Dawn, the reference at Extoxnet to the soil breakdown of cyfluthrin in surface soils actually reads, "On the surface of soils, its (cyfluthrin's) half-life is 48-72 hours". This instability is due to the breakdown of cyfluthrin by sunlight. If you were to apply cyfluthrin as a soil drench, I assume most of the chemical would be several inches under the soil surface, would not be affected by sunlight, and would have a half-life of 56-63 days and this number is what you would use for a meaningful comparison to the 30-38 days half-life of permethrin.

I have no experience at all with midge but I do think the data you've presented suggests the permethrin soil drench would be the safest and most affective option. If a treatment which promised to be just as safe and affective for japanese beetles were available, I would certainly try it.

I wrote "affective" for "effective", not just once but twice. Not that I'm a great speller but, AAUGH!

In a thread on the Antique Roses forum (linked below) patriciae notes having success using newspaper and mulch as barrier methods, but she applied them over the winter before midge becomes active.

I'm sorry for your troubles, but at this point, I don't know that there is much you can do except to experiment with some of the methods and please report back to us. Good luck. Your health is more important, you might have to be without blooms for this year.

Here is a link that might be useful: I'v Had It!-Spraying Pesticides for Rose Midge

I've carefully read the posts in Diane's link " I'v Had It!-Spraying Pesticides for Rose Midge." There is much discussion about "drenching the soil because that's where midge pupates" The thing that I haven't found addressed is whether Merit drench (or granules) is more effective because it systemic and, might kill the critters as they feast on the tender new shoots, thereby stopping their life-cycle. Does anyone support this theory. If this is the case, then one wouldn't have to worry about constantly drenching the mulch and soil beneath to come into direct contact with the insect, because the Merit would already be in the plant's system ... killing the critters. Nor would one have to spray.

BTW, I had a brutal couple of months with midge last season, that I treated with everything every few days and eventually knocked the midge down. I'm hoping to be more proactive and use far less chemical this year.

I've put down Merit granules and will be watching closely.

There is a systemic action to imidacloprid, but that's not what kills the midge. It is the direct application on the creatures. The repeat application is needed to catch them when they pupate and drop back down to the ground. Even spraying the product on the plant doesn't get them.

A non-toxic technique I've used is to repeatedly cut off the new growth of roses that act as midge magnets--in my case Dr. Huey. But, if you wait to actually see any damage, it is too late to catch the midge.

Since you're a nursing mom, I strongly urge you to reconsider using pesticides.

It's well documented that pesticides are easily transfered to mothers milk though inhalation and skin contact, and passed on to infants (who are particularly vulnerable). No rose loss is worth putting an infant at risk.

Respectfully,

Bill

The thing that made me think-why not trap them IN the ground was a post suggesting putting a barrier on top the ground to keep the midge from going into the soil-not a very attractive alternative-putting plastic sheeting on the ground but you might consider it as it is completely non-toxic. I have wondered if that ground cover fabric is a close enough mesh to keep them out of the ground-the black would not be so ugly. You need to remove the new growth-bag and trash. It is hard to do that but it will reduce the number of offspring-you arent getting any flowers anyway. I feel your pain..

patricia

To effectively control the pupal stage with Merit, it should be applied to the ground and watered in. This minimizes chance of exposure to people and pets and places the material in contact with current and future midge generations, right under the soil surface.

From the research I've seen, it is very important to control the early generations of the insect, since once populations begin to increase as the season progresses much more active control is needed. If faced with the prospect of missing early soil stage control, I would suggest a heavy mulching to interfere with adult emergence, whether combined with the use of insecticides or not.

Another issue that complicates matters is that later in the season some pupae may mature above ground.

As for foliar applications of pyrethroids, reports say that many are effective, but need to be applied every 10-14 days throughout the season, not an enviable prospect.

Here is a link that might be useful: rose midge

I so appreciate all of these thoughtful responses. It helps so much to have folks who share this love of roses to commiserate with. I recognize the names of many of you who posted and really respect your opinions.

Well, my "control" these past years has been bagging damaged growth and minimizing my expectations about how many blooms I'd see, but last year I wasn't as vigilant and clearly the midge have exploded.

Reflecting and researching more today, my gut just won't be convinced to use a synthetic pesticide.

So, that leaves me two products which are approved for organic gardening and have been reported to have some activity against rose midge: spinosad and azadirachtin (active ingredient in neem oil.)

Does anyone have any feedback on the efficacy of one product over the other? I can't seem to find much in the literature...

Thank you all again, Dawn

After just reading the "I've Had It" thread, I need to post. Using the Bayer hose end product which I think is "Bayer Insect Control for Soil and Turf", I have had success. BUT IT WAS TEMPORARY.

I am concluding that I need to really step it up or to SP my roses.

This spring (late March) I have already applied granules which contain Merit and Cyfluthrin. The application exceeded the recommended dose.

The hose end spraying will begin in May and will be applied heavily at 10-day intervals.

Yes, these are extreme measures for a guy who used to call himself an organic gardener. Rose Midge have the ability to quickly recover from major population reductions. It is close to hopeless here. Perennials anyone?

Harry, check your other plants for insect invasions. I had serious infestations of bag worms and web worms. Bag worms killed 2 arborvitae and 1 false cypress. Infestation occurred quickly and spread rapidly. When you kill beneficials, there is nothing to handle the bad guys not affected by soil soaks. It is for this reason that I am prepared to lose all my roses. Prepare yourself with Bt, an organic, low environmental impact insecticide.
Good luck.
Barbara, who may not have a rose flush this year.