I thought I'd toss in my $0.02 to the mix. Whenever I need to "patch" a wide gap with JB Weld, I cut a small section of fabric from an old pair of my wife's panty hose (get her to donate an old pair, one pair is probably all you'll ever need) that is a bit larger than the defect or damage that needs fixing. First you need to clean around the edges of the hole down to bare metal. Place the swatch of fabric an inch or so away from the edge of the hole and tape it down with duct tape or masking tape. Stretch the fabric across the hole and tape it down on the opposite side, do the same in the other 2 directions. Mix a small amount of JB Weld and apply it along the entire length of the edge of the hole using a popscicle stick or comparable tool, pressing the JB Weld through the fabric. Allow this to cure. After that has cured, remove the tape and trim away the excess fabric (not the fabric stretched over the hole) from around the edge of the first application of JB Weld. Mix another batch of JB Weld and apply it over the patch area covering the fabric and overlapping the original application of JB Weld. If you can access the backside or underside of the patch, applying a layer of duct tape or masking tape across the fabric there will make it easier to keep the patch "flat" or level. After thoroughly curing the tape can be removed. To "keep" JB Weld vital after it has been opened, put your tubes into a "baggie" with the dispensing ends of tubes opposite each other and store in the freezer. The sub zero temp practically halts deterioration and you just have to take it out and set at room temp for about 15 minutes so you can squeeze it out.

Thanks for the kind words, and as you pointed out it really all depends on the money.....i was shocked at how well the electrolysis worked. Large pieces of metal, that i thought was solid and wouldn't budge with a screwdriver, fell right off after several hours. You can see the "pits" left over from rust that had "grown" and was solidly attached, giving the false impression of strength/structure. I've got several tools soaking in the tank right now, should be able to fix them up tonight. I realize the deck may not be perfectly safe, meaning if I hit a rock or something it could come flying through a weak part. The area around where the spindle housing bolts is solid, as is most everything (except where you see all the holes). At the very least i learned about electrolysis in undertaking/researching this little repair. Should be mowing in a few days, paint it tonight, maybe get it back together tomorrow we will see.

Actually have used POR-15 quite succesfully on such applications . Sandblasting or a good wirebrushing and cleaning is suficient for application of one coat of this undercarrage paint. Rock hard and has lasted for over 5 yrs. As an alternative magnetic paint inc has a similiar product about 37 bucks for a qt which will be more than sufficient for most application of brushing or spraying . The rhino guard usage sounds interesting also since I have used on may truck bed not sure if it would last as long on this intended usage though , rather extreme lol .

First let's see if we can get your pics to show up: That's an awesome pergola!! When you pour the patio extension, make sure that it is doweled into the existing patio so the two will move together. As small as the extension is I wouldn't bother with an expansion joint, just do it as a cold joint. Personally I would not try to extend the Kooldeck because there won't be a clean transition across the line no matter what and it will probably cost you a lot to get someone out there just to do that tiny area. I would suggest going with a contrasting material, maybe some tile or stone. You could even pour a concrete extension on both sides as well and do a tile or stone border around all 3 sides.