You could build your own for about half, but it's a lot of figuring and guesswork before you get a finished hoophouse.

Would you pay $400 for the convenience?

Have you checked out FarmTek? Thiers include the end walls and door for slightly more. The cover is a 7-10 yr life span.
It's 24 ft but I guess you could leave off the last section.
You can download the instructions and see.

Here is a link that might be useful: Farmtek greenhouse

Thanks guys. I went to look at a sample frame at Rimol's. It does look easy to build myself. They were closed so couldn't ask about their coverings. Their frame looks to be constructed from chain link fence posts. The hoops are 1 3/8" line post. They use a 4' piece of 1 5/8" post buried 3' in the ground, then slide in the hoop and thru bolt. They use 1 3/8 line post for the purlin. 2x6 for side and bottom support. Figuring there is about $250 in frame material, all available at HD. I can purchase a 1 3/8" tubing bender preset to make 12' wide hoops, supposedly makes perfect ones all exactly the same, on ebay. The bender could be had for under $40. The frame looks too easy to pay them for it.

I can take care of the frame, but not at all familiar with what to get for a covering. Would like to get something that will last and hold up to a NH winter. Any ideas? They have a channel to attach coverings, how does that work, would you suggest a better way to attach a covering? Will be happy to hear any suggestions for a better design. I agree with Jkirk, this project should come in around $500 or so.

Really appreciate the responses, starting to get excited. This could be a fun project. Posted some pics of Rimols sample frame

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Pics of Rimol's sample frame.

" I can purchase a 1 3/8" tubing bender preset to make 12' wide hoops, supposedly makes perfect ones all exactly the same, on ebay."

Oops. Be sure you talk to someone who's done that, and isn't trying to sell something, first.

1/2 inch tubing is candy. Easy.

1 inch tubing requires some muscle to bend it, and forms to get it perfect every time. I've done a few hoops for 2 foot wide tunnel covers.

I used a regular pipe bender on a seven foot handle and had to put some effort into it.

The result was nice and of course, strong and durable. But bigger than 1" would get harder by far.

You'd need a full-scale form and a hydraulic powered jack once you got to 1 1/2 inch tubing.

Good luck !

I attached the plastic film to my hoophouse with lath strips and batten tape.

Actually, I used 1" wide woven nylon strapping. You staple through the strapping, through the plastic, into wood.

This prevents the plastic from pulling up against the staple and tearing through.

The other way I know of is to buy these metal channel strips. They come with zigzag metal springs. You push the plastic into the channel, and pop in the zigzag spring. It spreads out and holds the plastic.

That also makes it easier to take the plastic off and replace it without pulling staples.

Do yourself a favor. If you build your own, build in a strong, "T" shaped ridgepole, frame some openings for attic vents, and frame in some vents at the ground level too.

Frame in more vents than you think you need, you can just cover them for now with the plastic until you decide you do need them.

I'm about to take off my 1 year old el cheapo plastic and frame in pop-up windows that run the length of the hoophouse.

The theory is that you can stop heat buildup by either rolling up the plastic when you don't need it or by framing in long window vents.

I can't quite figure out how to build my own roll-up system, but adding vents should be easier.

With the plastic off, add a framework at 2 feet high out of 1x4's.

Then build window casings that fit the framework, add recessed hinges, and put on fresh 4 year plastic. When it's hot, pop open the vent windows and fresh air flows in.

Actually, it would work better to frame in the vent windows at roof level, but that would be at the risk of working over the plants.

I built my hoophouse using 3/4 inch diameter PVC for the hoops. I found that the "center-support" adds considerably to the stability of the hoophouse in windy conditions:

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Have FUN building your hoophouse!

Jkirk,
I'll let you know how the bender works out. I checked thru sellers feedback and didn't see one complaint about them. Worth the $40 to find out, could make life a lot easier :). The 1 3/8" post is 17 ga, would it be that hard to put an arc in it? I'll go with your "T" support for the purlin and long side vents. The end facing my front yard will get some dressing up with T1-11, windows and flowerboxes to match my shed. The other end, which gets more direct sun, I'll stay with poly. I'll also frame in a spot near the ridge for an intake louver on one end and an exhaust fan at the other end. Was also thinking about a knee wall along the sides. This would give room for vents and I could leave the supports higher up to add some straightness and height to the side walls. I was also wondering if the metal tubing will heat up and overtime weaken the poly. Maybe the hoops should be wrapped with a white tape before the poly goes on to keep the tubing cool and prevent abrasion of the poly over fittings and such.

I did see the clips you mentioned, they called them "Wiggle Clips". Wondering just how hard they are to use..lol. Have you looked into the woven poly covering material? Supposed to be tougher than regular poly. Thanks for the suggestions.
Dave

Dave -

For attaching coverings, we've used the batten tape that you staple thru to hold on the plastic (works fine, but get hold of a power stapler, as that many staples the old fashioned way will cramp the hands), lath with screws, and the C-channel with the wiggle wire (aka poly-lock). I love the poly lock & will never go back to the other. On the other hand, 1000' of the batten tape is $40 and the other is a few $$ a foot. We run small GH business, so are replacing covering on one building or another every couple years. Time savings is huge with the poly lock products.

You mentioned the tubing heating - yes, it will heat some & over a long time that can probably weaken the plastic -- but most poly's are UV stabilized for only 4 years max & you'll be replacing before you need to worry about it. We haven't covered our frames before applying plastic & no problems to date with that. Beware of contact with pvc type products, however (especially those that are UV resistant) as they will react with your poly & wear it out sooner.

