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Parts for Rainjet irrigation valve

12 years ago

My lawn irrigation system utilizes Rainjet valves. I found out that they were bought out by Toro some years ago. Does anyone know where I can source parts for the valve? I have a slow internal leak, and suspect the diaphragm. Thanks! Pic at this link: http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/mulestang/For%20Sale/?action=viewÃÂ¤t=valve.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful:

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Comments (7)

lehua49
12 years ago
Mule,

How many valves comprise the manifold? Aloha
Mulestang
Original Author
12 years ago
There are 6 zone valves on the manifold. I'm hoping I don't have to rebuild the entire manifold with new valves, just because I can't source a diaphragm!
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That link goes to photobyucket and there are two sort videos there plus other stills which I hope you can access. If not I'll try and post them separately. Obviously i haven't done this before. But on with the story. It turned out that the drain valve (an irritrol 700) even when operated manually was exceedingly slow in closing the door. At about that time I discovered that I would have to use special solenoids with a battery operated controller. The whole idea was to do this on the cheap with left over and scrounged parts and it was starting to lose some of its appeal--especially as some controllers only worked with their valves or so they said. Fortunately, I discovered a new on the market low pressure timer that works on zero pressure. http://www.dripworksusa.com/store/btimers.php#TLP It's about half way down the page. I built the door using a piece of hardware cloth sandwiched between two aluminum screen door frames and then covered with a sheet of aluminum flashing. Friction caused by the moving rods that support the door gave me the most trouble. I used threaded rod and it would have been better to have bought steel rod and threaded the ends myself. I ended up inserting coppers sleeves in the wooden disks that close the tops of the tubes and fitting 1/4 inch plastic irrigation tubing over the threads. With a bit of grease it works like a charm. I'm quite pleased with how it has worked out but it was only possible because I already had most of the materials. Waterouzel
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It's hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like a Lawn Genie valve with built in vacuum breaker. The vacuum breaker is the part that broke, not the actual valve. Vacuum breakers just prevent dirty irrigation water from being drawn back into the pottable water supply line. Like Coho said, it should show some sign of manufacturing defect if that was the case. Water hammer or would more than likely be the culprit. That sudden impact over and over again can eventually weaken the plastic causing it to break over time. There are two options, either replace this valve with another one of the same type, or install a normal irrigation valve and also install a Pressure Vacuum Breaker on the main line between the point of connection and the first valve on that line. Curtis Here is a link that might be useful: EvergreenSprinklers.com
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I don't know if the valves came with knobs and the installer stole them...somehow I doubt that. Never gave that part a lot of thought, actually *smile*. Pliers are fine with me. I suspect that I can open the valves up, but without specific instructions with a diagram, I never know if I can get things put together as they are supposed to be.. I'm currently working on getting a repair guy over to replace the valve, but he's as elusive as most contractors. Doesn't seem to answer new calls unless he's idle, apparently. Not a lot of irrigation system repair guys in my area of the world. Anyways, not sure what I'm going to at this point. I don't want to take the valve apart myself unless I have good instructions and a replacement valve (lesson learned from my spotty past history trying to fix plumbing problems). I guess my next step is to find a replacement Irritrol valve. I think that they just screw onto the riser pipe, and then there's the pressure reducer and Y-filter, and of course the waterproof wirenuts *smile*. Details, details. .
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It is important that the backflow preventer be higher than any outlet to prevent siphoning. All irrigation systems have zone control valves downstream of the backflow preventer so I cannot see how installing a hand block valve would be a problem. If you are running a hose uphill from the valve you would need the backflow preventer to be higher than the highest point you want to irrigate.
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lehua49
12 years ago
Mule,

Your picture looked like it was not easily feasible to replace one valve at a time. How old is the manifold? Will the other valves start to have problems after you fix the leaking one? Can you live with the leak? If possible build a gravel sump that the water can drain to and leach into the soil. Otherwise it would be easier to replace the whole manifold and configure it to be able to replace one valve at a time. You would have a new manifold with no problems that may surface for a good length of time. Depends on your system's age. You may try removing the diaphragm, check for debris, clean and reassemble. Here is a link to a "How to" for a diaphragm:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6522537_replace-diaphragm-sprinkler-valve.html
There also utube vids as well. JMHO. Aloha
Mulestang
Original Author
12 years ago
I removed and cleaned the diaphragm, but the leak persisted. I took the old diaphragm to a irrigation supply house here in town. They were able to match it to a replacement, and it now works. Problem is, the replacement diaphragm is no longer in production, so I bought a few extra. My manifold system is a mess. The valves are so close together that you can't cut one out and replace without disecting the entire manifold. So, when the next valve fails (and a diaphragm can't fix it), I'll be replacing the manifold and updating the valves. Is there a particular brand you recommend?
lehua49
12 years ago
Mule,

I don't have a preference but I am sure others have discussed brands they hate or love in past threads. To me, the cost usually dictates quality in this case. When the time comes, configure your new manifold with the ability to replace each valve separately. If you want to know how to do that let me know. Glad to read you were successful. If you weren't, I would replace the spring with a new diaphragm to ensure a tight seal of the diaphragm (these are usually included with a diaphragm repair kit). Aloha
HU-465860655
3 years ago
I have a Rain Jet system that was installed in 1978. I need a 1 inch T with 1/2 riser connection port. Can't find one (or More) anywhere. Please help.
PRO
MrHIrrigation
3 years ago
if you cannot locate the proper T at a sprinkler supply house or a store like Home depot you may have to resort to a 1" x 1/2" reducing bushing. they make them in both threaded or slip x thread so you should be able to adapt things to your needs.

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