Help me eliminate some roses!
gardenerzone4
13 years ago
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Comments (15)
petaloid
13 years agophylrae
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Please help me choose some climbing roses
Comments (11)I know all about the first come, first served policy! To my cost! Some trees were taken out before I moved in, so shade is not really a factor. The lot lies on an East/West axis, with a fence and cedar hedge along the long north edge. The house sits at the east end of the lot, so the back yard is actually something of a u-shaped suntrap, with the empty part of the u facing south. The most difficult part of the yard for roses is along the west, which is where the trees used to be. I have the albas there. Some roses are wrapped in burlap, two are tipped and covered with dirt and compost, and all but the albas, rugosas, and a hybrid setigira are mounded with dirt and straw. This last winter has been quite mild, with only one night of lows near 0, and the ground not staying frozen--I am glad I mounded, even if I do get some canker....See MoreMiticide for eliminating RRD mites on roses?
Comments (15)No, I have not seen that paper and my search skills have failed me in trying to find it. A single population of virus, per genetic analysis, yes? (not too surprising, actually). It would be interesting to know about the mites, too. On the one hand there is likely to be a lot of gene flow due to their mobility, but populations at distance might still show genetic difference. The University of Arkansas team's discovery that it's a virus was a huge step forward because it clarified the battlefield, immensely. Unfortunately, the battle does not favor the rose gardener. Of the two halves of the problem, the virus itself is in some ways the lesser half. If the virus' primary or sole mode of movement were through human activities (e.g., grafting, like the mosaic viruses), the solution would be straightforward. Instead, the primary vector is an elusive, difficult-to-kill, highly mobile insect with fair likelihood of evading or resisting contact poisons/methods of any type because of its behaviors. Without a systemic miticide available, attempting to suppress or eradicate the mite population is most likely futile. Even with a systemic miticide, development of resistance is always a possibility. So, as you said, Ann, the only real strategy (other than leaving those roses where they are) is to watch closely for infection. It would be great if an accessible test for the virus in tissues were to be developed soon, rather than having to rely on morphological observations. This post was edited by catspa on Fri, May 31, 13 at 14:30...See MoreRose waterlogged,some blackspots, help me
Comments (18)(continuing hijack :) henryinct-- Tebuconazole (Bayer) kills the developing fungus inside the leaf. Elsewhere in the study, she describes how, inside leaves treated with DMI fungicides such as Bayer, the chemical destroys existing fungal structures. She includes microscopic photographs showing this destruction. There is no need to theorize, you can see it happening. Respectfully, it is incorrect to say it takes 7 or more days for "the spores to germinate into fungal cells." She observed spores germinating in 7-8 hours when wet at the appropriate temperature. Within 7-10 days at favorable temperature, there are externally visible symptoms. If you look at the tebuconazole column on the right (leaf pictures, pdf p.85), the middle leaf has tiny spots which probably had formed 7 days after infection and were arrested by the tebuconazole treatment at that time. (A poster here, Pete in Daytona, observed this happening a few years ago when the product first came out.) In the lower right-hand corner, the obvious spots that had formed 10 days after infection were arrested at that stage by the tebuconazole treatment at that time. Elsewhere in the study, she says that such leaves do not finally succumb to blackspot but continue to function. However, if the infection was more advanced at the time of treatment, the leaf has already been damaged too much and will die, even though the chemical kills the fungal body....See MoreHelp me eliminate the fou fou plants!
Comments (17)You can get the following cheaper locally, so why mailorder at all? Baptisia australis - definitely worth growing, but requires patience. Twilite Prairie Blues is much faster growing, but darker flowered. Brunnera Jack Frost is in my opinion better than looking glass. I also highly recommend Emerald Mist. Calamintha nepeta Montrose White is on the top of my list for long season color in a compact plant and is highly underused. Euphorbia polychroma is a much stronger grower than First Blush (a side note- First Blush was selected in Germantown, WI) First Blush needs well drained soil to thrive, straight polychroma is more forgiving. Interesting that Bluestone lists polychroma and epithymoides seperately, they're synonymous. Liatris Kobold. Do try to find 'Kobold Original' as it will be dwarf clonal material, not a tall seed grown strain like regular 'Kobold'. Penstemon Dark Towers is (believe it or not) stronger growing than Husker's Red and has much better dark color to the foliage and seed heads. Like Husker's Red, no problem with clay soil. Scabiosa Butterfly Blue has rarely overwintered for me. Alpine plant that blooms its head off. Needs great drainage. Ultraviolet and Vivid Violet have overwintered more reliably, but steel need excellent drainage. Sedum Purple Emperor is one of the better purple-foliaged sedums available. Chocolate Drop is even better for habit and color. Sub. varieties locally available to consider: Agastache Heatwave or Pule Pygmy- A. rupestris 30" tall hardy in well drained soils. Solid performer with orangey-coral flowers. Anemone Alice or Price Henry- Pamina or September Charm are both nice pinks. Almost All fall-blooming Anemone are colony formers and need some management to stay in bounds. Boltonia Pink- Jim Crockett is a nice dwarf lavender Boltonia. Campanula Portenschlagiana- C. posharskyana Blue Waterfall is well behaved groundcover campanula. My fav. campanula next to C. summertime blues. Coreopsis Sweet Dreams- all coreopsis need great drainage to get through our winters. Sweet Dreams has been difficult here and quite a bit leggy. I think the only one on your list I would truly skip. Dianthu Raspberry Surprise or First Love- all Dianthus do fairly well here as long as they aren't too wet in winter and early spring. Firewitch is similar to First love. Geranium Karmina- Nice variety will do well. Dwarf Monarda Pink Supreme - Had this once, seemed nice enough. Very similar to Grand Marshall which has been a solid performer with virtually no mildew. Skip the new pink Grand Mum. Worst mildew in my monardas this year. Worse even than M. fistulosa. Nepta Snowflake- somewhat weaker growing than other nepetas, but when sited well that isn't a negative in my opinion. Personally I would just plant another Calaminta nepeta montrose white. The Plant Geek www.confessionsofaplantgeek.blogspot.com...See MoreKrista_5NY
13 years agoMaryl (Okla. Zone 7a)
13 years agogardenerzone4
13 years agokarenforroses
13 years agopredfern
13 years agobonny46
13 years agogardenerzone4
13 years agokarenforroses
13 years agozippitydoodaday
8 years agodan_keil_cr Keil
8 years agoparker25mv
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agodan_keil_cr Keil
8 years ago
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