As for making your own frame, I recommend being aware of the thickness of the tubing wall & the spacing of your bows. Most of the units you purchase should be higher thickness than the conduit you purchase at local hardware store. We have 4 commercial grade GH's that have taken nearly 2' of snow load on top in bad conditions, but one hoophouse we built from conduit for overwintering perennials went down in a heap during an overnight MN snowstorm.

Sometimes the extra $$ is convenience & sometimes it's worth the avoided ulcer. Since most home insurers don't cover your GH structures, you're self insuring your entire investment.....both $$ and time :)

Above all, have fun.....they can be an amazing cure for the wintertime blues!!!!!

Hi davisgardens,
Really looking forward to building this, got a nice picture in my head for a great 12x20 hobby house. The post I'm going to use is galv fence post, same as some local greenhouse dealers are using on their frame kits. Will go with hoops 4' on center. I like to balance cost and convenience :), leaning towards the wiggle wire. I'd like to have permanent end walls so all I would need to replace is the poly over the hoops. Have a plan for one end wall, but still thinking about a permanent clear wall for the other.

Any tips/tricks for installing the poly using the poly-lock? Where to start, how tight to pull, how to use the connectors? Just some basics if you have time to share.
TIA,
Dave

Hi Dave I have always used staples to attach poly, but my old greenhouse is made of wood. My son got one of those benders off ebay and is building me a brand new 10x20 hoop greenhouse, it really looks good. Said his wife want's one now, I watched him bend the pipe, he say's it's easy. I don't know how the plastic will attach to it, but son says the instructions cover this. I'll let you know how he does it.

Dave, My greenhoue uses poly lock and it is far more simple to youse than you can imagine. The channel, while stiff, will conform to your 12'dia curve no problem. I recommend using 1 inch by 3/16th stainless steel self-taping sheer metal screws (TEK screws) to anchor the poly lock to the steel hoops.

Took me far less than a day to install the polly lock channels, both layers of poly AND the shadecloth. it can be a one person job provided there are very light breezes.

My greenhouse is 12x24 steel tube frame with double blown poly roof and polycarbonate twinwall side. Was purchased as kit From Farmtek.com simply becuase all the 'homebuilt' greenhouses looked to me as just that.. homebuilt. and after a couple years thinking and researching, I decided that would be cheaper in terms of labor to just buy the kit. And getting the kit with the heating and ventilation equipment package actually saved me enough to cover the shipping costs
Greenhouse with kit about $2800
Tubing heating is not that big of an issue... but if you are concerned about rubbinh, there are greenhouse supply websites that carry a tape that is sticky on one side and nice and fuzzy/soft on the other to reduce rubbing effects. I would think, however, that if your poly cover is nice and snug, you will not have any rubbing issues. more like to poke and cut holes in poly by accident long before then.

Here is a link that might be useful: My greenhouse

virgo91967,

""all the 'homebuilt' greenhouses looked to me as just that.. homebuilt.""

OUCH! Another stab in the heart for the 'homebuilt' team.

Oh, you bought a kit!! You built it yourself?

The only difference between a "kit" hoophouse and a homebuilt one is sombody big and strong bent the pipes for you.

:)

Hey Chris,,, way to go.. My 10x20 steel hoop greenhouse, slightly smaller than the 12x24 mentioned above and bent using the bender purchased on ebay for 39.00 which came with plans, only cost me $140.00 for the complete finished frame, my son bent 17 gage tubing on the bender like it was putty. The vent fan w/thermostat & louver is from home depot for $49.00, storm door $39.00, heater $129.00, benches $89.99. I'm at $485.00 with only the poly to buy.

By the way I researched those ready made frames and most all of them are between 16 to 18 gage tubing. I'm nearly 80 years old, my son is 59 as I watched him bend the tubing into perfect hoops in just a few minutes, then I read the statements posted here about how how hard to build and junky looking homebuilt greenhouses are, I just got to laugh at them.I worked hard for my money and will not throw it away on over priced goods or anythink that is junky looking either. I'll stack this 100% homebuilt greenhouse up against any factory built any time and keep the $1200.00 plus I saved to enjoy other things in life. I think it's ashame that some have such a closed mind.

GO DOIT YOURSELFERS

Down the road should one want to replace the plastic on a hoophouse can the twin wall panels be made to fit the top and bring it down half way or more and then have roll up sides for venting? Has anybody done this? or give me some links? I am starting off with plastic but I want to be able to change material if I can.

This is old post, but I wanted to share the pictures of my greenhouse. I was in same situation as original poster. I took cactusfreak advice and bought a small greenhouse from FarmTek (www.farmtek.com). My husband and I put it together in one morning. cactusfreak was correct, the directions were clear.

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I think my only regret is that I should have bought larger unit. I have outgrown my greenhouse in just 2 years. lol

Good luck. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Greenhouse Photos

If you live in New Hampshire contact Ed Person (www.ledgewoodfarm.com) We bought our GH (14x24) from him about 7 years ago and it's great! He has all sizes available. You do have to build the end walls but that's fairly easy if you are handy. I highly recommend Ed!

Here is the hoop house I built out of 1.5" PVC. It costed around $250-$300 to build. I used some scrap wood to frame the endwalls. Also, I just use 6 mil plastic that you get at the paint department in any department or hardware store. The plastic lasts me all year and throughout the winter. I replace it in the spring. Not too bad though, $25 a roll and 1 roll will cover this 12x12.

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Here is a link that might be useful: The Pepper Guy's Blog