Wow, thank you all for your advice! I had a feeling about the idea of planting them close and twisting the trunks together, couldn't settle it in my mind, so I won't be doing that. But I did think it would be pretty - 2 colors from one tree. Thanks for the link, Ken Adrian, I'll check it out as soon as I post this. I've always added a handful or two of well rotted manure to whatever I'm planting, mixing it in well. Oh well, I should learn something new from this . . . And Gardenapprentice, none taken. I like the idea of a D.W. on each side but the yard is just too small. Maybe after I get it planted, I'll post some pics. We planted a white D.W. in the front yard, probably 18-19 years ago and it seems happy, no signs of disease so far, but it is in full sun. Brandon, thanks for your well thought out points, and I can see these would end up being a problem. I live in mid Alabama, our summers are hot, long and humid. Tornado3800, thanks, and I have seen grafts, and thought that maybe the 2 trunks would eventually grow into each other, but I don't want to risk losing either one so I've decided to plant just the Akatsuki. The place where I'll plant it is in full sun until shortly after 12 noon, then it's in shade until the next day. It's in a well drained part of the yard. I've met and still live next to some of the previous owners of this property, and our whole yard, before they built the house, was a big veggie garden, for many years, and the soil is still pretty good. So now I have a good plan and know what I need to do. Thanks you guys! I'm off to read that link, Ken! Nancy

I agree with Ken. take a section out the root of the first tree. I've had to do this a couple of times. Both look like red-silver maple hybrids (Autumn Blaze most likely), and as such will be prone to surface roots unless aerated soil is very deep. And yes the tree in your last photo may very well be too close to your drive. I'm sure the roots have already made it to it. One thing most people do not know is that concrete drive will attract water to the underside of it, and as such will ALWAYS be damp underneath (this from a Civil Engineer friend that did his Master's degree research on concrete). Once the tree roots find it, they will go after the water. So you might be wise to move or replace. Could also make a thin saw cut every year or two, to a depth of a foot or so along side the drive to make sure it's not damaged. Lastly, if that is one of the hybrid freemani maples, it will begin to choke out your lawn in a few years. If you decide to replace, then people here will gladly help you with the choice. SOME Maples would be fine, many Oaks, and a slew of other possibilities. Arktrees This post was edited by arktrees on Tue, Apr 23, 13 at 14:35

i am not willing to rely on your guess.. we need a picture.. or you take some leaves to the county extension office.. once FULLY ID'd .. then we deal with the problem.. we dont start using chemicals.. until we are sure ... all that said.. leaf damage on a recently transplanted tree .. transplanted out of season. is VERY common ... and not indicative of anything but the stress of shipping and planting ... ken i am presuming transplant on these words: nursery had over-mulched our tree at the trunk so instead removing all the mulch I dug up most of the mulch at the trunk to let it "breathe". -->>> clarify otherwise ... Here is a link that might be useful: how to post pix

Rooting Dogwoods are best done as hardwood cuttings during the winter. The cuttings should be true to name, and be pink. Most growers plant seeds but growing dogwood from seed the seedling won't be true to name and will usually bloom white. When the seedlings are about 3/16 inch in diameter you can bud or graft the pink bud or sion to the parent tree. That is how you get a pink dogwood