Hi Tim, You probably have a 715. The 712 is a current production machine. It has one gear forward and one gear reverse and a three dog PTO. You're getting the "712" off the side of the transmission housing - it means nothing. A rope pull can be bought from Earth Tools. You could find any engine with a 1 inch keyed shaft to replace the Acme, but you'll need to buy an adapter kit to fit it. The Acme has a very short tapered shaft and the clutch won't fit anything but that. Gator_rider, You need a 1 inch keyed shaft to run a BCS. Even then, you'll need to buy an adapter kit because all Acmes had a very short tapered shaft. Anyway, I wouldn't insult the quality of a BCS with a low quality engine like you describe. You get what you pay for. Hi Postman, Are you planning on dualling up the tires or did yours go bad? If you're planning on dualling, you'll also need axle extensions. Where are you located?

Usually the belt too long (either worn stretched or wrong belt for your type of pulley system), wrong belt (v-notch don't match you pulleys, especially if you got belt not made for LT's,(These belts are usually cheaper and don't work right on LTs), you may have worn pulley bearing, pulley or attaching parts, could be routed wrong, last but not least engine mount bolts or real drive pulley could have worked loose? Why did you replace it? The orginal should of lasted longer than it did if the LT was new in 2009?

Part should be around $50-100. Engine has to be torn down pretty far to get to it. So far, in fact, that you might as well have them change the timing belt & tensioner while they're at it....the engine is due for it (every 60k miles), and if it breaks while running (always does if you don't change it) then the engine is potentially trash....at the very least you'll have to replace some valves. TB will be $50-80 and should incur maybe 1/2 hour of additional labor....but you're saving 5-ish hours of labor by having both done at the same time. Also, if pookems is the typical bubblehead teenage-put-gas-in-it-and-drive female, I'd have this fixed ASAP....if it blows a bunch of coolant out and she doesn't notice the guage is pegged, then you'll warp the heads/block, etc, and trash the engine.

I don't have a repair manual for your engine. That would be the first step - gaining access to a decent repair manual. You might be able to find some information on-line at your local library if they maintain a subscription to a an auto repair service. First, determine if the pintle of the ERG can move. Usually, there is a procedure in the repair manual that will exercise the pintle. This will give you a starting point. If the pintle does not move, find out why. You mentioned that the EGR valve was replaced. Were the exhaust gas passageways checked for blockage when the valve was replaced? Often, these passageways clog and have to be manually cleaned. Remove and plug the vacuum line to the EGR. Apply a hand vacuum pump to the ERG, pull a vacuum and look for pintle movement. If the pintle moves, then next with the engine running at idle, apply a vacuum and as the pintle opens, the engine may stumble. If the pintle moves and there is no change in engine operation, suspect clogged passageways. John_G has given the order of diagnostic tests, but you'll have to have the correct instrumnetation to take the readings, and then, intrepret the results. He's making a point that maybe taking the job to a qualified tech is the thing to do, and that the cost is justified if the problem gets fully identified.