Preventing White Pine Weevil on young eastern white pine
daniel_cl
13 years ago
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Comments (11)
spruceman
13 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
13 years agoRelated Discussions
White Pines in the Southeast
Comments (28)I was too embarrassed to call FF and add to my order - I've done this before - plus if I add any more, then my shipping will increase, which is big from Oregon. So I ordered 3 white pines/p. strobus from the Arbor Day Foundation, and while I was at it, I ordered a downy serviceberry/amelanchier arborea, and they threw in a forsythia and a red maple for free. I don't care anything about the forsythia, but I guess I can find a place for it in my front yard. The Arbor Day Foundation's trees are very reasonably priced. Sherry...See Moreestablishing white pines on rocky slope
Comments (11)White pines, when young, have some moderate tolerance for shade, but for best development white pines need more or less full sun. If you have a 90 degree window to the sun overhead, that is OK. If you have anything less, your white pines will grow rather slowly. Norway maples are invasive, but if you can get some other more shade tolerant trees to grow in the poor soil, that may be best. As for my recommendation for larger seedlings/transplants. I can't really believe that anyone thinks that my recommendation has anything to do with the article quoted. We are still talking about very tiny trees. I am currently planting about 350 spruce and pines in sized ranging from 14 inches to two feet. I recommend trees of this size because the roots are longer and when I plant them I can get them down into the native soil 18 inches or more, giving them considerable drought tolerance. I don't think any preference for 6 inch seedlings is based on any good science--the roots are simply too short to place deep into the soil and with a week of hot dry weather they will be goners unless watered regularly. Anyone who claims that using the larger size seedlings and transplants I recommend is creating an undue amount of transplant shock is simply mistaken. I have over 35 years experience planting seedlings and transplants of various sizes and what I am hearing here contradicts all I have seen during that experience. In addition, forgetting about the ability to get roots deep enough to afford some drought tolerance, the larger sized seedlings and transplants are just enough taller that they can withstand weed competition better without quite as much constant weeding or use of pesitcides to prevent them from being overtopped. Sorry Mr, C. Whitcomb. --Spruce...See MoreFull Eastern White Pines
Comments (4)link to conifer intro below .... which they are.. and there is a conifer forum.. but i dont care where you post ... i swear the ACS site had a pruning article.. but i cant find it ... but you havent provided much info.. 'training' a conifer.. should have started when it was a few feet high.. i dont really know how you are going to change a large conifer ... what you call 'very tall' ... as resin notes.. you are growing wild forest trees ... and they grow very tall.. and are usually bare for the first 30 to 50 feet.. when they are 100 feet tall ... its in the dna ... if wifey doesnt like them.. it might be time for them to go ... and start over ... i would love to see pix of what you are talking about .... otherwise its just all speculation.. as your words will never really give us any idea of whats going on ... good luck ken Here is a link that might be useful: link...See MoreDying Contorted White Pine?
Comments (9)Clay soil has to be amended, not replaced. The hole was too big, it's holding too much water, and the breaking apart of the root ball didn't help either. The short, stumpy root you refered to was the tap root, which is why it was so big. When you buy a balled and burlapped tree, you only purchase 5-7% of the root system. Thats PLENTY if planted properly. To successfully plant any tree in clay soil, dig your hole wide and shallow. You only want it deep enough to set your plant on and have about 2-3'' of root ball above ground. Don't try to break up the soil underneath, you want it like a shelf.Use a tarp when you dig your hole so you can properly mix the compost(any type of compost-it brings good microbes to the soil to break up the clay) 50-50 with your existing soil. This is the mixture you will use to backfill. When you have your hole prepared, gently place the still wrapped root ball in the hole and when you have it exactly the way you want it,and you arent going to move it any more, cut the ties on the root ball, peel the burlap back so it's not against the trunk of the tree, and backfill. Then cover with mulch and water in. You want to keep newly planted trees evenly moist, not wet. One slow, deep water a week (45 min or so) should be plenty. FYI- the reason you dig your hole wide and not deep in clay soil is because you are breaking the soil interface...giving the water a place to drain off when you do water. It prevents water from sitting around the root ball like a clay pot. The taproot, which is the one that was cut, is only temporarily used by the tree for nutrition. When the tree is established, it kills the tap root and it's used as more of stabalization system. The trees feeder roots will all be in the top 18'' of the soil. Another reason to amend out as far as you can. If you amend too DEEP, the first time it rains, your tree settles and is sitting in a cereal bowl full of water. I hope that wasnt too random. I had a lot to say....See Moredaniel_cl
13 years agospruceman
13 years agodaniel_cl
13 years agodaniel_cl
13 years agospruceman
13 years agodaniel_cl
13 years agodaniel_cl
13 years agospruceman
13 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5