Mission Impossible? Teas in 4 hours of sun?
fogrose
11 years ago
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jerijen
11 years agofogrose
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Mission Impossible: Ferns
Comments (20)So much of "easy" or "difficult" depends on growing conditions. Carlisleliverpool finds "Boston" ferns easy in the UK; I bet folks in Tucson would have a very different view! Since you're Z5, I'll assume your conditions are similar to mine. Dry air is my ferns' biggest enemy much of the year. As a general rule, the thicker and more leathery the fronds, the lower humidity the plants can tolerate. The commonly available staghorn ferns with their big thick antler fronds can get flat out dry in humidity that's low enough to be uncomfortable for us humans, and they sail right along. (But give one to an Excessive Nurturer - i.e. overwaterer - and it won't last so long.) The most commonly available Pteris ferns, though (and there are something like 250 different species, so this is a generalization), with their paper-thin fronds will tend to look ugly pretty fast when the humidity is low. I grow in conditions of very good light (including some direct morning sun), humid summers with cool nights, quite cool winters with low humidity, and I let all but the most delicate ferns dry out a bit between waterings. That said, in my conditions, most difficult to easiest, with some duplicate commonly-grown forms separated out: 1) Adiantum (raddianum & similar sp.) 2) Pteris 3) Adiantum (again...hispidulum and similar species) 4) Nephrolepis (Boston types and curly cv's thereof. Not so difficult to keep alive as difficult to keep looking nice. They need a fair amount of grooming & cleaning up after.) 5) Asplenium (Look for the thicker-fronded species and cv's to be more durable than those with thin, broad fronds.) 6) tie- Nephrolepis (Lemon Button or Kimberly Queen - a little messy, but very tolerant) 6) tie- Phlebodium aureum (syn. Polypodium aureum Some of the crested or fringed cv's are a little touchier. I left my huge P. pseudoaureum dry in the dark garage all last winter. It froze, it died back to ground level, but it came back like a trouper this spring.) 7) tie for easiest- Davallia (..and again, there are many species, some of which I find quite difficult, but I'll assume we're taling about the one most common in cultivation, a variety of D mariesii often mistagged as D. trichomanoides. Easy if you're careful not to rot them. If it gets too dry, they'll go dormant, but they come back out of it nicely. It's not a bad idea to let them dry a little in late fall as they're normally semi-deciduous. 7) tie for easiest - Platycerium bifurcatum (They'll tolerate heat, cold, dry, almost anything but soggy poorly-aerated substrate or prolonged cold/wet. Hey Toni-- how goes it? Still got the large (and beautiful) citrus collection? Microsorum musifolium (Crocodile) is pretty durable (the fronds are used in flower arrangements, so you can tell they're not overly delicate) but they are vulnerable to leaf spot & die back from overhead watering. I know you like to mist but it's not this particular fern's favorite thing. If you are going to mist it, I'd suggest limiting it to times when you know the plant can dry again quickly (like mornings) and using distilled water....See MoreSix hours of sun ... is no fun
Comments (33)hman, I don't have significant intermixed plantings. I could have nematodes but I have never seen them on trees I have dug up. In the majority of cases I would say there is an obvious disease or pest or light issue; one problem I had a few years ago for example was peach scale, that stunted several trees. My O'Henry for example had bad peach scale. The problem is even though you fix a problem the tree can be in a self-fulfilling path of low growth which it can't just pop out of. There is only one tree that I really don't know why its not growing more, its my Black Boy peach. I think the original cause is it got horrible brown rot two years ago, the kind that is so bad that it kills the small shoots as well, and it is very slowly recovering from that. This year it did much better than last year, no big vigorous shoots but at least some 2' ones. So it may have just been from the rot and its taking its time recovering. If you read all of the old fruit books they refer to the "yellows" on peaches quite frequently, something they thought was a disease of some sort. Today it is not considered a legitimate diagnosis. My view is this "yellows" is just this tendency for peaches to runt out under certain conditions. It often results in leaves that are more yellow. Scott...See MoreTeas for Mostly Sunny but not Full Sun
Comments (8)Out of desperation and lack of room in January or February I stuck an Arcadia Louisiana Tea in a spot that gets 3 - 3.5 hours of afternoon sun after 1:30 (and total shade before.) It has actually put out a straight cane already - now less than 18" tall - that has 3 buds on it! The plant is very short - 12"? - and maybe 18" wide, basically still a baby, very green, healthy and happy. I'm amazed. I'm sure no knowledgeable person (nor even a dimwit!) would have approved of this site between 2 oak trees with an arbor between it and the sun. I hope he continues to like his spot. Sherry...See MoreComments: these 4 available teas
Comments (9)Lady Hillingdon grows more like an older HT than a true "Tea". She's more upright and a bit less twiggy. In a friend's Torrance, CA garden, she's usually four to five feet tall by about four feet wide. She grows her against the white wooden fence inside the front beds with the fence between them and her drive. Not that the rose requires the support, it just keeps most growth from poking into the drive. Susan Louise is a MONSTER! In that same garden (just over the rise from South Coast Botanical), she's taken off into the trees like the Gigantea hybrid she is. I've tried her a couple of times in more inland heat and sun intensity and gave up. Her wood is too soft and pithy, resulting in too much sun scald and eventual death. She's very pretty when she's pretty, but she IS a "big girl"! I have never encountered a Devoniensis which didn't want to both chronically mildew and climb. Add as an intense desire for the blooms to ball badly and you get the picture why I never fell head over heals with this rose. Balling and mildew go for Niphetos, too. I haven't encountered a Lady Roberts yet, but if she's anything like Hillingdon, she's probably a good rose. I've always had heat and mildew issues with which to deal, so the Teas I've gravitated to have been those with more colorfast pigments. I have resisted most of them for the same reasons I resisted 99% of the first thirty-plus years of anything Austin...they all turned "buff" within a few hours of opening. If the rose is supposed to be buff or russet colored, that's fine, but any other colors which so rapidly bleach to it are just not worth the space, water and time I have for them. With that said, the "Teas" I've found most pleasing, both for health, bush size and habit, continuous flowering and particularly coloring have been: William R. Smith Souv. de Pierre Notting Mons. Tillier (or what WE grow as Mons. Tillier) General Schablikine Rosette Delizy (the more intensely colored form, forget the pale, bleached out version.) Archiduc Joseph For climbing Teas, I've always found both Cl. Maman Cochet and Cl. White Maman Cochet to be superb. Of course, tastes and mileage will definitely vary. Kim...See Morejannorcal
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