Extreme Newbie Getting Started

12 years ago

Hi All,

I know nothing about irrigation systems but I'm about to pay somebody to install one. Not good! While I've tried to get some quick schooling on the art and science of irrigation systems, I must say that my attempts to learn by lurking on your conversations or going to manufacturer's sites to figure out what I need is not helping me get up to speed fast enough. So I ask: would you be willing to help a total newbie get clear on some some basics? I hope so! Here's my deal:

I'm in a NYC, attached townhouse. At this point, I'm seeking to irrigate only the front garden beds which, altogether, account for less than 300 sf. More specificially, the beds are located in three separate areas: A southern border plot that is approx 10' x 18" and pictured on the left (roses and viburnums are to go here) and a center middle plot that is 10' x 14', pictured on the right (a Magnolia tree and shade-loving ground cover are here): {{gwi:328432}}

Lastly, there is a rear, middle plot that is 5' x 7' in size. That area is for two hydrangeas, a rose climber, a peony and a few day lillies: {{gwi:328433}}

The photos are mainly to show how the three plots are separated by an L-shaped concrete pathway system. As such, the irrigation system will need to start at the rear center plot --where the water source is to be located. However, the water lines must then be run underneath the concrete pathway that separates the rear and center middle plots as well as the under the pathway that separates the middle and border plots. (Because these pathways are all access areas to the house, I can't run the lines above ground because of the potential for trip hazards).

So far, I think what I want is a soaker hose irrigation system, with a 3-zone timer and a rain sensor. However, I've also been advised that I might want to install a drip line system using something other than soaker hoses, or a sprinkler system. Honestly, I'm totally confused! Bottom line, I'm looking to get the best watering system for a small area of 3 zones, without breaking the bank. In short, here's my question:

Given the size of my plots, what I'm attempting to grow, the hardscape issues, and the limits of a relatively modest pocketbook, what type of irrigation system would you suggest and what specific components do I need (including recommended products) to realize this plan?

TIA for your help!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (5)

lehua49
12 years ago
martha,

My $0.2 worth is 2 items:

1. Have three licensed landscaper/irrigation guys give a quote. Tell them all the same details for what you want to do. When that is done, post the information for the three quotes here. The critique will then commence.

2. Go to irrigation store or any hardware store and find an irrigation knowledgeable person and he will fix you up with what need. Post back here with what he sold you and we will suggest how to install. I assume you are installing the system yourself.

Decide whether you want drip or sprinklers. I would recommend sprinklers as the least expensive system with the least amount of maintenance trouble. Great pictures; that really helps. Tunneling under the sidewalk takes patience but it can be done. You will disturb the planting on either side for the tunnels(digging access). Aloha
marthavila
Original Author
12 years ago
Thank you for your response Lehua13. Here are a few more things I want to share about my project:

1. No, I'm not installing this system myself. Because I'm paying someone else to do it, I'm quickly trying to get up to speed on what might be best for my situation so that I can intelligently discuss the job. At this point, I've gotten so much conflicting information, I was hoping for some expert advice by members of this forum. IOW, a bit of wisdom from folk who have no skin in my game, so to speak. :-)

2. I had one irrigation specialist come over just before I started this thread. He was heavy pushing lawn sprinklers and told me the job would cost me $1100. When I challenged that price and told him I had been thinking about soaker hoses, he dropped his quote all the way down to $300 (for labor and supply of the soaker hoses but no other components.) He claimed that the other components he would recommend (Hunter Mini Klick Sensor, Toro Lawn Master II and Orbit Water Master Timer plus 2 1" female valves) would cost me more than $300. However, when I did a quick check on eBay of those same items, the total amounted to nothing near such a tall price! The combo of the contradictions in his quote and that little bit of pricing research is what persuaded me to post my questions to this forum in the first place.

3. I don't know whether I want drip or sprinklers because I don't know what is best for my situation! From what I'm told, drip would be just fine for my project because the area to be irrigated is so small (less than 300 sf) and is closely planted. In fact, with respect to the last factor of close plantings, I'm hearing that soaker hose might be best of all. Also, because this is a rowhouse configuration, I am concerned about the reach and spread of the sprinklers into my adjacent neighbors' yards. Yet, a garden designer, and the one irrigation guy who has submitted a bid thus far both started off with suggesting sprinklers . . . as you have. Interesting.

