I hope the three households are going to help out with the chores :-) You have a good plan going there and I really hope it goes well for you. I think you are going to have to go vertical on some of those crops (like the cucumbers, tomatoes, maybe melons, pole beans) otherwise simply walking through the garden will pose a real problem. I agree with glib that you are going to need a bona fide soil test done. Check with your local extension office or do a quick google search. They will be able to provide more accurate assessment of the nutrients there (for instance, nitrogen is notoriously difficult to accurately measure and I would be suspect of any testing that includes nitrogen without special handling procedures). Are you planning on growing on this patch for years to come, or do you only need short term space. If it is long term, you are going to have some tough decisions to make. First, do you adopt an organic approach. I would argue that any soil needing to grow for more than three years should be organically managed. Salt build-up, destruction of organic matter and permanent damage to the soil food web are just a few results of using chemical fertilizers (i.e. Miracle Grow, or anything water soluable and more than 3-3-3, or anything greater than 5-5-5 or so. Even if it says organic, you can't necessarily believe it). If you are using the plot long term, you are going to have to focus on soil fertility. In vegetable growing, the mantra really is fertility, fertility, fertility. How to max fertility? Organic matter at 4-10%, balanced levels of major and minor nutrients, good tilth and drainage with sufficient moisture retention to prevent leaching. Crop rotations to avoid buil-up of soil diseases and nematodes. Diverse habitats to attract beneficial insects and pollinators. Wow, sounds really easy when I type it out. I am on my third year in this location and I am still working out fertility issues. Some parts are better than others for certain crops. For instance, you mention heavy clay. Well clay is not that bad as long as it isn't in a low lying area. Actually, if you are growing any brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale) they very much prefer clay soils because of fertility retention. So, where does this leave you? Read, read and read some more. For now, get a delivery of compost, probably two or three yards. Make sure you are getting it from a reputable source: most urban compost delivery comes from sod farms and they are notoriously toxic. Find a local source for organic fertilizers: soybean meal, alfalfa meal, dolomitic lime, kelp meal (if you can afford it), bone meal, dehydrated chicken manure. These are just a few suggestions. Do a google search for Solomon Complete Organic Fertilizer for a great recipe. Spread out a layer of about 2" of compost on top of all your bed sites. Broadcast a half of a gallon of COF into each bed. Then till or hoe in the compost to a depth of around six inches. Water it in. Then spread another 2-3" of compost on top to create a raised bed, borrowing some from the pathways if necessary. Broadcast another half gallon of COF onto each bed. Rake it in, creating a nice, smooth seedbed in the process (rake the clods and rocks into the pathways). Bingo, you are ready to go. As for year two and beyond, well, that is another post I'm affraid :-) Best of luck, and let us know how it turns out! Michael

Fantastic info here. I've only seen ONE earthworm in the some-100 sq ft I dug/tilled. I have considered that as a possibility the soil sucks, but there is some research to suggest whether earthworms are present or not means soil is bad/good. As far as pH testing with county extension. I have thought of doing that, but I just don't want to spend the time. If I were able to dig up the garden last year, for example, I would. I forgot about the water in hole test. I will be trying that out. Last year I did the jar test, forgot about that one. I will do it today. The tilth is there. And smell, I'm terrible with smelling. Excited to see the jar test reslts and water hole test. After thinking it out last night, I have thought maybe tilling in some peat moss would do the trick? Haven't done a pH test/mineral test yet. What are your thoughts? Anyone actually have soil start out like mine and be ammended well in the first year of gardening with it?

OP, nitrogen that comes in a protein form, i.e. alfalfa meal, soy meal, corn meal, soy meal, etc. is the go-to nitrogen if you are uncertain about overdosing. Get it? A vegetative form of feritlizer. That said, you still want to apply at the appropriate rate per square foot of garden area. The organic fertilizer will have an NPK ratio, and apply at the appropriate rate per square foot, just as if you were using synthetic nitrogen. Applying a grain meal will not cause any damage, even if you already have too much nitrogen from all the poop. (In your case, you want the first number to be the dominant number in ratio compared to the next two numbers. That doesn't mean the first number needs to be high, just that it is relatively much higher than the second two numbers.) Too much nitrogen, of any sort, will burn through the compost/organic matter you spent all of that effort amending your soil with. But an organic fertilzer will prevent you from damaging your plants in case you inadvertently over apply (becuase it's buffered, the nitrogen being attached to a very long carbon molecule chain ;) ).. The nitrogen will be availabe to the plant in about two weeks and will last about two months. You can do it again, in other words, every two months. If you want vegetative compost, get free tree trimmings from a local arborist and make your own! If you want to compost it fast, add nitrogen to it, or greens such as grass clippings. However, I'm positive you can find vegetative compost somewhere nearby, but there's very little regulation so you never know what's in there. Trust, but verify, as my hero Ronaldus Magnus used to say, High quality compost, in general, contains up to twenty-five percent manure, maximum, is aged for at least a year or two, and contains no peat moss and minimal pine bark. Best wishes. M This post was edited by Mackel-in-DFW on Wed, May 7, 14 at 16:28

Thonatorose,thanks for the lead , will be calling local pet stores & Davies feed as writersblock suggested. The climbing rose recommended by Goeff over at Cool Roses is a french Delbard called Nehama.grafted to Fortuniana stock for the Florida Climate. Especially known for its extended repeat bloom & amazing fagrance, beautiful shade of pink.Should have done my homework re" recommended planting mix" before ordering,,,,still don't have a clue about what gypsum pelletts are or where to get them. Checked with Rib City & theyre saving me wood ash. May have to just go about planting with whatever else I can find. It will climb a large trells at the entrance of the garden so Its important I get it right .Meanwhile I'm keeping them well watered & in a sheltered sunny location. Will keep advised as to progress Thanks for everyones help & interest...Davie.