I don't have the time right now to go into everything you inquired about. Just a few quick observations. For as much as you plan to grow, making your own mix will save you money over buying pre-made mixes. Peat, vermiculite and perlite are the most common ingredients in store bought mixes. Some also use small bark pieces. There are many recipes for better home made potting mixes and you can read the posts in this forum where Tapla (Al) discusses one of his mixes as well as the properties of mixes in general. Feel free to use whatever is easily and least expensively available in your area, but the Container Soils and Water (or something like that) post will help you understand what to look for. For cheap containers look to nurseries for nursery container discards. You want the larger ones, 12" and up for most of what you wish to grow. A little duct tape will fix any cracks for a season of growing. Also hit up restaurants and bakeries for free 5 gallon buckets. Tips on getting good yield? Keep the potting mix moist, don't let it dry out. A plant that wilts in the heat will probably recover if watered soon enough, but it's yield will be affected. Also, fertilize regularly. Use a water soluble fertilizer so it is rapidly available to the plants and use it full strength no less than every other week. High nitrogen (the first number) for plants grown for leaves and lower N for plants grown for roots/bulbs/fruit. Good growing to you.

I'm not quite sure abut the L terminal wire being linked directly to the cigarette lighter (all by itself) but it could be tied or connected with some other wires. As to the requirement for re-polarizing a generator when servicing..... "Servicing" is a pretty broad term. Practically anything you do to anything could be called "servicing". The kind of "servicing" that requires you to polarize a generator is if you are replacing the armature assembly (or replacing the commutator on the existing armature) or if you are replacing the field coil(s) assembly. If all you did was disassemble, clean, lubricate and re-assemble, you did nothing that would alter the residual magnetism of the generator or de-magnetize any of the components. The fact that your GEN light burns at idle and goes off at higher RPM indicates that it is charging (at least enough to put the light out. You CAN'T check electrical devices with an Ohm meter while they are in use. Ohm meters are good for testing the resistance value of electrical circuits and components (or for continuity) ONLY if the device is not in use (electrified) and ONLY if the device and any sub-components are physically and electrically separated (so you know you are measuring only ONE thing and not several that are linked up together). The proof that the generator is charging is to use a DC VOLT METER. Measure the battery voltage with the engine off. Write down your reading. Then start the engine and raise the RPM to about 2500 or so and check the battery voltage again at that RPM. Your reading should increase by about 2 to 2.5 volts and should not exceed 14.2 to 14.4 volts. Run the engine at this RPM for about 1/2 hour and check the battery voltage again with engine running. The voltage reading should not be higher than 14.2 to 14.4 VDC.

Taking the toe kick off did not help. I did a load with one pillow and one 2x3 heavy cotton bath rug. It was near the end of it's cycle at the cooling down phase. I walked away and the buzzer went off. Came back and the filter light was on. I opened the door and the pillow was standing, back at the rear vent area. I had the settings on normal, full load, extra dry. The rug was ever so damp and the pillow (synthetic stuffing) wasn't totally dry either. Moderate to large amount of lint on the screen. Rug had been washed a fair number of times. Pillow was the first time. I took a piece of toilet paper and there was a nice draw that was being pulled in at the opening that I exposed. The filter light still went off. Fahrenheit: 1) if I get a buster what kind do I look at? 2) Would taking that dip out of the corrugated run help, as seen in the picture, or do I just get the darn booster? 3) I would have never thought that I would have needed a booster with the unit 8' away from the outside wall. Is this fairly common? I recognize the bends are causing more resistance to air flow, but still. 4) Is this typical for all dryers to need a booster at 33' of adjusted run, or is it because my dryer is really a hair dryer like MRB-627 says? LOL.

There was a post quite a way back about a farmer who needed power to run a pump to water his fields and he used a generator to do this instead of running power out to the water shed - that made a lot of sense. But running a standby generator for a long period of time will be expensive. My generator is a 12 kilowatt unit and burns about 2.5 gallons of propane per hour when it is at 50% throttle (idle speed) - generating about 25 amps at 240 volts. That would cost you about 6 dollars per hour of run time using the latest price per gallon of propane here ($2.30). And then you have to have the propane delivered - is there a supplier closeby? It sounds like a very remote area. If you plan on running that generator for very long periods of time you might want to consider a water cooled unit which will be more expensive unit than the air cooled versions. How is the wind in your area? You might want to look at a wind powered generator (maybe even a small solar power system) to handle your basic lighting needs. Then maybe propane for heating and cooking. A hybrid approach might be more cost effective than running a generator 24x7 or for very long durations. You might still need a generator for a well pump and emergencies but a small portable unit might do the trick.