hi here is a pic of shadehouse plants being readied for permanent homes lol have just started on the epiphyte plantings , Have placed a few ferns but most of the orchids are still in pots hanging near the chosen location. With this kind of planting have to srart at the tree tops and work down or trample what's undeneathlol Actually the misters have only run twice this summer more than enough rainfall in fact too much lol. i am getting excellant drainage from the beds as intended but in spite of my almost pure sand soil I'm getting the "jungle effect anyway can't dig down as get seepage at around a foot The ground level plantings are still undecided naturally so real paths are still tenuous . just need something that can keep the walk areas from getting muddy . that won't wash away and pushed into the soil . On the deep shade area i've placed some scrap boards but the tend to slide . thanks gary

Update (2013 follow-up) of successful steep slope plantings on a dry sandy slope in So. Calif. In my previous post, I listed drought-tolerant Calif. natives used in my initial plantings. But the fire department does NOT like summer-deciduous plants such as sages. And as water was reduced, plants such as Wooly Blue Curls did not survive. It has been a 10-year project and this is how I turned a steep dry sandy slope into a drought-tolerant garden: 1) Basic Calif-native trees & shrubs were planted (a couple of Coast Live Oaks, lots of fire-resistant Toyons, McMinn Manzanitas, Sunset Manzanitas and the wonderful Hollyleaf Cherry are good choices). At the driest upper areas, Palo Verde Trees were planted for their deep tap roots and provide 25% shade cover when leafed out during the summer. 2) The slope is very steep. As I worked the sloped while planting and watering, a curvy informal foot trail started to form. As the trees and shrubs took hold of the soil, these foot trails were gradually deepened. Most native ground covers are sold as tiny little things that can't get a hold on steep slopes or are buried under a shovel of dirt unless planted at the base of an agave for protection. Tip: Buckwheat prostrate is a great steep-slope ground-cover that drapes down and hides the vertical cut edge of pathways. 3) The native flower shrubs (Wooly Blue Curls) died. Calif. Fushia is very dought resistant and is best if tucked under an agave to brighten up the driest desert plantings at the upper level. As the trees, shrubs and trails became established, lots of agaves were added to hold the surface soil. Cabbage-sized boulders were often used to hold new plants into the slope. 4) Erosion: A line of three monster Blue Agaves were planted in a horizontal line whenever a "dam" was needed to divert rainwater from running straight down the slope. The maturing slope contours (trails) were gradually deepened and dirt bermed up so that rainwater would travel across the slope and flow into collection basins behind trees and shrubs along the way. The pathway/contours took a lot of time to evolve but was well worth the effort. Instead of walking "on" the slope, the deepened pathways amongst the plantings now gives the feeling of a nature hike. 5) Gradually, non-native plants (aloes) were added to the semi-shaded areas. For the upper "desert" area, tons of barrel cactus and agaves were used as a ground cover alongside uprights such as pony-tail palms and colorful upright non-native Sticks on Fire & Crown of Thorns. This large (1/2 acre) hot dry, sandy steep slope was a real challenge and still is not finished. To make things look right on a large steep slope, you will need dozens of each plant to form groupings. You can use dozens of spikey Agave Geminiflora to give the illusion of a "meadow". Dozens of Golden Barrel cactus planted in an informal "swirl" along a switchback gives the impression of a flower garden from a distance. With a little imagination and a lot work, a steep slope can become a beautiful garden. Take courage, though, because it takes YEARS before others are able to "see" what you have planted. And on difficult slopes, it is better to overplant your basics of trees & shrubs because on a contoured steep slope, a sprinkler grid is too complex and you will lose some trees/shrubs when hand-watering is reduced.

Karin, what a good idea about the natural juice shop and coffee shop. Our educational garden is in it's infancy, and some of our satelite programs are, too, like our compost bins, our worm bins, our soil health, our insectary, etc. I asked our local salad shop if I could have their vegetable waste for our worms, which is working out well. I pick up vegetable matter outside their back door at least once a week. (I hope they don't get sick of the same thing day after day!!) Our office staff, teachers and preschool age students also help by composting their appropriate materials. I know where a juice bar neighbors a coffee shop, so it WOULD be a good resource: fast and efficient. Thanks for the tip!!

Excellent advice for you from Allie. I only replace about 1/3 of my soil every year. In fact, I have a forsythia and a crab apple and cherry that I really don't replace the soil at all ... just scratch as much as I can off the top and add amendments. As for fertilizers, well, I am going organic this year, so I can't advise much except to say that based on what I did last summer, I would use Osmocote instead of those fertilizer sticks. It's time-release, so it's really not much of a bother ... once when you plant and maybe once in the middle of summer. Keep your mint in a pot, it is very invasive! I have to have it for my iced-tea in the summer, but only in a pot and I keep an eye on it. Can't think of a vine that will overwinter, so try moonflower and morning glory (moonflower has a delicious scent!) They won't bloom til later in the summer, but they did well for me. They get a bit ratty looking at the bottom, so you might want to put some pretty annuals in front of them to hide the bottoms. Latest from Union Square Greenmarket ... was there this past Saturday and was really surprised at the number of annuals they had already. Definitely the place to go for your annuals ... you can get 4" pots and 6-cell packs (though they didn't have many of those yet). I usually buy my annuals in cells ... if I want, I can spread them around more that way. You can get larger ones, of course, but til you see what does well for you, I'd suggest smaller in bulk. Plant days are Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. The Home Depot on 23rd St had lots of nice pots and flower boxes. I am partial to the foam ones ... lightweight (I move stuff around a lot)and better insulation for stuff you are trying to overwinter, especially the double-walled ones. And guess what? They deliver! And very reasonable ... think it was $14. Hard to advise you on specific plants. Since you had begonias, impatiens and hostas, I assume you have a lot of shade? Best to just go shopping and pick out what you like after checking the sun/shade requirements, etc. Welcome :-) Be sure to check out the Balcony gardening forum, also. And take lots of pics! Love seeing pics of other balcony/terrace/roof gardens, especially from my area!