I would NOT buy something made in China!! From past experiences from buying Chinese made junk (ever hear of those boats called Chinese Junks?) I'll do without before i have to buy those products!
Now, if you have a place that sells camping trailers, etc., see if they have contacts for utility trailers. Also, those places that sell off-road equipment may also sell trailers like you are seeking!
If all you want to haul are tractors, the open weave flooring is good, but for hauling dirt, etc., the closed floor and sides trailer will be the kind to get!
As for price, you're on yer own there. Just have to decide how much you want to pay, and whether you really need it!
Also, make sure the trailer has a tail gate that will support the load when you drive up on it! Don't get stuck with a flimsy tail gate which will collapse when you drive up on it! And it will have to have lights, chains, hooks, maybe brakes, and all safety equipment for road towing!

I don't know your location, but if you are anywhere in the central PA area there is Worthington Trailers in Montoursville. They make a nice line of aluminum trailers. I've been using one (5'x8' bed) for about 7, maybe 8, years now. Except for the dirt bikes my usage is similar to what you have mentioned, with the occassional trip to the landfill thrown in (I'm cleaning up the accumulated junk on an old farm). One feature about the trailer that I like is that it is very light; if necessary I can easily move it around to mow, etc.

Here is a link that might be useful: Worthington Trailers

shop around. Lowes wanted almost 1000.00 for a 5x8 trailer. i found a trailer dealer about 90 miles from me that had the exact same one for less than 550.00!

i got a mesh bottom one, but for heavy items you may want to go with a wood floor.

phacops,

I've seen the Worthingtons and they look very nice; however, no prices listed on the manuf. website. Did you buy yours from the manuf? Any features you recommend or wish you had? Thanks.

Out of necessity (cost)and possibly sentimental value, I rebuilt my dad's 30 plus year old Holsclaw trailer to haul my stepdaughter's and my dirt bikes. There are some shortcomings. My personal comments/ experience:
The trailer bed is about 5 1/2 feet wide x maybe 8 feet long(it's outside in the cold right now, so I'm estimating). It's easily wide enough for two dirt bikes if you stagger the wheel chocks about a foot (front to back). You need wheel chocks for carrying the bikes. I made mine out of plywood, but I was out of work at the time and had the wood- my time was free. Making your own chocks allows you to make them to fit the tire widths more closely. The pre-made chocks I looked at were more geared to street bike width tires. However, if you need to transport street bikes, narrow chocks may interfere with the brake rotors.
My trailer tilts. I think I would prefer a trailer with a large built-in fold down ramp. However, that vertical ramp may have a large negative effect on gas mileage.
Tying down two bikes with four tiedowns each is a pain. I am working on some way to secure via the chocks and handlebars, but I am still working on it.
It has a steel bed (not mesh)- kind of slippery now that it's painted. Lots of tie-downs that I installed, plus lots of "slots" in the bed.
The trailers that hold two snowmobiles side to side are a lot wider than most tow vehicles- my trailer is only a few inches wider than my SUV. I have driven with wide trailers- it takes a little getting used to, especially at toll booths.
A trailer with low sides may allow you to carry gas cans and gear with a little more confidence- driving two hours over bumpy roads to a riding area with a smelly gas can in the back of an SUV can be trying.
Always carry a spare tire, lug wrench, and jack for the trailer. That way you'll never need them.
Remember to re-grease your wheel bearings every year. Check the hubs (temperature and feel) every time you stop for gas or food.
Re-check your load after one mile, ten miles, and every 100 miles.
I think that about sums up my experiences so far.
Good luck.
Ralph

I towed $30.000.00 Gold Wings on an $800.00 H-D trailer. In one word DON'T!!! It was too short making it tail heavy, the tail wagged the dog and there were no decent tie down points. It was flimsy. Suck it up, purchase a good trailer designed for your needs and enjoy the trip.

I got my trailer from a dealer (campers, RVs, etc) because the company did not do direct sales; I don't know if that is still the case. I don't remember the exact price I paid, but it was around $1000 (but that figure would include tax and tags). It seemed expensive at the time, but over the years I have had no cause to regret the expense. In the same period a friend of mine is now on his second trailer, and I don't think he uses his any harder than I do mine. This seems to be a perfect of example of getting what you paid for. As for any recommendations, I can't think of any. Basically, I make options as I need them for a new use. E.g. I made solid sides for getting stone, coal, and other small loose material. And I have ramps I use to wheel the equipment onto the trailer. The tilt feature was more useful to me than a drop ramp on the back (unless something has changed trailers with that kind of back don't tilt). The trailer tracks nicely no matter what weight is in it. I pull mine with a Jeep Cherokee, with the 6 cylinder engine. When I had the bathroom remodeled I had the contractors dump the old plaster and lath into the trailer, figuring I could take it to the landfill myself. Well, it rained before I did that, and the plaster soaked up a lot of water. The weight at the landfill was 3300 lbs, well over the 2000 lb capacity of the trailer, not to say the jeep. But other than a slow go up the hills and a very long stopping distance, the vehicle and trailer handled fine.

I use a 6' x 10' single axle trailer all around our acreage to haul downed trees, limbs, crushed rock, topsoil, mulch, etc. and pull it with a 1994 Grand Cherokee V6, with no real problem.

I bought the trailer from a business that sells only trailers and truck accessories last year for $945. It has a wood plank bottom, angle iron side rails and a drop down tailgate. I added 32" high side rails of 3/4" plywood reinforced with pressure treated 2x4 framing. I attach it to the trailer's side rails with J-bolts through the walls and hooked on the angle iron rails. To keep the walls from shifting, I nailed cleats to the floor, spaced 2 1/2" from the side rails for the walls to snug into. I also picked up a pair of trailer corner brackets from Northern Tools to keep the front corners together and prevent the sides from bowing out. With the j-bolt setup, I can remove the sidewalls in 5 minutes if or when I need to.

When I told the dealer I would be using it to haul loose material, as well as to occasionally take my compact tractor or commercial mower in for servicing, he recommended against the tilt bed--- His reasoning was that it's hard to put on a balanced load, especially with loose material, and if the weight's too far forward or back, it puts a lot of stress on the hitch. The drop-down tailgate also elminates the need for ramps.

Keep an eye out for a used one (craigslist, local newspapers, penny pinchers, etc). Also look for local websites for dirt bike or offroad clubs.
I picked up a nice car trailer for a great price found on a jeep clubs website ($1000 for a 3 year old trailer, dual brakes with a weight distribution hitch)

Hey Mike_in_kc- any chance of you posting a photo of your rig?