I assume that since you had one mild winter you have decided that you are OK with planting roses that you might have to grow as annuals? I would not recommend trying that with teas, as they take 4-5 years to really achieve their maximum size & beauty. Or, I guess you could build a greenhouse...........

Seriously, why not find out from locals which roses LOVE your climate? I would strongly recommend the book "Right Rose, Right Place" by Peter Schneider, who is incredibly experienced growing roses in Ohio. There should be enough great roses he recommends in that book for your conditions to keep anyone happy.

Jackie

I didn't assume anything if I did I would have already bought them :)

Thats why I am here to see if there is anybody that would know if any of those would be hardy enough for my climate.

Thanks though for your comment I will check that book out. :)

Which ones you can get away with depends solely on how much effort you put into protecting them in the winter.

It took me years, including watching my mother as a child to find a way that is ninety per sure that what you cover will still be green in the spring.

Buryinging is the most labor intesive but also the best way, period.
By trial and error I found a second best I will try this winter.
What ever you do, it is BEST if you put a solid cover under the cover, it works like a sheet under a comforter.

I have buried roses up to four feet tall but it takes space and time, so I trim my roses down as it give me more options on how to cover them.

As I found out persomally which was reinforced by persons I spoke to whose roses are near like their children-- no matter how mild winter normally is, it takes only ONE bad winter to destroy years of work and treasure.

I can still hear the disappointment in my mother's voice some springs.

Expect the unexpected.

I grow Duchesse de Brabant as a small bedding rose. (Mme Joseph Schwartz is a sport of Duchesse de Brabant.)

Duchesse de Brabant is more tolerant of cold zones than some other Teas, so of the roses on your list, MJS might be one to consider.

Jessica, I have thought about trying a Tea rose for years here in Michigan but just never got around to it. If you try it, let us know what happens. You can generate quite a list of what some people thought were the hardiest Teas if you simply google, in quotes: "hardiest tea roses".

Krista DdB is also on my list :) just not this list. You live in NY which zone you in?

RpR so what your saying is if I cover good then I should do a little more covering just in case

Mike I sure will :)

Thank you :)

I think I'm in zone 5a.

After years of simply covering roses with leaves and hoping I had enough to withstand near thirty below zero weather, one winter when a storm was moving in and I was short on leaves, I put a car cover over the roses before I put the leaves on top.

It was a nasty winter but when I pulled the leaves and cover off in the spring, expecting to have lost two or three, all survived and looked more reading to go than they ever did with just leaves.

Burying them is even more effective but involves far more work.

I do not know how you normally cover your roses, but put landscape fabric, a car cover, or what ever you have over them like you would a blanket, them put your normal cover over them.

If you use cones, or pile dirt around them put the cover over the cones and then put a layer of what ever (leaves work best) over that.
I have found with cones that cutting the top off and pouring mulch, I did it once using cocoa hulls that I use to mulch the entire rose bed, into the cone is sort of insurance policy.

This fall I will simply pour cocoa bean hull over the, trimmed, bush, minus cone till it is covered, put the cover over than and put a foot to sixteen inches of leaves over that.
I experimented that way with a few roses last winter and they looked real good.
I do put a border of staked wire fence and or bales around the outside to keep the leaves where they belong.

As the more experienced members noted, its a matter of how much you are willing to invest in winterizing. I have seen roses that were supposed to be winter hardy (down to Zone 4-5) with all canes dead last year. On the other hand, some Z6 roses survived pretty harsh winters, coming to life with minimal loss in the spring.
I pail up mulch around the crown, up to 1 foot high. I am not going to invest in truckloads of mulch or schlep 200 of these 80 lbs bags! With all my love for roses, I set limits to what I am ready to do. As such, I limit my rose selection to the hardier specimens and hope for best. But, with proper protection, you may grow almost anything.

I push zones all the time. It is chancy but it's also fun and a lot of times full of surprises. I wouldn't spend a bushel of money on them to begin with. Just buy one or two to start and experiment. If you know your yard really well I'll bet you know where your warmest spots are. Plant a tea there and give it a try. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Seil how are you z6 in Michigan?

What zone maps do you use or find out where? I did a few but I am right on the border of 5b and 6 but I just went to USDA plant hardiness map and it says that I am z6..

