since you have chosen to have the tree removed, Don't forget to consider having the service to grind up the stump and main roots as a finishing step after they have done the removal If you do choose to have them grind the stump and major roots, you should find that should end up providing for much less effort needed to replant in that area a better tree selection. Some tree removal services, when grinding the stump and main roots simply leave all the grinds to naturally decompose after they have racked them and the loosened virgin soil into a chip/soil mixture that they then can smooth and level over the top surface. If you do not want all those wood chips breaking down naturally in that area, simply request for the tree service company to remove at least 50 percent of the chips, but if you have them do that, then you will also need to consider how to mix the fill dirt that chip removal process will cause you to have to bring in to fill the resulting hole or deep depression. If you have them remove the ground up chips and if you end up with a hole that needs to be backfilled, you also will need to consider what to do, and what not to do in your backfilling process with the brought in garden soil. I mean in order to prevent yourself from creating a soggy situation which allows moisture to continually seep in to rapidly or steadily from the just beyond lawn area's virgin soil. If such a condition is not prevented, than the water that flows in will not easily flow back out of the new bed area and the moisture will not evenly saturate back out again into the virgin soil areas of your lawn.

I am 80 miles south of Charlotte. I found a source for a Laurel Oak in GA where I could drive down and pick one up. I have planted the Live Oak and was going to match it with another Live Oak but I think I will plant a Laurel Oak instead. That way if the Live Oak does not make it, I can replace it with a Laurel Oak. If it does make it, I will have two similar looking trees.

ncpalmnoze7: yes the roots definitely need to get well established and that may take a long time or short time depending on a lot of situations... Mine are actually growing very fast for Sabals and are all pushing out it's newest fronds already, i take care of them daily also. That curves Sabal is just a little curved im getting some very tall twisty curvy trunked sabals in spring also. Ralpf charges a lot for curved sabals because they are much more rare and eye catching and are "not your normal straight palm tree" he says... Jacklord- Thanks haha yea im getting many big palms and going to get much bigger, I appreciate all the comments and concerns! -Justin in VB

I shutter to admit that I am involved the bidding of tree trimming along power lines. I don't think there is a state law governing the width of right-of-ways, they vary base on the size/height/number of lines, and are determined at the time the lines are installed via the purchase (or condemnation) of right of way. For our city, the vast majority of typical service lines (the ones going through most neighborhoods) are 20 foot right of ways. This means the power company/city electric department has a total width of 20 feet, and technically they can cut anything within that 20 feet that they deem as "interfering" or "likely to interfere" with power lines. Understand that this doesn't mean 20 feet out from the power lines...it just means that the power lines must lie within the 20 foot easement. Ideally, and most of the time, the power lines lie near the middle of the easement, meaning a tree or limb would have to be within 10 feet of the line in most cases. If all this sounds a little subjective (ie "likely to interfere" is debatable) that is-unfortunately- by design to some degree. Legally, though, a utility definitely has no right to touch a tree or limb outside the right-of-way or easement. To further complicate things, the lines are not always in the middle, which means you cannot just look at a line and come out 10 feet on either side and be confident your tree is in the safe zone. The power line could be at the outside edge, meaning a tree COULD be 20 foot from line and still within an easement, leaving it up to power company to decide whether it is "likely to interfere" in the future. The only way to know with absolute certainty where the easement/right of way is would be to look at your survey or have one done. To answer the question of how the subontractors get paid-at least around here- they all bid per mile of power line. Because that bid would clearly be different for a mile of woodland than a mile of cow pasture, the subs are responsible for inspecting the entire length of the line(s) up for bid and base their bid accordingly. Finally, I will tell you that people often come to City Hall rather than talking to the contractors and ask us not to cut their trees. 80% of the time, if the trees are even borderline or less, we call or go to the foreman and tell him not to cut a certain tree(s). But we also get requests from people who are just unreasonable about it....people who hate tree topping at all cost and say as long at the tree is not actually touching the line we should leave it alone. That just won't fly since we usually only trim every few years. But if your tree is anywhere near a reasonable distance at all-even if it probably isn't the best thing for the power company- they will usually agree to leave it alone. If the OP is worried about them cutting when he is not home or has no warning, I'd consider putting up a small sign saying "please do not cut this tree without consulting property owner". If they see it they will contact you. Remember, at the end of the day they have to answer to elected officials and/or state and federal utility regulators, and none of those like to hear stories about the big power company taking advantage of the little homeowner! Good luck.