Definitely remove the exposed roots, and, if it's practical to do so, leave the fresh cuts exposed for a little while. If you cover them with dirt, there is a little bit more chance of pathogens entering through those cuts. This is a spectacular time to prune the roots that need to be pruned. Doing it now will minimize the time it takes the tree to seal back over the cuts. I can't tell much from the picture, especially since it is appearing upside down. I tried looking at it by turning my head as much as I could without suspending myself from the ceiling, but that didn't really help. From your written descriptions though, it sounds like you are right on track.

Thanks Dax! Wish I could take credit for it ;-) Hortster, you bring up a good very good point about where precisely rooting will take place. It does make me wonder if my potted tree was planted too deep after it was rooted or if the soil level could have actually been maintained as it was up potted (if it was even potted up since the roots on the flare could easily be traced all the way to the edge of the 2 gallon imprint). Two other thoughts: 1) I can't help but wonder if some of those roots on the "non-rooted" side could possible girdle the tree down the road. I have also seen some very nice pics of a tree (a deciduous magnolia) self root grafting. I think since it is actual root tissue down there, it should fuse if they ever press on each other. If it were actual trunk, then a SGR issue might well arise. 2) This thing was just about as good as it gets being potted stock originating from a large wholesale grower (Greenleaf). There were some roots that had begun to circle on the outside of the container but once teased out, they went straight and stayed that way. As some have stated in the past, this was fresh spring stock primed and ready to be planted. If this plant hung around in this 2 gallon pot all summer into fall growing roots in a circle, it would not have been quite so easy to straighten out and plant correctly. This post was edited by j0nd03 on Mon, Apr 7, 14 at 10:25

Planting depth looks pretty good. I would have split the difference between the existing soil line on the trunk and the level you have it planted. Once you add a couple inches of mulch, all the roots will be covered anyways. Planting hole itself looks a little too narrow but that is hard to get a feel for. I suppose you could have spread the roots out a little instead of leaving them straight down. I agree it is grafted and likely 'Wildfire' or 'Firemaster' as they sell both with the former being most likely since 'Firemaster" is out of stock. I paid a little extra for a 'Wildfire' and ended up with a species. Just getting these picky trees going is an accomplishment and worthy of a permanent spot. Good luck with yours. Make sure to give it plenty of water this summer! John

Really appreciate the photo actually, it's quite helpful. I tend (due -- in my defense -- to relative inexperience) to over-fret re potentially over or under planting... palms or otherwise... I'm hoping there's some knack I'll encounter (probably like a brick wall or neurosis or peace of mind) eventually. Keeping the surface roots (or the topmost ones for that matter) properly covered w/o feeling as though I've simultaneously buried the trunk... perhaps I'm making it more arcane than it ought to be. The advice form someone w some experience really comes in handy. thanks again