Two other irrigation specialists are slated to visit the site in the next two days. Depending on the results of those consultations, and if I'm still confused, I may post back here. Thanks again!
Related Discussions
Newbie Wants to Get Started
Q
Comments (5)
Go for it! Just don't skimp on the riding mower. Some things to think about before buying the rider... -Try to get a hydrostatic transmission instead of the standard shift. this will save some time mowing, easier to operate too. -look at the different types of hydrostatic trannys, some are a hand lever, some have foot pedals. My JD x300 has 2 foot pedals, forward and reverse, smooth smooth smooth. And it makes mowing a bit more enjoyable if you can hold a cold beverage in one hand and the wheel in the other. -Foot pedal lift for the mower deck. Again, the more you can use your feet the less you use your hands. Right foot for forward/reverse. Left foot to lift the mower deck. Left hand to steer, right hand for the frosty beverage. -Get a 42" deck instead of the 38", don't go for the 48" with that size yard. 48" decks usally have 3 blades also instead of 2. If you decide to get a bagger, then you'll need the one with the vacuum for the 48"...no need for this. -Cut Height Increments, the smaller the the better. Some models have 1/2" increments, some have 1/4" increments. This does make a difference. For me, 4" is too long, and 3.5 is a bit short due to some of the uneven terrain I have. 3.75 is normally what I use. -If the brand of mower has the option for mulching blades and a mulching kit, get that also. Mulching blades save time mowing. You don't have to stop and empty bags every few minutes. It is also beneficial for the lawn by returning important nutrients and organic matter back to the soil. Be aware though, there are some mowers with mulching decks. These decks do not give you the option for a bagger. The regular deck with a mulching kit comes with mulching blades and an insert to plug the side discharge. You can remove this if you want to bag one day, maybe leaves, or before a cookout to make the grass look real neat. -Low radius turning is key when maneuvering around corners, trees, and flowerbeds. I opted for a 16" radius, pretty nifty. There are lower turning radius mowers, but the price goes up along with it. Another reason to test drive the mower before buying. -Electric PTO clutch. This is one good feature. Most low end mowers use a mechanical system to engage the mower deck. What that means is the belt that transfers the power from the motor to the blades is loose when not engaged. The operator then needs to push a lever that moves a pulley in a way to tighten the mower deck belt. When the belt gets tight, then the deck blades turn. This can cause a lot of stress on the belt and through normal use, you'll be changing belts annually. With the electric clutch, the belt is always tight. the operator then pushes a button on the dash of the mower which engages an electric clutch. This is the same idea as the AC unit in you car, well exactly the same. Very low belt wear. -Where do you live? Does it snow? Would a small plow or snow thrower attachment be an option? If so, then you would want a mower with a more rugged frame and a twin cylinder engine for more torque. Trust me if you can plow the driveway it saves more time the a snow thrower. -Test drive them...like you would a car. Seriously. Go to the dealer and sit on it. The ask the salesperson to test drive one. go forward, backward, turn in circles, figure 8s, etc. Play with the deck lowering and raising. If the salesperson says no, then go somewhere else. -Don't get fixated on one mower, take the time to go out and test drive several brands and models. I started looking at the Huqvarna mowers. Tried the new Cub Cadets since that's what my dad had from the 70s, the old ones were great. I didn't care so much for the new ones. I ended up buying a John Deere, not the ones sold at Home Depot or Lowes, but the next line up, the X300. It was a bit more expensive than I wanted to pay, but it had all the features I liked. It rides great too, at least for me.
...See More
Getting started (Seed Newbie)
Q
Comments (5)
chaz, thanks for the reply. Yes, i am aware of the self-sowing of 4-o'clocks. this will be my 3rd season with them. and i also found they do not transplant well -- since i found some yellow seeds, I'll plan the 2 colors accordingly. I'm going to try wintersowing this year (once i get my seeds in early Feb [errrrrr ... next week]) here are the seeds I've ordered or have on hand: marigolds 4-O'clocks (yellow & fuschia) Blue Morning Glory 2 types of wildflower mixes (i'll direct sow these) Lavender Sun Flowers (velvet queen & Skyscraper) Bright Lights Cosmos Blue Wave petunias For the north side, it's 55ft in length - so i have A LOT of space to fill, but I do have ferns. When we moved 5 yrs ago I took them from my old house, and they are starting to spread nicely, though a few have died. I usually do impatiens... but i'm looking for perennials. OH i also have those orange day lilies. I have a few Lily of the valley, but they don't seem to be doing well. the first batch, 4 of the 6 bulbs died and Spring Hill replaced them. so i shall see this spring if they survived. (had tons at my old house) I've also planted a dwarf bleeding heart... it's shorter than i thought it would be, but did spread quite a bit the second year. I've looked at the astilbe, (i could do a few colors) but I'm not sure yet. I'm thinking about some creeping wintergreen - but again, not sure. I wanna do it all in one season - but i'm taking it year by year to see what works and what doesn't. Hopefully with the seeds i'm getting, most being perennials - the back property will be beautiful for years to come without much work. thanks for all your input.
...See More
Newbie wanting to get started with figs
Q
Comments (6)
Hey Bob, I'm going to be in AR in april. I might be able to visit. You don't have your email activated on your gardenweb profile, so no one can contact you. Update your settings or contact me. Thanks, Little John
...See More
Newbie hoping to get tomatoes off on a good start
Q
Comments (10)
Thanks so much for the advice. So it sounds like I should definitely not put them out this week, which is what I was thinking. Next week when the lows are in the mid 40s and sunny daytime temps in the mid and high 70s, do I put them out in the WOWs? I guess where I am confused is I thought with the WOWs you were supposed to be able to put plants out weeks before the last frost date. Is this just not the case? I read somewhere it is supposed to keep the temp inside the WOW about 10 degrees warmer. If I need to wait until night time temps are truly in the 50s, that will probably be in June. So in the meantime would I need to pot up the plants? Last year I definitely planted after the last frost... probably around the 1st of June, however I used no protection on them at all. Also, I received them at a later date so I was not responsible for keeping them alive until they went in the ground. ;) Great link Betsy, thank you. And thank you for the explanation on measuring soil temps. I have a probe thermometer... but 6'? My bed is only 1' deep. CharlieBoring, maybe next year I will try your suggested varieties. :) In regards to your comments: Temperature - Do the WOWs count as protection/covering them for the night? Sunlight - my raised beds are definitely on the low end of sunlight. I think they get 6 hours, but not more. I don't know how I messed that up when selecting the location however I miscalculated somehow. :/ I can't move them this year, however depending how this year goes for me I might try to move them next year. The 2 tomatoes I am putting in containers however I can move and I am looking around the yard for a place that gets more sun and that my husband will find suitable (he is a bit picky about it, which is the reason my beds are on the side of the house). Thank you again for all the advice, I really appreciate it.
...See More
lehua49
12 years ago
MArtha,