I'm on Lake St. Clair just north of Detroit. I'm actually in zone 6b on the newest zone map. But I've known for years I was a zone warmer than they said because I have always experimented with zone pushing. I have grown a lot of things that people said would never winter in zone 5 but they did just fine for me.

Here is a link that might be useful: USDA Hardiness zone map 2012

a rebel huh :D

thats good because I want to get some teas :) I am going to order next week yay!

How much winterizing do you do seil?

Cultivars will have two different issues with winter. The most obvious is that it gets too cold, and the canes die back or the plant expires. Less obvious is the freeze/thaw repeatedly bring the plant out of dormacy--a good zone 6 plant can deal with the latter--a good zone 5 plant may not.

The health of a plant makes a significant difference--an exhibitor may have an extremely healthy plant that has not had any stress all year--while that same cultivar in a "no spray" garden might be just hanging on by the time winter arrives.

I've read that electric lighting keeps palm trees alive in Las Vegas. While expensive, this may be an option for keeping alive treasured plants during freak weather events. You might want to keep around that old inefficient Christmas lighting!

All my roses are grown no-spray, including Duchesse de Brabant. They do get blackspot, but this does not diminish blooming.

Duchesse de Brabant gets blackspot and leaf drop in summer. Repeat bloom is almost continuous, however.

It has cane dieback in winter, and rebounds in spring.

The potted roses get the most winter protection. If I have leaves left over I will spread them on the ground beds but it isn't a very thick layer, maybe 4 to 6 inches deep. Some years the ground roses get nothing because I didn't have the leaves to spare. Neither of my two beds are against the house. They're in the open and both are on the west side where they are exposed to the full prevailing winds all year. The potted ones go against the south wall well buried in leaves and wrapped in burlap. Oh, and I do not bury the grafts on any of them. I plant the grafts right at soil level. A lot of my HTs are only rated to zone 7 and a lot of those are some of my oldest roses. Both Double Delight and English Sonnet have been in the ground for decades and are still going strong! I've had Red Intuition in a pot for 5 winters now and it's a florist rose rated to zone 7. Roses are much tougher than people give them credit for.

JessicaBe
I live in the Newark area and we used to be zone 5 but are now in zone 6 The last 5 years have been much warmer but as you can see the real problem is the threat of frost after a warm spell in March. Happens without fail. So far it hasnt hurt my roses too badly yet but I chose roses that were all hardy for zone5 ,now they suffer more from the hotter summers!
roseberri

Roseberri I live in Lancaster so I know where Newark is :) . Thats cool a Garden Webber close to me (i don't feel so alone now lol)

Hi JessicaBe

For what it's worth, I've grown some of the teas you list in a zone 6 pocket in my zone 5b garden for about 4-5 years. I'll post another thread sometime about these when they bloom, but my bottom line reaction is - it depends. Like Seil I enjoy zone pushing and don't spend a lot of money on my tea experiments (all from Chamblees, own root gallons). The results are decidedly "OK", but as expected none of them are as spectacular as they'd be in a warmer zone. Most of them have survived - so far the only ones that died were Safrano and Monsieur Tillier, though Duchesse de Brabant got planted later than I'd have liked last year and isn't doing so well yet.

The following tea roses have survived and bloom reasonably well for me: Mrs. B.R. Cant, Madame Antoine Mari, Maman Cochet, Mrs. Dudley Cross, and the best of the bunch has been Georgetown tea (thanks to Olga for the recommendation). Remember that I do winter protect everything in my yard, and the teas get protected first with a full-sized bag of leaves next to them rather than a chopped down third of the bag. I doubt they'd bloom much without protection even if they survived, since teas want to build up structure over the years from existing old wood.

So I agree with what has been suggested - feel free to try it but plan to winter protect them and don't expect the results you get in warmer climates.

Cynthia

Thank you Nippstress and everyone for helping I really appreciate it :)

nice to know another garden webber too!
I have the book that jacqueline3 is talking about and you would be welcome to borrow it if you can't find it. He only lists one Tea Rose for this area and that is Lady Hillingdon,but he lives in a much harsher county up near
Ravenna. I would say pick one or two you really love and put them in a protected garden (south facing near the house) and be prepared to baby them. See what happens.You can email me if you want the book.

roseberri