Black canes = bad. Brown canes = ?
mehearty
15 years ago
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mike_rivers
15 years agomehearty
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Cecile Brunner, brown spotting on canes
Comments (3)Corn meal is the easiest and most full-proof method of getting rid of blackspot, powdery mildew and even the more serious and debilitating downey mildew. 3 cups regular cornmeal you bake/cook with at the base of each mature size rose - fluff it in the dirt and water the cornmeal in. There's something in the corn meal that will encapsulate mold spores. A fun way to experiment with the effectiveness of this "fix" is to leave all affected leaves on a plant, hit the surrounding soil with corn meal, and watch all new growth come in perfect, healthy and green. It's an amazing show of how well it works and usually impresses even non-gardeners. Corn meal used in spring and a time or two (when you start noticing a problem again with the plant; usually a couple months or longer) will keep the problem from appearing at all. Turns out this works on downey mildew very well. In a yard where several roses had completely died to this fungus, I used heavy doses of corn meal in the fall. We weren't sure how it would work on such a notorious disease, but this spring all growth is very healthy and not a trace of powdery mildew even with the warm days/cool nights of spring. The cornmeal you want is the baking/cooking kind, but you can find this much less costly at an agricultural feed store in 40 or 50 pound bags - split it with a buddy or just keep it 'round to use a couple of times a year if need be. The great thing about corn meal is when you see a problem starting again, you just add a bit more to the dirt....See MoreLarge cane growing from small cane
Comments (11)I think for RRD, it would have to be a really weird-looking large cane--like a nightmare cane. I occasionally get big and rather soft canes growing after I use alfalfa pellets. I take it as a good sign and an indication of how large my shrub will get when it fully matures. If it is not too much out of proportion, I just put a stick with a notched "V" at one end under the cane to help support it. If it's really badly disproportionate, I trim off about a third of it--but that delays it from blooming. Unless it is really weirdo-looking, I'd take it as a good sign of your rose's future. Kate...See MoreBrown/yellow cane tops
Comments (19)Question. Dear Mike: We haveused black shredded mulch in the flower and shrub garden in front ofour house for several years. After listening to a recent show, I'm nowwondering if it might be part of the reason many of our seedlings don'ttake and my wife's perennials don't come back. If the mulch is toblame, what are our alternatives for preventing weeds while alsodressing up the appearance of the front of our house? ---Michael in Mount Laurel, NJ. Mike: What kind of mulch should I not use? The last 2 years I have usedLicorice Root type mulches, but now I have black spots on my patio thatlook like soot. And what can I do to get the spots off? Thanks, ---Anna Marie, a teacher in Cherry Hill, NJ Answer. I have been warning peoplefor years that wood mulches wood chips, shredded bark, sawdust, andthose increasingly popular 'root mulches' can breed 'shotgun' or'artillery' fungi that shoot tar-like spores as far as 30 feet towardslight colored objects, like the side of your house or car. These sporescan be removed pretty quickly if you get to them right away, says Dr.Dan Herms from Ohio State University: Soak them thoroughly with soapywater for a few minutes to loosen the natural 'glue' they exude, thenscrub them off vigorously. But as we have always warned, once the spores dry they are virtually impossible to remove without destroying the surface they're adhering to. Wood mulches can also slow the growth of established plants and yes,just plain starve new ones to death by 'tying up' the available food in your soil, a process known as "Nitrogen immobilization". Wood is carbon; carbon always looks for nitrogen to bond with so it can breakdown into new soil that's the principle behind composting. Wood mulches take that nitrogen right out of the soil, out-competing your nitrogen-needy plants. And dyed mulches are the absolute WORST offenders; the wood in these old pallets chipped up and sprayed with dye is the worst type for use around plants. Our favorite mulch expert,Ohio State Professor Emeritus Dr. Harry Hoitink, warns that dyed mulch is especially deadly when used around young plants or in brand new landscapes. There's also another problem that occurs around this time of year, when sap filled trees are chipped and shredded and the mulch sits around all piled up. Dr. Hoitink explains that this sap becomes a high-strength vinegar, with a pH as low as 2.5; no plant can survive such an acidic attack. So doubly beware of wood mulch with a