Austins are not necessarily more disease resistant than Harkness roses, quite the contrary - of course it depend on the location where you garden. I have Compassion, for example, which is a Harkness rose, and in my garden, in a terribly humid blackspot inferno in the eastern coastal region Compasion has been always 100% blackspot free despite the fact that it is planted in a semi-shady spot. Moreover, it gives me wonderfully fragrant flowers. This Compassion came from Pickering, my first one that I discarded was virused was grafted on Dr. Huey. The newer Fryer roses also have decent disease resistance. And there are Meanwhile the Austins must be sprayed here with 1 or 2 exception. Your mileage may vary, since in the middle of the country the blackspot pressure may not be so severe. If you decide to order from David Austin, ask around which roses you should stay away from due to virus problems - as far as I know Sharifa Asma kept coming from them virused. (And if a plant is virused you cannot do anything, it will decline sooner or later, especially in a cold zone.) I would also recommend you to check out the new very disease resistant Kordes roses, most of them will probably be hardy for you and quite a number of them have very good fragrance. I suggest to visit Pickering nurseries website and look at the selection what they have. Check the "winter hardy" roses" cross reference it with the " disease resistant roses" and then again cross reference it with the 'fragrant roses". If that is too much, Palatine has a smaller list - they deliver the biggest bareroots (grafted) plants I have ever seen. Both companies graft on multiflora (this understock started from seed, not from cuttings) so you will get virus free plants. The only contraindication to these roses is if your soils is very alkaline (though you can adjust that with garden sulfur). Pickering's website is open for browsing but don't list the new prices yet. Ordering usually starts in August or September and you can reserve your plants for the proper planting time in your area. It make sense to order early because the best and newest roses (new Austins, new Kordes' like Laguna some Harkness) are sold out fast.

I'm assuming that you might be totally new to roses and to landscaping with this new house. If not, please bear with me some here... I've written a good bit below for what I might do with your new yard, something suited to my own tastes and ideas as to what I like in roses. (Probably too much but I kind of got going in imagining your landscape design.) I'd also like to highly recommend a book that can help hugely in forming your own landscaping ideas with roses. You can buy it cheaply at Amazon.com. If I had to buy it used, I'd do that, even if it were in crummy condition. The book gives ideas, lots and lots of ideas: "Landscape with Roses" by Jeff Cox. And one more: "The House & Garden Book of Country Gardens" by Charles Quest-Ritson. Not so much for specific ideas as really good for helping you to define for yourself your general taste preferences. I got mine used at Amazon, and have enjoyed it hugely; it helped me to figure out what kinds of styles in landscaping I really like best, and which I really don't want to emulate. Regarding your new house, the northwest orientation on the back is something less than ideal for most roses, but the front of your house and yard would likely be easy for growing roses. SHADE TOLERANCE: In general, you can probably plant most roses that are reasonably hardy along the front, and probably many hybrid musks would work for the back just fine too, but some roses that are considered shade tolerant might be less shade tolerant than you might need, with that two-story house creating lots of shade around the back yard. ROSES SUGGESTIONS FOR THE BACK: I'd guess that Ghislaine de Feligonde might work out nicely, if you give her enough time to get where you want her to go. It's fragrant, low in thorns, disease resistant, shade tolerant, and those who have it tend to love it. It blooms a lot. Be sure to attach it to some kind of trellis or wiring to stand the rose out from the bricks a bit to allow for some air circulation behind it. Along the bottom, you could make a whole row of that same variety. Many different hybrid musk varieties ought to work for this job too, though they probably wouldn't reach as far as Ghislaine. Just to name a few: Cornelia, Buff Beauty, Lavender Lassie, Prosperity, Penelope, Will Scarlet. Possibly use a different variety with a contrasting color to accent each end (or possibly make this contrast with a different kind of shrubbery altogether: evergreen hiemalis camellia Kanjiro with thick waxy leaves). Then choose some lower growing shade tolerant polyantha roses to plant in front of those large bushes choosing the color according to what you think would look nice with the color of whatever you've planted against the wall. (Or try the very low growing *wonderful* hiemalis camellia 'Shishigashira' there in front of the large rose bushes.) MORE LANDSCAPING POSSIBILITIES ON THE BACK: Construct a huge heavy wooden wide arch to lead into the back entrance, and grow roses on it, with a beautiful little floor of something like bricks with brick steps going down into the lower area, with room in front with a bit more bricks as a little patio with enough room to sit a huge pot on each side of the arch entrance with some favorite roses growing in the pots. (Mortimer Sackler might have enough shade tolerance for the arch, though I wouldn't guarantee that at all.) Then add a couple of climbers on each side of the house wall too, in a contrasting color (both the same variety) to those on the arch, with some evergreen shrubs along the wall as well. If you don't opt for camellias, then there are a ton of azaleas that would also work quite well (one of the small-leaved Kurumes or Gables would especially look nice, I think). THE FRONT: Almost any rose you want to plant will grow. The problem is going to be in how you tie it in with what you have there already. What you have looks fairly good right now. I can't tell exactly what it is, but it looks good. So I'd assume that you probably would like to keep it? The best I can come up with quickly would be to take a nice short low-thorns rambler like Climbing Pinkie, Annie Laurie McDowell or Renae, and pot her up in a huge pot on each side of your doorway. Then let her send a single cane (or two) up between the door and the window, and pull her other canes over and outward via pegs toward the ground away from the door, just to let her other canes ramble along the underside of the windows. Then at the two far corners on the outside of that line of shubbery, plant another rambler (possibly the same variety) and let it flop over, building up on itself in a huge bushy display. (Gorgeous picture of Rhonda in zone 7 doing that with climbing pinkie: www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=21.88187). Then in front of the existing shrubbery, plant a short row of low-growing polyantha roses, something that would look nice with the rest (Marie Daley for a similar color, or Marie Pavie to contrast, perhaps.) These varieties will all tolerate some partial shade too, as might be the case to the far left on the front. Another variety that you might like to do something along these lines with would be the David Austin rose Mortimer Sackler. It's nicely fragrant, beautiful, and easy to grow, though it tends to want more to be more upright like a shrub than to flop over like the above three ramblers. You might want to do these rose additions in stages, and just start with a row of low polyanthas in front of the existing shrubbery. ALTERNATIVE FOR THE FRONT: If you're really ambitious, take two garden hoses and lay out a slightly winding path to the front door. Pave that path with something you like, perhaps something to match or complement the paving in front of the front door. If there's a large enough area in the front, make this walk split around a central focal point with a fountain, birdbath, or some striking shrubbery that you particularly like (Camellia Japonica Nuccio's Jewel or Nuccio's Pearl would do that!), perhaps surrounded by small roses. It would likely be a round focal point, but doesn't necessarily have to be round, especially if you decide to make a part of the walkway veer off to one side to, say, another planting area, another parking area, or a side yard's garden. Then figure on your front landscaping as a whole, taking that walkway into account, and trying for an informal balance. To give you some online inspiration for figuring out what kind of looks you might like, I've attached a link to Philip Oliver's website. It takes a good while to look at all his pictures, but you can see how he started with an open non-landscaped yard and has ended up a mere ten years later with something gorgeous. You have a zillion different good options! These are just my own leanings showing up now in this response. I hope you enjoy your new house and working on your new yard. :) Best wishes, Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Phillip Oliver's pictures offer lots of landscaping ideas

