one rule of though here is that fast growing trees are usually week trees. Root systems are in first 17 inches of the soil and go twice to three times longer than the drip line of the tree.

It has been shown that norway spruces regularly exposed to strong winds develop a different cross-section of their major roots. The roots on unstressed trees have oval/circular cross-section while those of stressed trees have a T-shaped cross-section that improves their resistance to wind-throw. Biological systems (and most complex systems, also inanimate ones) develop in different ways in response to consistent stresses. Just as a plant develops a deeper root systems in response to droughts, or grows taller to reach canopy, I don't see what is so unbelievable in imagining how a plant will direct its resources to improve its structure, when repeatedly stressed by wind. What Tom mentioned is, I believe, also responsible for the phenomenon of the Fir Waves... Now, coming to the topic of the conversation, I believe these adaptations will take time to set in, and I think staking would make sense in that light. Also, staking means everything and nothing. I can stake a tree so that its trunk will not move by one inch. Or I can stake widely enough just so it won't topple. These two ways of staking must have completely different effects on how the plant will adapt to wind.

balloonflower, I will be regularily trimming growth before it yellows. florauk, It will be going into a giant container (about 5 times in size) as soon as it is adaquately filled with roots. The mint will be in a south facing window with direct unobstructed sun light for about 6 hours in a day, the rest of the day there will be indirect bright light (Approx 5000 - 20000 lux). I will also be supplimenting CFL light on top of that; a 45W bulb on each plant, which will be on 18hrs/day. This will generate an additional 10000-20000 lux for each plant. As for the winter rest, I'm not sure. If I have to burn it out to find out what happens, then sobeit, but I dont want to leave this plant out all winter and chance its death. Here is a picture of both plants:

Had a similar situation once and got tired of beating my head again the wall... Finally decided to mulch a much larger area beneath the tree and dressed it with a whole variety of hostas ( aside from deer, I've yet to see a spot that will get the better of a hosta...!). Threw down some decorative pathway slabs... About 12" square each with the mulch between each "step". A couple of those cast/concrete semi-circular benches for morning coffee... A decorative, brightly colored wheel barrel (another fun kid-project) placed on its side (as if tipped) with seasonal stuff "spilling". That was my wife's gig... Pumpkins and stuff in the fall... Potted flowers in the spring/summer... Christmasy stuff in the winter. Well, you get the idea... Even the kids got to pick out a garden gnome to tuck in somewhere (only one each and it was fun(ny)... Like you, couldn't do a darned thing with the area and finally figured, if you can't beat it... Treat it like an oasis of sorts