I don't know that I would recommend any permanent planting there. It is likely to encroach on the existing narrow pathway and to conceal the fact that this is actually your front entry. Instead, consider improving the hardscape that has already been started. Replace the cement stoop with a larger, attractive granite or blue stone step. To broaden the pathway and make it more safe, lift/level/supplement the flagstone so that it runs from wall to wall. Add a bright blue bench and a few classic, ceramic containers filled with annuals or inexpensive junipers to make the area inviting. Call it done.

hi Capecod, did not know about the Toros, thanks, but I would rather stick with Rainbirds. Don't really know if I can get Toros in my country - south-east Europe, btw. Anyway, are the 15CST from Rainbird not same kind of thing with the ones from Toro ? They are 4'x30' too, just dont know if they have the 25% reduction screw, but I guess they all have it nowadays. So i just space those central pieces 30' appart ? (or whatever the distance according to my pressure is)

"Pressure treated wood" is a catch-all label. There are many different types of "pressure-treated" wood, such as CCA, YellaWood, Wolmanized, Top Coice, etc, all done with different treatments, and all with different brand names. Some are even approved for organic use. There are a number of lengthy discussions here about this issue. Whether or not there is any leaching into the soil all depends on the brand used by studies show that even the old arsenic-type treated CCA woods (banned in 2002 and cannot be sold to the public) have minimal leaching - even less than some of the natural woods like cedar can. And the claims that the plants will then uptake these leached treatments, since they aren't water-soluble, defies the very nature of plants. So it boils down to the individual's choice for what to use with the proviso that they be informed of exactly how their wood choice was treated and should be cared for. But a blanket rejection of all so-called "pressure treated" isn't fair. Dave

You can also add in extra water emitters for higher-water needs plants. I have a limited number of zones I can break my beds into, so simply changing out one type of emitter for another works fairly well. For example, instead of using the drip lines for your squash and tomatoes, run a regular (non-emitter) line directly to the base of the higher water use plants with a larger emitter on the end (1-, 2-, 4-gallon per hour, depending on how often/long you have your system set to run). All of my beds have one large half inch hose running the length of the bed, which I then adjust by adding groups of in-line emitters (for things like spinach or lettuce, carrots, etc), or separate 1/4" tubes with drips or sprayers at the end (for the larger plants, usually one line to each plant), depending on what I'm planting each season. I also have shutoffs on each bed, so my plants that don't like as much water, I can just shut irrigation off for awhile separate from the whole system. I'm not aware of a lot of resources on "how to" this irrigation stuff, outside of learning the general water/space requirements for plants and planting them as "like" groups as much as possible. Unfortunately a lot of "how much and for how long" relies on your personal climate and soil type, so there's going to be a lot of experimentation and learning how best to work things for your situation. It's definitely a little steeper learning curve than just letting the rain take care of it most of the time!