For most systems, capping off some sprinkler heads will make the operating water pressure higher. The right way to build a system is with a pressure regulator before the valves, but that can add almost $100 of cost so most people skip it. Without the regulator, pressure will depend on the flow. Most water mains exceed the recommended water pressure for sprinklers. Mine comes in at about 110 PSI. Sprinklers like to run around 40 or 25 PSI. The reason it usually works is there are so many heads on a zone that the valve restricts the flow and brings the pressure down. When you cap off some heads, the pressure goes up. Many valves have a flow control option and if yours does, you can adjust it to bring the pressure back down to the optimal level. If your valve does not have flow control, you can implement your own with a gate valve in series with your sprinkler valve.

this Barraca AC valve operates at 4psi. https://www.dripworks.com/1-baccara-ac-valve?sku=VBAC1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1tGUBhDXARIsAIJx01nDXzeGexhgOlc0UkNV02mX67ZvNUX3EoDZnaQOCDLsM0scMXNcQZMaAiRvEALw_wcB you can also use a 24v 2wire auto return ball valve. https://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/1-2-stainless-electric-ball-valve-2-wire-auto-return/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1tGUBhDXARIsAIJx01mZasOuJpmgSuYwUFlJ7PfDQMDY6OF9lCKlMrCtgdthEbFZuWhby4kaAry1EALw_wcB#description Im trying to decide betewwn the two myself right now.

Actually, after futher review of what happened, it was maintenance that possibly (kinda sorta) contributed to the water leak. The day before the leak, I was doing maintenance on my washer and dryer. I was cleaning the lint from the dryer vent. Also, I was cleaning out the washer tub. I think I must have moved the utility sink a bit and caused the pex supply line that goes to the sink to move a bit, maybe causing it to loosen and then the heat and water pressure built up and popped the hot water supply line out of the bottom of the faucet connection. Either that or the rubber o-ring just gave out from the heat and water pressure. So, I changed both lines to the steel braided type that I have on my washing machine supply lines. This should hopefully prevent any further issues. And, yes, live wire oak, although you seem to assume I do not do maintenance around my house, I do indeed regularly perform maintenance around my house, to include: flushing the water heater twice a year, cleaning the dryer vent, cleaning the gutters, cleaning and servicing my water softener, changing the carbon and sediment filters for my well water, prepping and staining my deck, lawn/landscaping maintenace, maintenance of lawn equipment (riding mower, trimmer, blower), maintaining and cleaning of pellet stove, maintenance on two automobiles....etc...etc...etc... I guess I have to add inspecting supply lines to that list. And, yes, brickeye, I could not agree with you more. Maintenance is less work than paranoia......that is why I try to do as much as I can around my house to avoid the catastrophes..... thanks. mm

what it sounds like is a blockage on the inbound side of the valve. I would assume the valve is seperated from the other valves of the system since no others are affected. what I suggest is taking the valve apart and flushing the lines. if that doesn't clear the trouble it may be necessary to probe or dig up the line back to the blockage.