Let there be light ... on my rear engine sears

16 years ago

Hi all,

A while back i was able to rig a front head light from a Ford Taurus to my little sears rear engine lawn rider. ItÂs a VERY ugly modification - but man-O-man does that light brighten things up for me! I use this unit for pulling carts and trailers around the properties (not as a lawn mower), so I really need some light capabilities on this unit.

But as my brother reminds me - I canÂt use what I've created too readily as this mounted light requires MUCH more current than my little 10 HP Tech engine charging system can deal with.

Basically what will happen after about 5 - 10 minutes of the light running (with the engine running also), the battery will not have enough juice to start the motor up after it has been shut down (particularly on a cold winter morning).

The monster light drains the charged / charging battery - even when the engine is running. The engine only puts out about 1-1.5 amps - and the halogen ford light draws significantly more than that (I think about 10-12 amps).

In order to deal with this situation - I would have to leave the motor running for some undetermined amount of time after I turn the light off - but this is not a very practical solution for me - and I suspect that what IÂve done - is really not a very good idea for other reasons which I have not yet thought of (or discovered yet).

I am looking for a cheap alternative to my freak show lighting system. I recognize (and accept) that I will not get the same capabilities from my replacement cheap-o unit. Hopefully the light is better than my Scotts 2048 ? (The two lights on the Scotts are ... not very impressive, but then again I donÂt mow the lawn in the evening ...) I wish I could attach a picture of my Frankenstein light rig which IÂve created - perhaps giving you a laugh for the New Year...

Ideally I am looking for a small light which:

----------------------------------------------

- can throw a good/decent amount of light

- Mounts easily to the tractor Â IÂm not afraid of drilling a few holes.

- Has low power requirements - so the battery will still charge while the light(s) is on. Or at least not require 12 Amps Â like the ford halogen light does).

- It would be nice (but not required) if I could turn the light so that I could redirect the light to the front or back - or perhaps some swivel arrangement?

- is it too much to ask for one of those fancy blue lights which seem to blind me when driving down the road at night. They seem to be really bright! Are those LED or halogen? Im thinking that those blue units are rather power hungry also Â

IÂm sure some of you have been down this road...

- What have you done?

- What should I avoid?

- What should I consider?

As always thanks for your help.

Everyone - have a happy, safe, and prosperous new year.

Dave O.

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Comments (20)

njdpo
Original Author
16 years ago
Hey guys - would something like these LED replacement bulbs on this web page help me ?

http://www.ledlight.com/detail.aspx?ID=163

they have several different types here - I don't quite know which one (if any) is best for me ...

It sort of looks like I could replace the halogen bulb (in my Ford Taurus headlight ) with a low power requirement LED unit ? (I think thats what its telling me)...

Im not electrically inclined - so I honestly have no idea if this addresses my electrical current requirements problem or not ...

If I take can get away with a significantly lesser drain on my battery - without a significant reduction in Lumens then Im gonna be a happy camper...

Note that my Frankenstein light is very clumsy & ugly - but its so strong that its difficult to part with for the purpose it serves.

Thanks again
mownie
16 years ago
Sorry njdpo, the lights featured at that site are nothing but LED replacement lamps for "dash and instrument panels". The 1 watt and the 194 lamp base configuration number declares that. For your desire to have a "low current, adequate light output" lamp, you will need at least 15 watts of rated output to be useful at all. In regard to a light that can go from front to back mount, consider a magnetic base, white LED "trouble" light. These are available just about everywhere auto parts and accessories are sold or online these days.
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mownie
16 years ago
The "bulb unit" at the link below will provide you with sufficient light (but not like your Monster-osity light) to work by with low current draw. Use the "1156 configuration" as it is a single contact lamp. These are just the "bulbs", you still need a lamp assembly that has the "1156 base" to put the bulb in.

Here is a link that might be useful: LED (Zeppelin it ain't)
bill_kapaun
16 years ago
If your charging system is putting out 1.5A, that's only about 18 WATTS! You won't be able to run a very large bulb without going into "battery deficit".
IF the light doesn't need to be on all the time, you could mount a switch and only use it as necessary. That would help alleviate the problem.
nod702
16 years ago
I use an LED headlamp that you wear on your head takes 4AA batteries and shines a bright light where ever you look. Have a smaller one i use for night fishing. Frees up both hands.
njdpo
Original Author
16 years ago
As it is wired up right now - my monster light is rigged up to an on/off switch - i use it only when needed. Its attached to aprx a 10 foot cord - which also allows me to relocate/set it in the shed and to look for tools, hitches, rigging, etc as needed.

after researching the conversion of amps to watts (Watts = Amps x Volts) I see that you are correct (watts=1.5a * 12volts) equaling 18 watts...