Looking at your nice garden area pictures. PVC pipe and sprinkler which can be adjusted down to almost a dribble if needed will give the least cost as well as low and easy maintenance(access to heads) over time. The system will go around the perimeter only and irrigate inward. There are several low flow heads that irrigate small areas well.

Your drip tubing will be within the planting area and if you have a problem with it(soaker hoses are prone to clog) it will be very disruptive to your plantings. Looking at pricing on Ebay is misleading. A far better source is a local hardware store retail prices. Your installer would most likely pay wholesale prices but pocket the difference for himself and rightly so. Add 50% to your total to get a reasonable cost installed. I recommend you dig a hole in your plot somewhere and fill it with water let it drain once fill it again and record the time it takes to drain again. Let us know here. Find out your faucet pressure(psi) and flow rate(gpm). Fill a 5 gallon bucket and time how to fill. Post the results here. Then buy a pressure gauge for your faucet(hose connection) at a hardware store(about $15) and check your pressure at the faucet. This check will also help with checking how well your house pressure regulator is doing. Do you have a list from the contractors? JMHO Aloha
marthavila
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks again, Lehua. This is clear advice that will surely help me better explain to others just what it is that I want/need in an irrigation system. Thanks also for the advice on the soil drain/water retention and water pressure tests. I'll definitely post back here to let you know how this all turns out!!
ToroDesignCenter
12 years ago
Hi Martha,
I would be happy to design an irrigation system for you. looking at your photos, your areas are established, I would recommend drip irrigation, specifically Blue Stripe Drip 1/2' hose with emitters. Emitters are installed every 18 inches, if you need closer spacing, you may add emitters where you need them.
The completed design will include a bill of materials and the irrigation layout. This is something you can install yourself and save money without the need to hire a contractor.
Look forward to hearing from you.

Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb

Extreme Newbie Getting Started

Comments (5)

lehua49

marthavila
Original Author

Related Discussions

lehua49

marthavila
Original Author

ToroDesignCenter

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Extreme Newbie Getting Started

Comments (5)

lehua49

marthavilaOriginal Author

Related Discussions

lehua49

marthavilaOriginal Author

ToroDesignCenter

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

marthavila
Original Author

marthavila
Original Author