gone own root over time if they've survived. For instance, I bought In the Mood grafted from a local nursery and it was fabulous and bushy in its first year. The second year and for every year after that, it was a knee high one-cane wonder until it finally gave up the ghost and died after about 6 years. The same process has been happening more gradually with my grafted Savoy Hotel. It was lush (maybe 4.5' by 4.5') and incredible in its first year or two, ranking in my top 20 of roses. Every year since then it has declined and come back from the winter more slowly. By August this year, my plant in optimum sun and soil conditions has just now reached almost 3 feet with 3 canes on it and a couple of blooms here and there for the first time all season (nothing at all in June). Here's a contrast picture to show that effect - this is 2013 in June for Savoy Hotel at its full 4.5'x4.5' glory. Savoy Hotel is at the bottom right corner keeping up with Madame Isaac Periere in the back of it with no trouble. Granted, this was a particularly good rose year, but you can see the relative sizes. Now just one year later in 2014, here's Savoy Hotel in front of MIP (bottom center) also in June, and this was an average rose year for me. It's too late for MIP on the shepherd's hook to be blooming, but you can see MIP's height by the purple clematis. Notice that she's now in 2014 only 3' high and has about 4 blooms every couple of weeks. She has declined from that since, even though she's still a very nice rose. I don't have any more recent bush pictures for her since I only get the scattered blooms any more, and only late in the season to boot. One other effect I'm seeing in my older grafted roses this spring in particular is graft failure for a lot of my well-established roses with the graft well buried. Even under the soil, it seems like a grafted rose starts running out of places to grow new basal shoots after a while. For instance, this spring I lost an 8 year old Dream Come True (the tall rose at the left of the first picture) for no good reason that I could see, and it was a mild winter. Sure, you see pictures of 50 year old grafted HTs in warm climates, but those are warm climates. I suspect that if we have a 50 year old HT rose in cold climates that started out grafted and is still alive, it has gone own root in that time and is a robust rose on its own roots. My reluctant conclusions are that if a rose is going to be a wimp, it will reach that state on its own whether own root or grafted. If I get an own root HT rose through its first winter it will increase in size to its sustainable height and vigor and more or less stay there for the duration. If I get a grafted HT rose through its first winter, it will decrease in size to its sustainable height and vigor and stay there till the graft fails or it goes completely own root. There are only a few roses where I think the graft did give the rose a little boost in survival over that first winter, Memorial Day and Oklahoma come to mind, but for the most part I don't think it buys me anything in either survivability or vigor after the first year. That's why I tend to grow my HTs and floris on their own roots. I want to know the long-term height it's really going to be in its early years, I get reliable winter survival of the original rose from own roots if they get to a good size in their first year, and I don't have to dig up a massive root system when it dies or deal with suckers. Just my two cents Cynthia...See Moregreybird
13 years agowindeaux
13 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
13 years agojerijen
13 years ago
sherryocala
13 years agohosenemesis
13 years agojerijen
13 years agowindeaux
13 years agojerijen
13 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
13 years agojerijen
13 years agosherryocala
13 years ago
hoovb zone 9 sunset 23
13 years agojovy1097
13 years agoingrid_vc so. CA zone 9
13 years agoanita22
13 years agohoovb zone 9 sunset 23
13 years ago
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