I need to measure my amp output again and confirm what Im getting. I THINK im getting 1.5 amps @ idle and about 2.5 at higher RPMs - so perhaps when im using my new rig I need to make a mental note of upping the RPM a bit. For the most part the 10 HP motor does everything we ask of it - but at IDLE. We rarely use the motor above idle for pulling the trailers and carts around.

Perhaps mownie has the hot ticket - find a 15 watt bulb and increase the RPM a bit in order to ensure a small charge back to the battery (when the light is on).

Maybe I'll rip the reverse light housing out of my 69 superbee and use it for my new 15 Watt rig...

A POSSIBLE ALTERNATIVE ?

what do you guys think about the "PT series Truck Stop/Tail/Turn Lights: unit at this URL : http://superbrightleds.com/truck_lights.htm

The white one looks like it has a .220 Amp draw - i could have one in the front, and one on the back with the 10 foot cord for the shed when needed too. and still be way under 1 amp draw.

These seem like a good candidate - dont they? I know im not gonna get the same output as the monster light - but im willing to live with a solution that wont suck the life out of the battery... I can epoxy a hard drive magnet to the back of the unit. Those hard drive magnets are super strong - for those who are not aware.

ONE MORE THING ?
Its really too bad that my Tec engine - doesnt have a pull starter on it - that way if I killed the battery i could resort to pull starting it... Did Tecumseh make a pull start 10 hp shroud/cap for their motors? Do any of you guys know ?

thanks all - pleasure discussing the options with you guys.

Dave O.
dynamike59
16 years ago
I think that I found a solution to your problem.
This system is maintance free, very high powered , offers unlimited visiability and works with any brand of tractor.
The only draw back is don't use it if your a Vampire...need I say more?
varmint_304
16 years ago
I'm a novice when it comes to electrical work, so please bear with me. The picture I'm getting is this...

You need light.
You would like directional light.
Your tractor is insufficient in terms of electrical output.
You want cheap/inexpensive light.

Basically, you want something like the accessory light from the link below (without the silly JD price tag).

Why not ignore the tractor's electrical system and mount a batter-powered flashlight to the rig? Black & Decker makes a rechargeable spotlight for about $25 (Google VEC156BD and you should find it.) Buy one if you don't already have something similar. Then build a cradle or mount for it on the tractor. You'll be able to use it with the tractor and also for other activities.

Here is a link that might be useful: Expensive Grab Light
rowdy235
16 years ago
If it was me, id probably amp up the tractors charging output.

That said, I think, as others have mentioned, your best bet is a portable, battery light
njdpo
Original Author
16 years ago
Hi rowdy235,

regarding AMPing up the charging output... How might something like that be done??? have you done something like this b4 ?

Im not in the mood to be mounting an alternator from a Kenworth on the little sears - but would consider other creative modifications.

thx dave ...
njdpo
Original Author
16 years ago
Hi all,

finally figured out how to include a photo of the light Ive been talking about...

Prepare to be disappointed in my handy work...

The foam junk around the light protects the unit when it should fall off the tractor and being kicked around while we are loading trailers and such in the evening hours...
Ugly yes - but works great.

The light switch is mounted under the seat (keeping it well away from the rain and snow) and can be switched on while driving the unit.

Note the 1-7/8 ball hitch drilled and mounted to the rear of the tractor.

funny but that little 10 hp tec engin really seems to do everything we ask of it - and mostly at idle... If we run into trouble, its generally the rear tires breaking loose on the grass when were moving something rather heavy.

(BTW - this is the same unit that has reverse gear problems - from a different post)

This unit sits outside - no shed or car port...

Naturally with the motor exposed - Ive had a *LOT* of problems with getting water into the motor when it rains (going into and down the carb).. I typically have to pull the plug and crank it to blow it out.

The wooden tool tray over the motor also keeps the rain and snow off the top of the motor - and that milk jug plastic piece on the back keeps rain and snow from blowing into the air filter area (and also helps to keep the motor warmer longer during cold weather).

