All depends on how your floor system is constructed...joist size, span and how spaced. Also, Ditra can only be used for stone installations over wood when the floor system is double layer construction. You're going to have more than 3/8" when you're done with any tile installation. You have the thickness of the tile, the 1/8" thickness of the Ditra and any thickness the thin set motar layers will add to the formula. You will probably come in at about 5/8". Get what you want...if it means ordering a different wood product from a different source, then maybe that is what you may want to do. Lots of engineered flooring out there. I don't do enough of the stuff to give you brand suggestions, however Mirage, Mercier, Andersen are just a few to look for. Look at what the big box stores have and then find independent flooring retailers and see what they have. Lots of stuff is made overseas (China), so be aware and informed as to what you may be buying. Some folks are happy with engineered and some are not. Although color matching is pretty good these days, Lowes should not have shipped you product from different lots. Have you been to the Schluter site? Here is a link that might be useful: Schluter Ditra

> "furniture board" AKA mdf MDF and furniture board are not the same thing. In cabinetry, you will find furniture board used for the carcase and MDF used for door panels. MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) is a homogeneous board made from wood fibers. Furniture board is the same thing as "particle board" (known as "chipboard" outside North America), and is made from larger wood chips. Particle board comes in many grades, from outrageously shoddy through very good; quality cabinets use the very good stuff. People get way too hung up on the supposed virtues of plywood over furniture board. In reality, with appropriate construction methods and proper installation, either can be used to create cabinets that will last decades. The biggest real-world difference I can think of is weight - plywood is significantly lighter than furniture board; upper cabinets made of plywood are easier to install.

I upgraded to all plywood on my American Woodcraft. We chose for some to have finished sides and others not to. the choice was based on the placement of the cabinets, as the one is the middle did not need finished sides since you would never see the sides. This is assuming you mean outside. I did also chose to have finished sides inside one cabinet as it has glass doors, but not inside the other cabinet. I hope that helps.

IF you have a choice go with a shorter lower door 39 or 36 so the upper units are more usefull. That is a pretty good price without knowing the specifics. I still am betting the companies you mentioned you will be checking next will be more for most of them. You do not know for sure till you check it out. Ask that the units be built in longer sections if possible up to 8' long horizontaly. That will finish off a truly custom look. I priced a custom kitchen using Bridgewood Advantage Cabinets for 66 lineal feet using wall cabinets 60" high yours would be 54". I had a hood that was 84x84 in it with spice rack towers It would have been awesome! I did not get the job. My customer was the builder of the home and not the owner. They had a falling out and I did not try to get the job going around the contractor that introduced me to the owner. I believe loyality will take me further in life. My dealer cost was $29,500. I put every pull out possible in every cabinet where drawers were not wanted. I had bean drawers base trash can pot and pan organizers that were chrome wire racks which I think are the right way to do it! A 8' horizontal section the wall cabinets were 78" tall resting on the countertops with drawers. Each wall had fluted fillers on the the sides or all cabinet runs. The works. My cost per foot was $446. That would be for plywood construction dovetail drawers soft close rails soft close hinges on all doors raised panel door style full overlay all uppper cabinets were stained interior with glass. All roll out trays in base cabinets were soft close full extension rails. They were maple wood with glaze. If I had sold them for a 50% mark up I would have been at $669. If I had scaled back the interior accessories I could have got it to the price per foot easily as all the cabinets I used were 6" taller then yours and you did not mention a massive hood that cost me at least 15% of the total cost.