koda99 - You have almost exactly described my own project. I'm also leaning toward Rainbird. I'm planning to T into the main 1 inch PVC line between the well and the tank, with a shut-off valve to supply the lawn system, and keep everything at 1 inch. I have not figured out what I'm doing about a backflow preventer. I think it is required here by code, but I'm not real happy about what I read about pressure drop through the unit. I was not planning to install a filter, but after reading your notes, I may just do that. My plan is to run PVC as far as the valves, then pull poly throughout the yard. I'll keep watching for your updates. Good luck. Phil

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No, the aquifier is not that weak. It is the fact that they just do not install a big pump as part of a standard package from what I am finding out. My well will actually produce 20gpm no problem. It is a standard submersible pump in a 4" casing. The pump is already set with 40/60PSI cutoffs, however, the best combination of pressure/gpm is at the 47psi/10GPM which keeps the pump running. If I try to get 55psi out of the system I think I will only be getting about 6GPM out of it and when watering 1acre of grass I think it is unreasonable to try and water it with that flow rate. I would rather design the system for the correct flow than to have to redo it at a later point. On a happy note: I called my well guy and spoke to one of the owners yesterday. He said they can install a 1.5hp pump and new well tank for about $1200. That is giving my some credit for my existing system. I could also get what he called a constant velocity system. I guess it maintains a constant 70PSI and will pump an easy 20GPM but they want $1700 to install that system.

Hi L: Sudden rise in amperage past motor safe limit when in operation. The condition can be caused by a solid getting wedged between the impeller and the bowl causing drag, other times it can actually increase the pump's flow rate which of course is more work and higher amps. It has been my experience that when anything happens to the impeller that decreases it's ability to pump, like swallowing a brick chunk and breaking off a vain, the amperage decreases along with the flow rate. Similarly, if the voulte gets plugged, the flow rate goes down along with the amperage. It is a 3-ph pump, all 3 legs read nearly identical amps and volts and the voltage is balanced across legs 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3. Best guess, partially jammed inpeller. Oh yes, the partner pump in the wet well checks out fine eliminating the possibility of a down stream obstruction, speaking of which... the check valve for the pump will be the first thing to check for an obstruction when I can get help. The pumps and check valves are in a hazardous environment with lousy access, no way in Hades I'm dealing with that alone! Being that this is a raw sewage application, an upstream commutator (grinder) would likely eliminate the possibility of solids ever causing the pumps to become jammed. The pump is 1 1/2 y.o.. It replaced a pump that had been in service for 26 yrs., same make and model. Sadly, the best I can do for scheduled maintenance is checking voltage and amperage, wish I had a megger for resistance. In addition, I have both pumps on individual clocks that record amt. of run time. I check and record run time twice daily and have records going back about 6 years for reference and comparative purposes. The clocks have been money very well spent. The best I can do for flow is a v-notch weir, not too precise.