sour, vinegary smell. Heard enough bad things about wood mulches yet? (We'll post links to Ohio State and Iowa State horticultural bulletins about these and others dangers with this Q o' the week.) So what SHOULD you use? Our new mulch maven Dr. Herms (Harry is retired and wants to pass his well-mulched torch) warns against using one of my old favorites, straw. He says that straw is carbon-rich enough to cause some of the same plant-food stealing problems as wood,and that it often contains seed heads that can cause weed problems(which we've warned about in the past) AND attract rodents that will then look for other trouble to get into on your landscape (which I hadn't thought of before). He does think highly of my personal mulch of choice, shredded Fall leaves but doesn't think it's the absolute #1 choice. Both he and Harry feel confident that, after many years of active research, they have uncovered the BEST all-around mulching alternative. You ready? It's compost. Now for years, I've been telling people that compost is a great soil improver, plant feeder and disease fighter, but that it didn't qualify as 'mulch' because it wouldn't prevent weeds or retain soil moisture as well as shredded leaves. WRONG, says Dr. Herms. "In a recent study at Ohio State, we kept track of 'weeding hours' for plots that were mulched with either 2 inches of compost or ground wood,and there was no difference between the two," he reports. "Both mulches reduced weeding time to 1/20th of that required to weed an un-mulched 'control' plot." So, solid University research now shows that two inches of compost controls weeds as well as a 'conventional' wood mulch! And Dr. Herms who is not an organic researcher by any means; he used the nasty chemical herbicide Round-Up to kill the existing weeds in his plots adds that compost greatly enhances plant growth, while wood mulches slow it down or just plain kill the plants. He also feels strongly that the look is just as attractive as dyed wood. "I use compost to mulch everything in my home landscape", he told me. "The rich black compost really sets off the green of the plants and the colors of the flowers beautifully. In fact, it looks just like a dyed black mulch but without all of wood's downsides." Unlike wood mulches, you do have to apply to apply a fresh inch or two every year to keep weeds at bay. But Dr. Herms adds that this compost will also greatly limit disease and insect problems in the plants it mulches and improve their overall vigor and root growth; wood mulches,he notes, often have the opposite effect. And, he adds that, "adding fertilizer to plants mulched with compost had no effect at all; the plants simply didn't need any more food." Plants mulched with wood needed lots of added fertilizer. So there's absolutely no excuse for risking your landscape, your home's siding, and your car's paint job with wood mulches. Every large garden center has big piles of compost they'd be happy to deliver, just like wood and bark mulches. Just remember to keep ALL mulches six inches away from the trunk or stalk of any plant; any mulch will rot a plant it's piled against. Keep all mulches six inches away from your home as well; termites will use ANY moisture-conserving cover even stones to reach your framing. This post was edited by sam4949 on Mon, Sep 15, 14 at 21:44...See MoreWhat are these red spots on my rose canes and are they bad?
Comments (26)The spots pictured could be nascent canker, but are probably something else. Older rose canes change color in spring, and in the process often look specked and splotchy. Also blackspot fungus can make red spots on the bark--it's the main way that BS overwinters. (The spots do not damage the cane, but generate spores that will splash up to infect the leaves in spring. For this reason, severe pruning will delay the onset of blackspot for a few weeks.) There are probably many causes of red spots. True cankers may start with such spots, but develop into larger areas of dead bark, black or brown, usually with concentric zoning of two colors. Do an images search for rose stem canker. There are several kinds. Spores of fungal diseases are ALWAYS present in a rose garden, so sanitation efforts have limited value. It's possible to do a lot of damage with the pruning shears in a panicky attempt to prevent the spread of imaginary disease or a futile attempt to prevent the spread of a real one. (Fungal diseases take hold and spread mainly on account of very particular weather conditions.) I never prune out healthy wood because of red spots, and my roses have done well for decades. I don't prune out every actual canker, either. The rose's immune system will usually contain the canker until it becomes inactive. A rule of thumb you'll find in older rose books is to prune if the canker has girdled half the circumference of the stem....See Moreveilchen
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