v1rtu0s1ty, I don't have a second meter so I can't compare that cost for you, but that sounds reasonable as far as plumbing work goes. I would suggest that if you are having someone install a new meter for you that you go the extra step and have them plumb a direct connection you can use for your irrigation instead of(or in addition to) a hose bib. If you look a few posts back you'll see me discuss the benefits of increased flow from a direct connection as opposed to running off a restrictive hose bib. Look inside one of the faucets on your house and you'll see how tiny that opening is. You may be cutting your GPM potential in half, limiting your entire system's design. While you're at it have them install a backflow preveter for you. These can be bought at Lowe's for as little as $40. That will keep fertilizer/pesticides, etc. from being siphoned back into your home's water supply. Yuck! I have some valves installed at the spot where my water connection is made, then a long length of pipe runs around the back of the house to another set of valves. So all valves should run off the same water connection/backflow preventer. That looks like the right pipe. I'd recommend not going below 3/4", and 1" if you can afford the cost of the pipe, connectors, etc. It also comes in different pressure ratings. I think 100psi and 160psi. The 100 psi is easier to bend and insert fitting into, but isn' appropriate for use where the pipe is going to be under constant pressure. Use the 160 psi stuff for those situations. Example, the pipe that runs around to the back of my house is constantly under pressure so I used the higher PSi stuff. Design the system after the second meter is installed. You need to test for GPM and also find the static pressure. Once you know those things you can start to figure plcaement of your heads. Different heads will throw water different distances depending on what your pressure is. The heads should have a little chart right on them that tells you how many feet of throw you'll get at various pressures. You'll need to take into account pressure losses from your pipe runs and connectors, backflow preventer to figure what the actual pressure a the head will be. Go forth and make rain! check out www.irrigationtutorials.com by Jess Stryker for lots of info.

If you decide to use PVC, please bear in mind the different classes and schedules of PVC pipe. When I installed my own irrigation system, the very helpful (and very rare) irrigation expert at Home Depot said to use 1" all around the system, and I did. I've had a few pressure problems in the zones that are the greatest distance from the meter/backflow. Later on I got a Texas irrigator license, and I do a few repairs and upgrades. Here's the deal: the Home Depots in my area carry only schedule 40 PVC. Virtually all of the installations that I've run into are Class 200 pipe, which has a thinner wall and a greater interior diameter, allowing less PSI loss and lower water velocity (which is good) at a given gallons-per-minute flow. At least by Texas law (and the state velocity/friction loss charts), 13 GPM at 1" schedule 40 PVC is not allowable in a design, while 1" class 200 pipe is fine. I'll bet this varies by state. Keeping the velocity low puts less stress on the valves and heads, resulting in fewer failures over the long term. In my area, class 200 is available only at irrigation distributors. I prefer Irritrol controllers (Rain Dial, etc.) because they are well made and very easy to program and reprogram. Regarding Funny Pipe and other brands of thick poly swing pipe, consider using a swing joint for each head, especially if the heads will be in high-traffic areas, like along a sidewalk or curb. You can buy these ready-made. I make my own (for repairs) with two 1/2" male thread to barb elbows, and two 1/2" male to female elbows, and a length of Funny Pipe. A little silicone spray helps start the barbed fittings into the poly. This combination allows a full range of movement. I leave the threaded connections fairly loose and flexible to allow for adjustments while covering the hole, and to maintain some degree of flex when the head is stepped or driven on. There is probably a lot of friction loss through these four elbows and the the poly pipe. I've never seen friction loss charts on these parts, but I know that they work very well. Hope this helps.

In my opinion what is of utmost importance is to do business with a quality installer who has built a good reputation in your area, check references and see if their customers are happy with the job they've done for them. Minor differences in product quality will be irrelevant if you get a poorly designed, poorly installed system and a contractor who will not provide support if you encounter problems. Around here there are many hundreds of people who bury irrigation products in the ground but very few quality irrigation professionals who are here for the long haul. I use Hunter rotor heads, Toro spray heads, Irritrol valves and usually Toro controllers depending on the application. Hunter rotor heads have been consistently good for me for many years whereas Toro heads have had various problems over the years as have some of their valves while the Irritrol valves have performed nearly flawlessly. I base my controller choice on the size of the system, location of controller installation, and the user who will be operating it as well as other factors such as special features. These choices are based solely on my own personal experience installing as well as several years spent handling warranty issues for the largest supplier in the NorthEast. Most companies offer similar warranties, these can be viewed at their respective websites. I have very limited experience with residential Rainbird products so I cannot comment on them.

Hi rj, You might ask this lawn type question in the lawn care forum. There are some questions to be answered to get a more detailed answer. Do you have a mini orchard and you want grass to go in between your trees? I'd use mulch instead of grass or a nitrogen fixing ground cover, but if you must have grass then there are many types of grasses. Centipede grass is excellent (finer than St. Augustine), but takes some time to grow in (sprigging method fastest) and uses less water. Since Centipede will grow so slowly an interim grass like rye is planted to give the green look but dies out when the centipede crowds in. In your zone, fescue (uses alot of water takes shade well) is a winter grass and bermuda is a summer one. Bermuda browns out in winter and is over-seeded with rye to keep the green look until warmer weather; while Fescue struggles in the hotter weather (if not shaded) and needs more water. There are other hybrids (Zoysia for one) that have varying qualities (finer or coarser feel). This discourse was to wet your grass appetite. It is not easy being a weed, I mean grass. Have fun. Aloha.