I got my soil results this morning. Of course I just fertilized yesterday with 47-0-0. Should I go with something like 0-0-28 or 0-0-50 from Lesco? By my math 12.5 lbs of 8-0-24/1000 sq ft would be 3lbs of K/1000 sq ft. Is it OK to apply that much K at one time or should I spread out it's application?

I really like your extension office soil test format, very easy to read and understand. The bar graph says it all, you need lots of dolmetic lime and potash, same thing the recommendation tell you. To a lessor degree you can use some organic matter, but if this is for a lawn you are OK just mulch mow and that will take care of itself. The tricky part is with the 3-1-4 ratio of fertlizer they are suggesting. No manufacture makes such a ratio which means you will have to buy something like 15-5-10 and supplement with a potash product like greensand.

aipa, I'm sorry - I made an error in wording my post, as evidenced by your reply. To (some) lasagna "purists", it would not be a 'true' bed without paper (in some form) - even though layer-type of bed-making has been done for thousands of years (terra preta is a very old example) without paper per se. But to purists, I also apologize in advance, for any misunderstanding. I did not mean to imply that paper was not recommended at all - just don't completely block essential under-plant drainage, and blueberry roots from easily penetrating the paper. Remember that your clay soil does not drain well to begin with. These are common 'issues' with lasagna beds made by folks who do not research the technique adequately for the plants they intend to grow in such bed. Although blueberry roots are fairly shallow (in relation to the mature height of the plant), they still need VERY good drainage, and the roots will need to anchor into the soil below the lasagna bed for stability on windy days. Your light-weight bed mix is not going to offer a lot of support - and should ask about staking the plants initially? Paper is good. BUT in this case... In the 'style' of lasagna bed I'm referring to, the paper is not laid in traditional thick layers (to block growth penetration from under the paper Long-Term), but rather it should be finely-shredded first, to deter growth from underneath while allowing plant roots above to more easily work their way down through the matted paper layer(s). (yeah, I know - but I'm just an 'unconventional' kind of guy...I actually check stuff like that). The paper layers kill grass by suffocation and lack of photosynthesis, and IMO the paper layers have served their purpose when the grass is dead, which does not usually take all that long. Not much nutrition in paper for plants, but microbes love it. Blueberry roots are probably stronger than your grass - unless you have bermudagrass (or the like). I have bermudagrass that can penetrate 1" cinderblock or a full Sunday paper in a few weeks). If you have 'strong' grass - solarize (black plastic) first - or consider the use of a carefully-applied (paint brush) herbicide. If you don't do chemical herbicides, organic ones are available too (more research).' I recommend application of elemental sulfur before you begin building the bed with paper. Sulfur does take time...And the more you 'work it down' into your clay soil, the better. If you don't herbicide or solarize the grass - for just the size bed you're considering - I'd take a hoe to the grass first. Take out all you can (you can't get it all). Either way, then apply sulfur, OM and very coarse (river) sand, then till it all under. Since this is for shallow-rooted blueberries, not worth the effort to double-dig, but just make sure that the entire raised bed has sloped drainage. Trench rainwater water away from the bed if needed. Then - paper away, but shred the paper as best you can first. If finely shredded, standard thicker layering. If coarsly shredded, make more, and thinner layers, with OM between the layers. Plant after last frost in spring. After your lasagna bed is completed of course - and let it 'settle' for at least two weeks before you place a containerized plant - and watch soil height - don't allow roots to become exposed. And if it were me, I'd mulch the plants with 2"-3" of well-dried lawn grass clippings. Your clay pH is 'OK' down deep. Not as low-pH as it "should" be for "optimum" growth - but not that far off, either. With only a few plants, you will be able to give them special care (foliar sprays - more research). But whether your peat/sand-based lasagna bed material is going to be purchased as a mix, or 'made from scratch', you should test (litmus strip; or pool test kit; etc.) the 'soil' pH as you build the bed to ensure 5.0 pH or lower if you want a good first crop after the 2nd year. If you buy bagged mix that states a low pH - don't trust it. Takes only a few minutes to test it. Find out. Add more elemental sulfur if needed (wheelbarrow/hoe). If you make you own mix - test every wheelbarrow batch. Remember to water the ground, and layers of shredded paper before putting anything on top of each paper layer. If possible, use a pump-up sprayer (coarse spray) with a filtered (paper coffee filter is OK), well-mixed (paint sprayer & electric drill) solution of sulfur with water (that was previously pH-adjusted (pH Down) to 4.0 BEFORE sulfur was mixed-in. Then you will have given your blueberry plants the 'best shot' for their future in underlying clay soil. Robert

Rhododendrons and azaleas are members of the Ericaceae, or "lime-hating" plants. They are commonly called acid loving, but they can't tolerate too much acidity any better then alkaline soil. These plants typically want a pH between 5 and 6. Your pH is 7.3 which is alkaline (not acidic). Hence the lime recommendation is zero. If you want to grow rhododendrons and azaleas you could alter the pH with powdered sulfur. Your report doesn't say this but a Clemson Extension report (http://hubcap.clemson.edu/%7eblpprt/lowerpH.html) recommends using 4.0 pounds of elemental sulfur per 100 square feet in your situation. This is 1.5 tablespoons per square foot. Your Espoma Soil Acidifier is elemental sulfur and gypsum. This is a good product for rhododendrons and azaleas. Since it is only effectively 20% sulfur, you would need to use 5 times as much of this as powdered sulfur or 20 pounds per 100 square feet. I can't give a tablespoon equivalent since the percent numbers are based on weight and not volume. Your magnesium levels are good which is beneficial. Your nitrogen levels aren't stated, but the recommendation is fairly normal since Nitrogen must be added periodically. With rhododendrons and azaleas, nitrogen is obtained by replentishing the organic mulch periodically. Since you are building up the soil, don't use any nitrate fertilizer. Nitrates are common in nitrogen fertilizer but suppress Mycorrhizae which are fungi that help the roots take in nutrients, especially phosphorus which your soil is sadly deficient in. Your potassium levels are normal. Your phosphorus levels are very low. Rhododendrons and azaelas require normal levels of phosphorus for general health and flower production. Fortunately phosphorus levels can be raised with rock phosphate. The N-P-K levels on fertizers are percent by weight. So 20 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizer is 1 pound nitrogen, 2 pounds of phosphorus, and 1 pound of potassium. 20 pounds of 5-10-5 fertilizer per 1000 square feet would be ideal, or 2 pounds per 100 square feet. Espoma's Holly-Tone fertilizer is a good rhododendron and azaleas fertilizer, but it is only a 4-3-4 fertilizer. You would need to augment it with phosphorus. You could use 25 pounds of Holly-Tone per 1000 square feet, or 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet AND 30 pounds of Espoma Rock Phosphate per 1000 square foot or 3 pounds per 100 square foot. Alternatively you could use a raised bed. This is much easier to manage since it is independent of the native soil underneath. In areas with alkaline soil, this is the most common way to go. When preparing a raised bed use good garden soil mixed with conifer bark dust and peat moss to get a good acidic soil with lots of organic matter and good drainage. Another worry, if your soil is alkaline, is your water alkaline also. If it is, then you best irrigate with rain water. This can be accomplished by collecting rain water from downspouts from a roof. I hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.