Out of necessity (cost)and possibly sentimental value, I rebuilt my dad's 30 plus year old Holsclaw trailer to haul my stepdaughter's and my dirt bikes. There are some shortcomings. My personal comments/ experience: The trailer bed is about 5 1/2 feet wide x maybe 8 feet long(it's outside in the cold right now, so I'm estimating). It's easily wide enough for two dirt bikes if you stagger the wheel chocks about a foot (front to back). You need wheel chocks for carrying the bikes. I made mine out of plywood, but I was out of work at the time and had the wood- my time was free. Making your own chocks allows you to make them to fit the tire widths more closely. The pre-made chocks I looked at were more geared to street bike width tires. However, if you need to transport street bikes, narrow chocks may interfere with the brake rotors. My trailer tilts. I think I would prefer a trailer with a large built-in fold down ramp. However, that vertical ramp may have a large negative effect on gas mileage. Tying down two bikes with four tiedowns each is a pain. I am working on some way to secure via the chocks and handlebars, but I am still working on it. It has a steel bed (not mesh)- kind of slippery now that it's painted. Lots of tie-downs that I installed, plus lots of "slots" in the bed. The trailers that hold two snowmobiles side to side are a lot wider than most tow vehicles- my trailer is only a few inches wider than my SUV. I have driven with wide trailers- it takes a little getting used to, especially at toll booths. A trailer with low sides may allow you to carry gas cans and gear with a little more confidence- driving two hours over bumpy roads to a riding area with a smelly gas can in the back of an SUV can be trying. Always carry a spare tire, lug wrench, and jack for the trailer. That way you'll never need them. Remember to re-grease your wheel bearings every year. Check the hubs (temperature and feel) every time you stop for gas or food. Re-check your load after one mile, ten miles, and every 100 miles. I think that about sums up my experiences so far. Good luck. Ralph

I've framed out sides for two trailers over the years. Mine had angle iron rails about 8" above the floor. My solution there was to make 32" sidewalls out of 3/4" exterior plywood (can't figure out why an earlier replier would use interior ply!) and frame the perimeter with pressure treated 2x4's. space vertical 2x4's about every 3' and toenail all joints with exterior deck screws. As far as attaching the walls to the trailer, you could use your stake pockets by running the vertical supports long enough to utilize them. In my case, I bought J bolts and washers through the bottom framing & plywood to hook onto the angle iron rails. With this connection, I can remove the walls in 5 minutes when I need to. To keep the walls in line, I screwed cleats to the floor inside the walls. To hold the front corners together, you could use L brackets, but I ordered corner braces for trailers from Northern Tools. They're interlocking and secure tightly, but unhook easily with an upward lift on the sidewalls. Hope this helps!

Plumism - the people on Lawn & Garden Tractors Forum seem to know a lot. Could post this there. CDO

**Gary.Where the hell did you get the dual wheel idea from ?** From this comment... **with a twin axle rig you can't see if a tire is flat so you've got to use your jack handle, hammer or piece-a-rebar and thump yer tires every time you stop. Every time.** That is the process you use to check duals. I'm calling bs. that might be true IF both axles are independantly attached to the frame without that rocker peice between the two spring packs allowing the axles to move independantly. If it is built that way, it's a POS anyway. Even a tire on an empty single axle trailer might only have 13 lbs of air out of 30 - 60 lbs it's supposed to have and still appear fully inflated...untill you put your load on it. Same with the brake control. Same trailer, same load, gotta have a brake control. I call bs. Even if so, $40 material and an hours time and it's done. Big deal. Same with the comment about ez lift hitches and added weight. For $200, all he can be getting is another axle, not an entirely different trailer. Same with **If the trailor is not fully loaded you are wasting the capability of the trailor.** You will not find a single example ever of an axle or tire failure because it was underloaded. I bet just about everyone's seen a single axle trailer laying dead along side the road missing a wheel...spindle and all. That didn't happen because it wasn't loaded to capacity. **you might want to talk to my brother about flats and blow outs on a tamdam axil.** Why would I want to? I believe you. Maybe your brother hit the lottery for a million too. That doesn't mean everyone that buys a ticket does. For comparison to your brother's experience, I've worked for a construction outfit for the last 26 years. Got lots of tandom axle trailers that leave the yard daily. There are staples, nails, and bits of wire on the ground where the things are parked. Not to mention the stuff in the road like that your brother evidently failed to avoid one time resulting in the loss of two tires, and then the construction sites. Those are always tire freindly environments you know. Anyway, in all that time, I've seen a lot of flats. Don't remember a single time where two tires went bad on the same side at the same time, much less the front tire causing the rear one to fail. The positives of a single axle, all other factors equal, are it's ease to move around by hand, and the once every 12 years you need tires for it, most likely because the originalls are rotten from old age, it will in fact cost half as much. The positives of the dual axle in this instance are twice the capacity, virtually the same money. Either one will serve the purpose.