Hope you find the photo entertaining ...

thanks - Dave

{{gwi:314425}}
mownie
16 years ago
Your tractor could provide enough "raw material" for several episodes of the "Red Green Show". But that's OK (as long as it gets the job done). Honestly, you might think about just adding another OPE battery onto your wooden platform (anchored of course, so it wooden fall off) and periodically charging it up (or connect the 2nd battery in parallel with the OEM battery so it gets charged by the Tec DC output, use a heavy duty switch to separate the 2 batteries when you actually use the Monsterlight, close the switch to connect the batteries when light is off). Also, if ever an award is given for "admitting to maintenance sins", you are at least certain to be nominated. :^) LOL

Here is a link that might be useful: Helpful tips to
rowdy235
16 years ago
In regards to AMPing up the output, I have done it before in several ways. If it was on your craftsman, I'd run a belt from the pulley that normally runs the deck, to an alternator with a built-in voltage regulator. The one below is a bit spendy, but would work excellent.

I did one of these setups on my uncles craftsman, he was running 2 floodlights for snow plowing. I think on his we mounted the alternator down under the floorboard and ran a belt from the bottom (deck) pulley of the engine. Always provided plenty of power. I think we got ours out of an old toyota.

Now, I'm not saying its the best option, just an idea.

Here is a link that might be useful: Alternator
njdpo
Original Author
16 years ago
Gee whizzer guys ...

If you go the route of actually mounting a real live alternator to your tractor - aren't you well on your way to building an emergency generator? (although 10 horse would be a bit overkill).

Which I wouldn't mind having in my area - and of course this unit would be able to be lit up like a Christmas tree to suit my immediate lighting requirements.

Have a look at this : http://theepicenter.com/tow082099.html

thx! dave
dave01
16 years ago
Keep in mind that if you make the generator rig, you need to buy 2 or more 12 volt car batteries, deep cycle with decent capacity. Then you need the alternator. Then the DC to AC inverter, the 1500 watt is $199, the 3000 watt is over $400. So, after spending $700 or so (not including the tractor) you have a 3000 watt inverter hooked to a 10 HP charging system. Might be a fun project, but doesn't make much sense.

Just buy a 4000-5000 watt generator. A cheapie might be $400, a quieter, longer running one maybe $650. It will have a 5 HP engine that burns less gas than your lawn mower.

Only advantage to the inverter rig - that you can run off the inverter, using battery power, without running the gas motor. Unless you are planning to have power outages every month that advantage wouldn't be worth it to me.

Back to your lighting problem - simple, cheap solution - mount a 110 volt trickle charger permanently to the tractor, then just plug it into an extension cord every night, will keep the battery charged and you can still use your monster light.
steve2ski
16 years ago
I think this could turn into a entry into the Rube Goldberg design contest.
joe_m
16 years ago
I just went through this with a Tec powered snowblower that I wanted to mount a headlight on. The SnowKing engine puts out about 1.5 amps for an 18 watts lighting system. I used one of those accessory rubber tractor light housings. They are available at auto parts stores and they are designed to hold a PAR36 sealed headlight (about 4+ inches in diameter). They usually come with a 35 Watt bulb that is removeable. I replaced with Wagner part # 4414, which is an 18 watt bulb. Worked great.
njdpo
Original Author
16 years ago
ok - So I was in Walfart this weekend browsing around and I found some LED units in Amber and Red...

(no i did not find any white LED lights)

I bought a 3 LED RED unit and a 4 LED AMBER unit (about $5 and $6)...

I Gorilla glued a magnet from a hard drive to the back of the plastic housing of the Amber unit and I can basically place the light anywhere (on the tractor) I see fit...

The smaller 3 LED Red unit is interesting because it seems to throw more light (or as much light) than the 4 led Amber light. (ill know more once i get it mounted).

I want a red in the back - as I need to occasionally drive the tractor up the side of the road.

While giving up on the big halogen light - I can now use the front and rear amber/red lights - and know that my battery is actually charging.

I plan on making a magnetic mount for the red light - just light the amber ... If I want to move both lights to the front - its as simple as just moving the magnetic light around.

Just thought I would let you know ...

Now that I found the small red light - im thinking about mounting one on my Montesa Trials motorcycle (www.usmontesa.com).
rowdy235
16 years ago
sounds like things worked out well, good job
johninmd
16 years ago
check out this site, will "illuminate" a understanding of LED bulbs, they also sell them

Here is a link that might be useful: LED's

Let there be light ... on my rear engine sears

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