I've been price and quality shopping for bubble and while awaiting free samples from U-Line, experimented with ordinary bubble wrap and rubber tipped curtain tension rods, and the test results were conclusive. Tension rods will hold the bubble wrap in place between the polybars, even under the curved roof of my Cross Country, with no clips, tape, hole drilling or adhesieve messes. By running it between the polybars, I'll leave them free for whatever I want to mount on them. The 24" wide bubble fits between the polybars and behind the shelves, electrical, water and drip lines, so if any of the bubbles are damaged they can be easily and quickly replaced without disturbing the shelving I will also be hanging on the polybars. I also found that by taping shadecloth to the top of the bubble wrap, I can hang it at the same time as the bubble and it holds in place nicely. Yes, I know the aluminet is probably more effective if hung outside, but ease of use is a factor for me too. The samples arrived from U-Line, and their extra heavy is just as clear and even more insulating than Charlie's. Twice the bubble depth, the same nylon reinforcement, and a lot cheaper. 500 ft: $128.00, + shipping. So, before any of you order bubble in any longer lengths, do check out what's available from U-Line. Look for the Heavy Duty and if you don't believe my report on it, just ask them for a sample and they will send it to you, quickly, and for free.

Greenhouser, Who are you asking? If you are asking me I don't yet have a completed GH. My is under constuction, but when finished it will be a "Longmire" LOL. It is homemade from PVC pipe and EMT conduit. It will not be large, 6.5 feet wide by 15 feet long and the height is still up in the air. LOL so to speak. I am trying to make it high enough for at least a 6 foot door on one end. I am now going thru the "how am I going to vent it" stage. I want mine at much for the summer as the winter so I am really interested in anything that will keep it cool. It gets really hot here and my greens (lettuces) are bolting like mad. 1eyedJack and the Dawg BTW, Longmire is a common name in East Tennessee where my father was from.

I have a Kraftmaid frameless line (since discontinued) installed in 1990. High-density 1" particleboard with laminate veneers (interior and exterior) thicker than what is used nowadays. Having a lot of experience with particleboard bookshelves in the last 35 yrs - we have something like 6,000 books, a lot of them seriously heavy art and history books - I knew this was no problem as long as the cabinets were no wider than 32". There are different qualities (as others have pointed out) of plywood, particleboard, and MDF. The Kraftmaid cabs were a very good quality, so I had confidence that I would have no problem with sagging shelves. The cabinets have been perfect. In one base corner Lazy Susan cab one of the hinges finally loosened - I have a very bad habit of leaning on the door as I bend down to get something out! My handyman took off the door, plugged the hole with quick-set epoxy, redrilled it for the hinge and popped the door back on. No problems, solid as a rock ever since (5 years ago). The shelves are rated for 75 lbs. I have Lazy Susan base corners and pull-out pantry units, all heavily loaded, no problems. Had a small leak in the sink cab for six months and didn't find out till we replaced the whole faucet. A tiny quarter-sized piece of the laminate bubbled up slightly, no cracking though. Sink cab was unaffected otherwise, and in fact you can't see the flaw, you can only feel it. I love these cabinets. I put dishes away wet without worry. They clean up faster and easier than anything I've ever owned. An added advantage was that when we put in a bank of 20x16' picture windows, the UV increase was a nasty surprise. Destroyed the flooring and killed the refrig in less than 10 years - but laminate has very high UV resistance, unlike wood. Pure luck! I'm seriously toying with the idea that when we go to resell, of installing an IKEA kitchen and taking these cabinets with me. They're better made than the St. Charles cabinets I checked out at HD's Expo two years ago.

raee, I'll share with you what has worked for me for placement of "the line". After the failures previously mentioned, I decided I needed to be more proactive to "help". When trying again at a new place, after the optician made the measurement and started to write it down, I asked where the line was. The response was "I put it at the point most people find comfortable". "Will I find it suitable for me?" "Yes, you probably will" "Please draw a line on the lens (the plain lens put into frames before sold) so I can see where it is" "You don't trust me?" "I neither trust you nor distrust you, I want to see where it is". Line is drawn, I put on frames "It's too high" "You don't want it much lower" "Please put it lower" New line is drawn "It's still too high" "It can't be much lower, you need enough lens at the bottom for the progressive pattern" "Are you saying it CAN'T be lower at all, or it can't be much lower?" "It can't be much lower" "Fine. Put it lower and let me look" (what I was doing was checking out the field of view for distance viewing) "Okay, that's fine" "I think it's too low" "It's fine. Please use that" It was perfect. I've done it the same way ever since (but haven't gotten new lenses in the last Covid year). I start by having the optician measure the distance down from my cornea to where the line is on my existing glasses. Here's the thing. What works best for me when using progressives, and changing to close-up viewing, is to keep my chin high and look down with my eyes. If you turn your head down, you're then using the distance corrected upper part of the lens and reading will be difficult. . Good luck to all.