All Plywood box worth the 15 - 20%?
pdubs
15 years ago
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cheri127
15 years agokompy
15 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (21)I know who the professionals in here are. I've also been using this forum for over five years. You, petey_racer, also know who's who. I don't know how long you've been here. I think you're new since my release from MSP. davidro1 probably did not. So "a bunch of people" very vaguely told him, without explanation, that he could not do it. Nobody said whether it wouldn't work, or whether it was a code violation, or whether they had any basis to their statement. When someone I don't know claims, very vaguely, that something I have asked will not work, I believe I am entitled to some semblance of a hint as to what their statement is based on. Yes, if someone with valid qualifications tells me no, they are probably right, but I still might want to understand why - and in any case, I should not be required to assume that anybody who replies to me in a forum I'm not a regular of must be a professional. It could very well be another person with even less knowledge/qualification than myself. If I asked a question, and you gave me a vague answer ("no"), I too would expect more. It is not fair to jump down someone's throat for wanting to understand an answer, and there is nothing wrong with QUESTIONING an answer from an unknown (TO THE ASKER) source. OP: Can I do this? REG1: No REG2: No REG3: Maybe RANDOM: No OP: Maybe? REG1: No, now get the hell out. Way to build a community. "Here's your answer, short and sweet, now go away."...See MoreHelp needed....furniture or plywood box for cabinets??
Comments (1)Doesn't really matter which product is used as long as it's used properly in a well constructed box. You could have a 1/2" plywood box that was put together with a little glue and staples and that would satisfy the "plywood" crowd. If you compare it to a box that is made from 3/4" furniture board well glued and fastened with dowels or special screws then I'd say there is no comparison. The "plywood" crowd would stick there noses up though. Another thing to pa attention to is details like hinges and drawer slides. You can get a 59 cent hinge or one that costs $3, a full ext. slide can range from about $9 up to $25. These can make as much a difference as what kind of sides your cabinet box has....See MoreCabinet Boxes: Particle Board vs. Plywood
Comments (19)I know this is a little late but it may help someone in the future. I work for a cabinet company and our in-house line comes standard with upgraded plywood boxes. See here: http://www.citycabinetcenter.com/lotus-cabinetry.shtml AND they are on the lower scale in price. The drawback is they are 'what you see is what you get' (color & style). So if you shop around you may find some like these or if anyone is in San Diego come visit us! I hope you like your new kitchen! Here is a link that might be useful: City Cabinet Center...See Morecabinet construction - plywood box v. particle board
Comments (29)I seem to have gotten confused on the Shenandoah construction thicknesses. For one, sides are 1/2". So disregard whatever I noted if you're considering this line. Funny, I'm looking over these nearly 40 year old junkers that are still standing. They were even uninstalled and shuffled around 30 years ago. The cheap wood grained laminate doors had been replaced. The sides and back seem to be a 1/4" particle board type product. Some of it also looks like luan but is painted and might be particle board. One shelf is loose and I can see the particles on the box side. Particle board 3/4" shelves chipping along the edge but strong. It seems to be solid 3/4" framing for the faces and hanging rail. They are still standing and doing their job! The side panel on the sink base has popped out and it's really bad construction otherwise. The boxes were painted and doors replaced so they don't look as bad as all that. The painted raised panel replacement doors have held up well for nearly 30 years. They look to be solid wood. The only real damage to the finish is on the raised panel edge of the two drawer fronts under the counter. They've lost finish and are chippy because the counter's drip edge doesn't project out far enough. I'm very surprised to see that situation on a lot of store display installations. The cabinets are just about even with the 25" counter edge. That's bad news for finishes. I'll be getting 26" counters for a good drip edge to protect the finish below. Right, the finish will probably not last 30 years and I'll have to deal with repainting whatever I get. I doubt the stains these days hold up that long either. A lot of them look layered and baked on like the paints to me. But hopefully the cabinets themselves will be decently built and still holding together well. I don't know why that would change unless someone was hanging on the doors or overloading areas with very heavy items, as livewire mentioned. The older builder type homes from 40-50 years or so ago seem to get there. They can just look dated at this point. Maybe they all do this but Shenandoah is calling their mdf type cabinets 'engineered wood' which I think is misleading since it makes it sound like standard construction is plywood....See Morebrunosonio
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