soil after tree removal
tifbee
14 years ago
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toxcrusadr
14 years agotifbee
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Cleaning soil after removing toxic plants
Comments (7)and it is not a known juglone producer in any literature I've ever read. Oleander CAN'T produce juglone, since that's a hormone only exuded by the Juglandaceae, the walnut family and its related species. Allelopathy is an ongoing field of study and many plants produce allelopathic chemicals but few in concentrations serious enough to warrant attention, like the walnut. Removing the oleander and as much of the stump as possible - same as you would do for any large shrub - is sufficient to assure safety of the soil for edible crops and your livestock. FWIW, I have never read any evidence that so-called "toxic" substances -like the oleandrin glycosides - can be translocated or drawn up from the soil into other, non-specific plant tissue. Even heavy metals are typically not absorbed by plants in any significant or possibly harmful concentrations....See MoreMorning glory starting to Wilt after removing top layer of soil??
Comments (4)gorlax -It sounds like your MG has just about been OverDosed by the attempts to control the gnats... I would try a few things... 1)You can try a major FLUSHING out of the soil to hopefully completely eliminate all of the chemicals that are causing the plant to wilt...MG's do not like mint oil...keep watering alot and flushing off the water to dilute any of the gnat treatment... 2)Completely remove all of the toxic soil by placing the plant in a large waterproof container and fill this with lukewarm water to free the plants roots from the toxic soil...replant into new soil... 3)try rooting some cuttings from the plant... If it were my plant I would opt for #2...and #3... I've never had any difficulty transplanting MG's as long as the plants were very well watered before,during and after transplanting... You can also do nothing > and leave the plant in the soil that it is in but I think the present medium has become too toxic and is most likely going to do the plant in... The main thing to keep in mind is >DO NOT(!) add any more chemicals or 'treatments' to the soil... Hope that helps and please let us know if something works... TTY,... Ron P.S. - send me a picture of the plant to my e-mail if you can and want to......See Morewhat to plant after tree removal
Comments (10)Your question about what to plant is asked in a void of knowledge. Based on the site's position within the yard and proximity to the house, it's most likely that you could benefit from the addition of a SMALL tree (maybe one with colorful foliage or that blooms with showy flowers) with a lawn or groundcover below it. However, we can't see the surrounds and backdrop which is what one would need to understand before they proceeded with designing a landscape. The idea of some colorful perennials (or whatever) in an isolated bed in the area shown, seems like it has a better chance to become an eyesore rather than a permanent solution. It's not going to help give the house a sense of being protected or "knit" into its surroundings If there is a part of the house to be painted, other than the trim, we can't see it. I like the white trim as a good contrast to the brick. The garage doors are the most prominent feature of the house front and they are boring, uninteresting. I would see about having their top panels replaced by ones with a bank of windows. Possibly some decorative hardware can be added also....See MoreWhat should I do after tree removal & stump grinding?
Comments (9)Mostly that. :-) The tree roots you're not going to be able to do much about quickly; they'll rot over time and the soil will...become even more uneven, actually. Add a quarter inch of soil at a time in low spots to bring it up, repeating every six weeks in areas with grass to give the grass time to adjust. Areas that are currently bare can be leveled immediately but, as always, count on some re-leveling as it settles. Be sure to use top soil without much or any organic matter and don't use compost! Compost will rot away to nothing eventually and leave you with uneven soil all over again. Soil tests can be done immediately as well, just make sure not to get any wood chips or bits in the test. I can and will read Logan Labs and will generally at least give a try on others, but don't make any promises. Amendments aren't recommended during seeding or on very young lawns, so you're going to be limited this fall except in emergency conditions. New seed will require watering three to four times a day, even to the detriment of the existing grass. Fortunately, it doesn't require much water, but it does demand to be kept damp at all times until it sprouts, and for any mix with bluegrass in it, that can be a solid month. I do recommend bluegrass because it's a nice, self-repairing grass. And I don't generally recommend professional services without a lot of research because...well, a lot are less than professional. :-)...See Morecowgirl2
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14 years agoSteven Laurin & Company
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