We have the Hansgrohe (virtually identical, I believe) and the hose broke 3 times before we wised up. Because of the water restrictor, it puts too much pressure on the hose connection which eventually bursts apart. We took out the small black plastic restrictor - it just popped out with a jeweler's screwdriver. I hated doing this because we take water conservation seriously, but it's a built-in design flaw. Frankly, I think Waterpik works better and lasts longer for 1/10 the price. It's the only part of our bathroom remodel we actually regret.

I don't hear the pump do anything at all - a very faint buzz when it should be draining but more like a switch/electric sound not a pump trying to run sound. I pulled it out and checked the drain pipe - no water or clogs in there. Nothing I can find. It's definitely not the sink disposal that is clogged - it is running freely and also as I said no water comes out of the overflow/airgap at the sink, which it would if the line were clogged after the air gap - before the disposal. So I have ruled that out. Sounds like the pump is dead. The pump part cost is $75 and this cheap old dishwasher was about $250 new and is not worth buying parts for, I guess it's time to replace it with something better quality... i'd just hoped it would run for a little longer.

You have reasons to be especially concerned about avoiding major issues, but they may be on their way to making major issues out of things that need not be. Molehills become mountains when we are stressed and exhausted. Take a few deep breaths and try to look realistically at what the current situation is and what you are certain to deal with in the near future and not everything that could possibly go wrong unless you don't want to buy ANY house. I would ask for the sealant to be applied and then schedule it to be checked and reapplied if needed. Asbestos is a problem if it becomes loose and airborne or "friable." If it is bound up in concrete, it doesn't sound friable as long as the cement is not breaking up or becoming powdery and having lived with cement slabs for most of my life, I just don't see it as inevitable that cement is going to start flaking and turn to powder. If it will give you peace of mind, ask them to apply the sealant or do it yourself if they say no. Grading and adjustments to landscape grading are both acts of nature and maintenance issues. It isn't practical to try to overcome nature, so you try to control what you can. And then there are different approaches to the same problems. You can DIY -- fill in the low lying areas with some new soil and let the grass fill in over them on it's own, create a rock bed or other drain path to give water ways to move away from the house. A bit of working in the yard can be good therapy -- or it wouldn't cost that much to get a yardman (as opposed to a landscaping company) to help you with some of these things. A French drain or other way to remove water against the house would be something most women wouldn't undertake on their own, but it doesn't sound like you need those if a 45 year old house doesn't have any damage issue. The other extreme is for a landscaping company to come in and spend thousands - even tens of thousands, removing everything, grading and replacing the plantings. You will still need to make adjustments down the road -- maybe more if the soil does more settling. Even homes with good drainage can have mosquito issues and there are any number of ways to address them. I've added a link below for a place I've purchased from to give you some ideas. The garlic oil really works too. I wouldn't expect the relo company to do much on these issues, and I wouldn't expect them to upgrade hoses that are not failing. That's one of those things a good agent here would remind you that (1) the washer and dryer are not usually sold with the home and if you are getting them it is a plus so take the plus and pay for the hoses, (2) most folks suggest you replace the hoses each time you move , so if you brought your own W&D you would be buying new hoses anyway and (3) you are asking for an upgrade when you are entitled to repairs. Relo companies are often adverse to doing anything they don't have to if there is a chance it could come back and bite them -- and they may see buyers who expect too much to be exactly the kind who will come back and bite them. Also, keep in mind that when they respond, you will have to decide to take the house with what they agree to -- even if it is nothing, or move on. They are more likely to negotiate the size of price adjustments for repairs than they are to change their minds on the yes or no factor. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: Mosquito control ideas

Your GC doesn't know?! Make him call/visit the permitting authority and ask. Give him the DW model and a copy of the install sheet (I think that's where Miele puts the info) explaining why how the Miele works negates the need for an air gap. Make him earn his money by finding this out for you since he should know. If he won't do it, go in yourself armed with the info. Write down what was told to you and by whom along with the date you visited. That way when inspection is done, you have back-up if inspector questions it. Sorry....I GC'd my whole house reno so I feel the homeowner is entitled to know the laws. Side note: My municipality supposedly enforces the make-up air requirement, like most states do, for range hoods over 400cfm. I put in a 600cfm beauty and no one along the inspection path ever asked me about it at all, other than to admire it. I was a bit worried, but it turned out fine. I was really quite shocked at how little the final inspector looked around and enforced code. My island outlets weren't to code, but the inspector never once looked at them. It was a cursory 5 minute glance through my house, and he was gone. Long story short--your inspector might not even care about the air gap.