Summer, if you can grow Knockout and Carefree Beauty roses, you can probably also grow the nice variety of Easy Elegance Roses, a lot of Kordes roses (like the Vigorosa or Fairy Tale series of roses), and quite a few Buck roses (just not his lavender varieties). I've had good luck with a lot of the Austin roses, and some like Teasing Georgia and Lady of Shalott are in zone 4 pockets of my yard that should work for you. TrueBlue is right that my Barcelona/Frances Dubreuil is at least 7 years old and is cane hardy most years, though it needed a lot of trimming last year. It has the advantage of being the most intensely fragrant rose I've ever grown as well. Being a zone pusher myself, I've killed at least as many roses as I've overwintered successfully (I keep records - it's almost exactly equal at this point). All you can do is try things that work for you in your yard. A good rule of thumb is that something labeled a "shrub" rose is likelier to be hardy than a traditional Hybrid Tea, but there are a lot of exceptions to that principle. Obviously your Morden Sunrise wasn't as hardy as it should be for a shrub, but that may have related to being a tree standard as Seil noted, not a bush in the ground where you can bury the graft and protect it from the harsh winters. Bottom line is not to give up on roses, just broaden out the range of what you're willing to try. And don't necessarily trust your local vendors if they want to sell you a lot of Hybrid Teas - some garden centers in cold zones are thrilled to sell you HTs because they function as annuals and you have to replace them every year ($$). I have hundreds of HTs that overwinter fine, but it's a learning process to find ones that will overwinter easily in zones 4-5 vs. those that fade at the slightest hint of cold and are truly the zone 7 they are advertised. Cynthia

Some of the varieties are root, branch and leaf hardy. Some varieties have hardier buds than -10F as well. I have had a crop or two off a couple of seedling trees but not quality fruit. Contender and Reliance are possible choices for hardier and later blooming flowers. Late frost and/or too early bloom are the most common dangers to the flower buds. FWIW I live in the heart of Minneapolis; so that is a heat island and take this with whatever salt necessary. Bottom line is that peaches are not a dependable cash crop really anywhere in Minnesota, but will produce crops many years anyway, but probably only in the southern third and/or in south central urban heat islands. By the time one gets north of the Twin Cities peaches in the ground are probably never going to blossom. And tree ripened quality cultivars are definitely superior to anything from a grocery store.

