I do not need a picture, I can ID it for you. Your model XL was made in 1978 and sold with a 12" hard tip bar. It can use a 16", 14" 10" or 8" as well. Probably the best match is with a 12" Power Tip bar. Any part you need is available. Bill Walcott 700 N 12th Marysville KS 66508 785-562-3539

Good Tip And Good To See Ewalk�s Info! I have been missing his tips and experience. I have been cutting my own foam filters for "small" engines for years (70s). This started when I finally found a foam equivalent to what I was seeing in Briggs mowers and Poulan S25 saws that could take the environment (heat/oil/etc) w/o deteriorating. Is this common to fit your own cut foam filter if it is working as well? Seeing No Filter Kills Me!!

Great forum here and a great education! I just picked up a Homelite 150 Automatic model UT 104324, serial number 380600059. It appears to have had little use, is completely old-school as far as safety brake and that sort of stuff, but I put a tank of 50:1 regular gas in it and it fired right up, idled just fine, and cut as well as its not-so-sharp chain could be expected to do. I have a couple of questions as I get to know and trust the saw, and any input is greatly appreciated. 1. Did I injure the engine with a short run of 50:1 fuel, and should the octane be higher than regular fuel? Should I definitely be using a 32:1 mix? 2. How do I know if the automatic oiler is oiling? The oil tank had oil in it, and I topped it off with bar and chain oil: how much oil residue should I see on the bar? 3. Does the safety tip wheel fit onto the roller tip bar on this saw, and can Bill Walcott send me one? 4. Is there a retro-fit toothy-poker plate available to mount on the engine face like more modern saws use? That seems like a good stabilizing/safety device. 5. Is the Oregon 72 the proper chain? The bar protrudes 16 inches past the engine face. Thank you all so much for what you have created here: this has been a great tool! Glen Moore, Seattle WA

Rock: While your at it get the diaphram kit , it is not much of a $$ adder. A weak diaphram can cause poor performance also . Older saws with a little dirt or varnish along with a weak diaophram will cause a lot of headaches. Ensure to check all your fuel lines for tightness a small air leak can cause serious damage long term. Also as previously suggested , ensure your fuel filter has no restriction you should be able to blow through it . If all is good then just a jet orifice cleaning with a concentrated fuel cleaner should get you going :)