now is the time ... i would go for about a two footer .. just less stress all around ... probably wont even know it was moved ... though as noted.. knowing what kind of pine might make a difference .. i would bare root it ... and shoot for about a two foot spread of roots ... free range pines.. probably have a very shallow root system .... in my sand ... if damp ... you can nearly pull them out ... though a little spading will help ... trim all broken root ends ... you should be able to tell in very early spring.. whether the buds are elongating.. if not... move another .... since you seem to have an unlimited supply ... now is a good time.. since it will have two cool root growing seasons.. before the heat of next summer ... rather than waiting until spring.. and hoping it will get 6 to 8 weeks before the real heat hits ... this should work for z6 and colder .... though it might be getting a bit late further north .. ken

Rick, I'd advise using the existing soil as backfill material-no amendments of any kind, no fertilizer, no nothing! Research has shown (For quite some time now) that it is counterproductive to enrich or in some other way amend that little space where the roots are going to first colonize as they begin to grow. After all, if the trees are to survive, it is imperative that their roots spread far beyond that area, so from that standpoint alone, you can see that it is essentially meaningless to upgrade the soil conditions in that small space. Furthermore, when soil is amended, drainage and water-holding characteristics are changed. This is problematic because it can cause that area to A) Dry out faster than surrounding soil, or B) Turn into a sort of basin or bathtub, holding too much water. Either effect is undesirable. So no, do not change that soil. Just use what was dug out of the holes to fill in around the root balls. One thing that can help the trees long-term is proper planting depth. Plant such that the root flare, that small swollen area where trunk meets roots, is at or just slightly above finish grade. Number one mistake in tree-planting=planting too deeply. So watch for that. Water as needed-not on a schedule. So if it is raining a lot, you may not have to water at all. Conversely, if you get into a dry spell, watering might need to be upped to twice weekly, etc. Just stick your fingers in the ground or probe with a hand weeder, screwdriver, etc, to ascertain soil dryness. Research is beginning to cloud this picture, but I'm still a proponent of using woodchip or shredded bark mulch around transplanted trees and other plants. You could do that. Don't hit the trunk with string trimmer, lawn mower, etc. All the sap and water that is flowing up and down that tree has to pass through the area just under the bark. Furthermore, banging it up allows decay fungi an easy way in. If deer are numerous, you may want to provide for protection from herbivory. Fencing, spray-on antifeedants, and other techniques are all used. Deer can make a mess of your young trees in a hurry. Later, after they've achieved some growth and are starting to look real nice, bucks like to come along and rub the velvet off their antlers, completely destroying the tree(s) in the process. The buck will pick your favorite tree to do this! Write back if you have more questions. +oM

sounds like a lot of worry for something that may never happen .... especially prophylactic chemical use ... in my z5 MI .... near the OH border ... white pine grow 3 to 5 feet per year,once established .... re-leader extremely quickly ... and are basically weed trees ... in the sense that you cant beat them back with a stick ... once they get going .... some of your presumptions MIGHT be wrong ... the fact that it is in the wide open.. suggests not just your conclusion.. but the conclusion that the odds of any given bug finding it low ... and that you will be able to ladder up the thing for 10 years ... i would bet on MAYBE 3 years ... since you wont be putting a ladder up against fresh weak growth .... so.. i would wonder if all your worry is worth it .... also .. given their growth rate.. i hope you planted it a good 20 to 30 feet from your house .. they are not strong wooded ... and subject to shedding large parts in 20 or 30 years.. in harsh weather.. like winter ice storms and wind .... good luck ken

do me a favor.. take a look and report back.. how much did the leader grow this year.. 3 to 5 feet???? if so ... your 20 foot plant.. its going to be 40 feet inside 3 to 5 more years ... these are forest trees.. wood production ... check out the link if they are within about 50 feet of any structure.. or anything that can be harmed.. including your hated neighbor .. frankly .. they should go .... when i moved into this house.. i had 6 similar pines surrounding a deck ... and i could have taken them down for free ... 5 years later.. after 2 ice storms .. and repeated winter damage .. i had to pay $1000 for them to be removed ... i know you are proud of your babes.. but think long and hard.. about where these forest giants are going.. in the very near future ... anyway ... a 20 foot tree is not concerned about canopy removal .. with its fully established.. aggressive root system.. if it were me.. i would simply prune them up as high as i wanted.. and watch that root system.. make the leader grow 5 feet next spring .... and while that is happening.. you can be sitting under the tree ... if you love strobus .. there are many dwarf.. or slower growing strobus.. which can neatly fit in suburbia.. without them turning into 100 foot telephone poles in a 50 foot square backyard ... [now you will tell me these are at the cottage on your 100 acres..lol .. darn facts always get in the way of a good story ] ken Here is a link that might be useful: link