Some hardy roses I've grown for the past few years or more: Rosa acicularis: Once bloomer, palest pink, slightly cupped flowers last only a day, but one year it bloomed for a full month! Also it is easily the most healthy rose I have. It suckers like crazy too, so I planted them in large dirt pockets in a rock-cut. Their red canes really charm me. The leaves are matte and a bit grayish-blue. It was planted a year later than my William Baffin, and by the second year it had grown taller and looked healthier than he did, though they were in the same flower bed. (William outgrew it the following year though). Super vigorous and healthy. Cute hips all winter, they are small and round and red. In one dirt pocket, the other perennials didn't survive the winter at all, but this rose is still doing very well, not even a bit of dieback! No pruning needed at all. Rosa glauca/rubrifolia: Beautiful foliage, especially when it's clumped in a border where the other roses' foliage is apple-green or red-tinged - breaks the monotony even when there are no flowers yet. Very healthy and vigorous. Nice hips and flowers. Rosa virginiana: Cute semi-glossy leaves that are smaller than acicularis'. Not as vigorous as R. acicularis. Similar flowers. They aren't nice and cupped though, they kind of flop. William Baffin: Became enormous in the most beautiful way, my favorite flower, very informal, bright cheery pink, pale pink reverse, quite blowsy. Super healthy plant. John Cabot: Quite vigorous, magenta flowers, Surprisingly had a quite a bit of dieback this winter, down to the snowline,( good thing we had lots of that!)... but then again we had a terrible winter this year. Apple-green foliage that goes well next to R. glauca. Quite a bit of blue in its flowers I find, compared to William's. Flower carpet scarlet and pink: I've had them for about 6 years now, and they always die down to the ground and come back well. Their graft union is quite deep. They flower later than all my other roses, I'm guessing it's because they have to start from scratch every Spring. Their flowers are beautiful. The hips aren't that nice though, they just remain small and green. They don't drop their leaves in the Fall (it's almost as if they are surprised by the arrival of winter every year!) and look very messy with dead leaves clinging to the dead canes in the Spring. But no diseases, year after year. Rosa rugosa rubra and alba: Charming and healthy. luckily they don't need a lot of pruning in the spring, because the thin sharp thorns go right through my leather gloves! Big silky flowers. Very healthy. Suckers. Belle Poitevine: (a rugosa) very healthy, suckers, charming pale pink flowers. A real treat. a bit old-fashioned. Lots of thorns. Alexander Mackenzie: Had it for about 5 years now, and it was always struggling. I switched it's site, and bought another plant from another store, to see if t was just a bad cultivar. We'll see how it does. Louis Jolliet: Struggling as a small plant, going on it's 3rd year, maybe the soil there is too sandy for it. The rugosas next to it (even the ones planted later,) are making it look small and insignificant. Giving it one more year! Emily Carr: Very special red flowers, cupped, red blooms. Has been sending out one or two very long canes every year, which looks a little awkward. Quadra: The best red rose for this zone. Period! Big red, double flowers, perfectly hardy, red-tinged foliage. The best! No diseases. A real treasure. The Dark Lady (Austin): The most beautiful flowers, tons of petals, globe-shaped, inner petals magenta, outermost petals more toward the color violet, always blooming, huge flowers, great for cutting... but it didn't survive the winter. I should've buried it in the vegetable garden or something. No diseases either. It is sadly missed. Marie Victorin: Beautiful pink with yellow blend, in pastel shades, big vicious thorns, a bit of blackspot, (I don't spray anything), they open very fully too quickly though. When I am leaving for work in a hurry in the am, they are perfect: baby-coralish-pink with a bit of yellow at the base, cupped - but when I get home from work they are almost flat, and a paler pink with the yellow blending gone. Still I wouldn't want to be without it. Floriferous. I have a few other ones but they are too new to comment yet!

Joey: Very good questions. Here are what I learn about own-root roses: 1) Where they are bred and the TYPE OF SOIL & weather predicts where they will be successful. Roses bred in acidic & rainy & less sun England will be successful in acidic & high rain East coast. But roses bred in alkaline & hot & sunny Southern France will be successful in alkaline clay & sunny garden. 2) How vigorous the root is? The newly bred roses ARE VERY VIGOROUS as own-roots, and can survive BOTH Pakistan 113 F hot summer and my zone 5a winter of -20 below zero. Vigorous roots are both long (at least 2 feet deep) and spreading wide. Vigorous roots are also THICK to store water in dry summer/winter. Dee-lish can die to the crown, but the root is so deep that it can go for 1 month without watering, either through a cold & dry winter or hot summer. Dee-lish has a climber as a parent (Graham Thomas). If a rose is bred with a climber in its genetics, it will have deeper root. 3) It's the selection of the fittest. In breeding roses, there will be many seeds ... and only the fittest seed sprout up to be the most vigorous root or to be disease-resistant. The other dozen to 100 seeds either don't germinate, or sprout some wimpy plants that black-spot & less petals, or can only bloom once a year. This answer your question directly, breed roses in your cold zone and see which seed can sprout in extreme cold temp., and which seed has the deepest root to survive the winter. English roses, bred in a colder climate than France: most have climber-heritage or Old Garden Roses' genetics, and English roses are actually favored by hot climate folks in Pakistan due to the vigor of their roots. Deeper root = more weather resistant. I hang out in Facebook Fragrant Rose Lovers group, where most Pakistan posters are. English roses are favored in both extreme hot and extreme cold climate due to the toughness of their roots to survive long periods of drought.