Considering that grammar 'experts' use different rules according to what type of material they are publishing -- one example is the APA Style Manual, a guide for publishing in the behavioral and social sciences; another example is the AP style manual that journalists use -- I think we should use whatever makes sense to us. Working in a university as I do, we have some interesting discussions about which to use in our official University publications - the journalism-trained people against those trained in academia. Our president is our decider as to what our official style will be and luckily, that's the style I prefer. I like what the English Forum says about this issue: "In American usage printers usually place a period or comma inside closing quotation marks whether it belongs logically to the quoted matter or to the whole sentence or context.... But when a logical or exact distinction is desired in specialized work in which clarity is more important than usual (as in this dictionary), a period or comma can be placed outside quotation marks when it belongs not in the quoted matter but to a larger unit containing the quoted matter. The package is labeled 'Handle with Care'." To me this includes such things as official cultivar names, and as Dr. Manner said, "Single quotes are actually a part of the official cultivar name, so must always be within punctuation, regardless of country of use or any other consideration. There are no exceptions."

Don't let Jeri scare you. She doesn't get the hot summer temps needed to open SOUVENIR DE LA MALMAISON and CLOTILDE SOUPERT. Now as for CLOTILDE, I definitely prefer the climber. The beautiful blooms are wasted on the short shrub, although like most Polyanthas it blooms non-stop. As a climber CLOTILDE is superb in almost every way. For one the thorns are small and widely spaced, making it easy to grasp the canes without getting mauled. Second, the canes are long and flexible. Third, both the climber and shrub grow quickly on their own roots, hitting the ground running and never turning back. Third, the repeat bloom is truly exceptional, especially for the climber. I can't tell you how many times I've been disappointed with the repeat of large flowered climbers, but this climbing Polyantha blooms PROFUSELY in the spring then doles out flowers at a regular rate before launching a fall flush that is almost as good as the first. Finally, very good black spot resistance. Her one fault is that balling problem, which really isn't too bad where summers are hot. Heat being the necessary factor for the silky blooms to open under humid conditions. Either that or you can always blow a strong puff of air on the buds to "crack" them open. Actually you really just need to loosen the outer petals. Why do I put up with the balling? Well, when the flower do open they are perfectly formed and gloriously fragrant. The color is another bonus. Pristine white blushed delicate lilac pink in the middle. Extended vase life too and loooong stems (on the climber only). In Eastern Texas she is worth a try. This rose was MADE for the south.