As I continue to educate myself on irrigation, I find that many are changing the diameter of the pipe as they go down the zone.... so 1" to the first head, then 3/4" to the next few heads, and 1/2" to the last head. Using the black flexible poly pipe will most certainly make installation easier (especially in the NE area where we hit a lot of rock), but I would like some advice on the tradeoff between running the same diameter poly pipe vs. changing diameter with PVC. This also asks the question...does the black poly pipe come in various diameters? If yes, can you provide a link to the supplier?

Regarding the zonal fertilization topic, I was thinking of a lower maintenance option to laying down fertilizer manually with a spreader. Fill a tank with water soluble fertilizer, set the concentration, and forget for the season. The following is a link to such a product. http://www.mrdrip.com/ezflofert.htm

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Thanks,
NewEnglandJohn

I installed my own system and my research also showed to go with Hunter rotor heads, Toro pop up spray heads, and Toro controllers. I used pvc and funny pipe to each head. Too many issues here with failing connections on the poly pipe and I only wanted to do this once.

As for pipe diameter, better to err on the large side so I went with large 1" for most of my system.

Unless you are a commercial site, don't worry about injection systems... not worth it imo.

Ewing is a good supplier.

I put in a home system with over 2000 ft. of PVC. It includes pop up sprayers, rotor sprayers, and drip systems.

After reading everything available from Toro, Rainbird, etc. figured they were all good and used Toro heads because they were readily available and offered great flexibility. I also used 2 of the 12 station Toro controllers because I have 18 valves.

Other brands were similar and I would be comfortable with parts from any of them.

I took a class in irrigation design (4 hours) and read every book I could find or order from the public library and reading the free guide available at

http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/sprinkler00.htm

I started and finished the job with very good results. I used 1" PVC from valves to heads with reductions at each head to 1/2" risers. The 1" pipe gives me 13 gpm while 3/4" pipe would only give 8 gpm. Pressure is the same. I bought the water pressure and volume gauges from Toro and have used them several times. Renting the gauges would have been a little cheaper but I like having them around for any future alterations and testing necessary.

I rented a trencher but it only cut 3-1/2" trenches that I had to widen manually because of the number of pipes in my system. It was not self propelled and it was a mistake to rent one that was not.

If you rent one, get one that is self propelled. The smaller ones are very heavy and must be pulled every inch of the way around.

I also ordered the free irrigation design from Toro and it was very helpful. Made a few modifications of my own but their design was very good and fast too.

dmullen: where did you take the 4 hour class? I used irrigationtutorials.com succesfully in my previous house, but it was a small flat lot, and I have numerous questions pertaining to my much larger, extremely sloped lot.

Ideally, I'd like someone to design for me, or at least check my design for errors that may be obvious to a professional.

I took the class at a community college water conservation garden on a Saturday morning (Cuyamaca College in El Cajon).

They offer different subjects just about every Saturday. I have also taken composting, pruning, and several other classes.

Designs offered free by Toro, Rainbird, etc. are very good.

Just submit a sketch of the part of your lot that you want to irrigate and they will design it for you and give a detailed list of things you need to buy right down to the right number of fittings etc.

The graph paper etc is part of a small kit they offer at Home Depot, Lowes, and other places including on-line.

It took them a week or two to get my plan back and was better than what I had designed. My lot is irregular and my sketch not exactly right so I had to alter a little of their plan but not much. It really works well. I was also worried about 90 degree turns reducing pressure etc. but it did not seem to have much effect.

The most surprising thing I found was the large difference in water volume gained by using one inch pipe all the way with no loss in pressure. Still does not seem reasonable but it really works. Someone in the class said it had to do with hydraulics. I took their word and am glad I did. It allows more sprinkler or drip heads per line.

If you decide to use PVC, please bear in mind the different classes and schedules of PVC pipe. When I installed my own irrigation system, the very helpful (and very rare) irrigation expert at Home Depot said to use 1" all around the system, and I did. I've had a few pressure problems in the zones that are the greatest distance from the meter/backflow. Later on I got a Texas irrigator license, and I do a few repairs and upgrades. Here's the deal: the Home Depots in my area carry only schedule 40 PVC. Virtually all of the installations that I've run into are Class 200 pipe, which has a thinner wall and a greater interior diameter, allowing less PSI loss and lower water velocity (which is good) at a given gallons-per-minute flow. At least by Texas law (and the state velocity/friction loss charts), 13 GPM at 1" schedule 40 PVC is not allowable in a design, while 1" class 200 pipe is fine. I'll bet this varies by state. Keeping the velocity low puts less stress on the valves and heads, resulting in fewer failures over the long term. In my area, class 200 is available only at irrigation distributors.
I prefer Irritrol controllers (Rain Dial, etc.) because they are well made and very easy to program and reprogram.
Regarding Funny Pipe and other brands of thick poly swing pipe, consider using a swing joint for each head, especially if the heads will be in high-traffic areas, like along a sidewalk or curb. You can buy these ready-made. I make my own (for repairs) with two 1/2" male thread to barb elbows, and two 1/2" male to female elbows, and a length of Funny Pipe. A little silicone spray helps start the barbed fittings into the poly. This combination allows a full range of movement. I leave the threaded connections fairly loose and flexible to allow for adjustments while covering the hole, and to maintain some degree of flex when the head is stepped or driven on. There is probably a lot of friction loss through these four elbows and the the poly pipe. I've never seen friction loss charts on these parts, but I know that they work very well.
Hope this helps.

i would like to get about 65 ft of fuuy pipe to go in a 3/4 pvc under cement driveway

richard,

See Toro's webite for Funny Pipe:

http://www.toro.com/sprinklers/pipes/index.html

don't recommend it for what you want. But what the heck give it a try. let us know how it goes.

Aloha

We have use irrigation carefully and by hyegiene for protection againast some disease and parasites that may transmitte disease through the water

i did sprinkler system for my new house last spring. 2 zones for 3000sf lawn and one drip zone. the only resource except this forum i really used was http://www.irrigationtutorials.com. when my system was complete i sent the guy thank you email for very well written tutorial. he actually answered couple questions i had via email. my system worked great for the whole season. cant wait to turn it back on again. dont bother with toro or rainbird tutorials, they are not very detailed. i used rainbird parts, all from local HD. spent around $500, instead of $3500, which was the cheapest quote i got.
i got some images from building process here:
http://aurhaus.blogspot.com/2010/04/sprinkler-system.html

yes this happen to me too i don't know what to do with it
hesi - hesi exam
http://www.nationalnursingtesting.com/

PVC systems are a thing of the past. They are very restrictive when it comes to service, changing landscapes, digging, etc. Poly pipe is the way to go. Using a pipe puller with Poly pipe is the best way to do it. You should use 1" poly pipe for the whole system, with each head connecting via funny pipe. Use the crimp clamps, not the screw clamps. Using a quick torch on the poly makes installing the push fittings a snap, also decreases chance of leak. Valve manifold should be made using poly pipe, not PVC. Use three clamps at each manifold connection though.

Hunter I-20's are the best rotors. Rainbird spray heads. Avoid using variable angle nozzles, instead use standard nozzles (quarter, half, full, etc.) when possible. Rainbird valves are the best as well. Irritrol funny pipe is my preference. Hunter PRO-C controllers are the way to go, very realible and simple to use.

Also, ensure your zones are as symmetrical as possible. This will ensure equal water distribution.