Chemical 10-10-10 same as organic 5-5-5 doubled?
ginjj
14 years ago
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jim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
14 years agosenko
14 years agoRelated Discussions
What is a good 5-10-5 Equivlanet Fertilizer?
Comments (16)Ah, I see--you said 20 lbs/K ft above but 10 lbs below. If it's the 10 lbs, that's fine. Once. I'm assuming the 2 is parts per million, which means you don't have much at all (you're seriously deficient). I'm also thinking an organic method would be best--it's possibly not that you don't have any P, but that it's locked away. Your pH rots. Combine that with the humic matter percentage and you have no buffer to deal with it, either. I'm guessing you have that kind of red clay that you could practically throw a pot from (I had the same, but in white clay). BTW, early spring tests of pH tend to be on the lower end of what your soil will show. Fall tests are considered best. How to go about things depends on what you have. If you have a nice lawn and are pretty happy with it, then follow those recommendations (leave at least a week between liming and feeding). Even if the pH stays bad, a fast shift isn't what you want. You can consider an organic feeding regimen if it appeals to you. If it's not great, go ahead and lime at that rate. Thinking of shifting to an organic feeding methodology would be a good idea. Raising the organic matter in the soil will buffer your pH toward 6.7 or so, feed the grass, add and grab onto nutrients, and generally do nice things to the soil. If it's really bad, that 15 lbs of lime per thousand isn't going to go far toward bringing the pH up to optimal range. Absolutely think about organics as they're really going to help (for the reasons above). I can't locate the calculation offhand, but I'd go higher on the lime and do it again in two to three months, then have the soil re-tested in fall....See More10-10-10 Organic Fertilizer
Comments (7)Below is a link that explains how to convert inorganic soil recommendations for use with organic materials. Fertilizer N-P-K Table 2 lists the components of a 10-10-10 organic fertilizer equivalent. I suggest that you avoid blood meal and use soybean meal (SBM) instead. Blood meal has a rapid N release. SBM has a much slower N release and is an excellent choice for ongoing organic fertilization. In summary here's a recipe for an organic 10-10-10 fertilizer. It contains .5 lbs each of N, P and K. 7.5 lbs soybean meal 4.5 lbs bone meal 10 lbs greensand -Deerslayer...See MoreYard Update 10/5/10
Comments (49)I can now say I have made the pilgrimmage to Harry's and what an absolutely fabulous spot he has created. Even this late in the fall, the place looks stunning. Thanks again for sharing your time Harry. We enjoyed some Ross Sapote which exceeds the canistel in texture by a substantial margin. Unfortunately the seed saved was discarded by accident but alas, we'll work on getting some more. I also was able to visit Fairchild and the Fruit and Spice Park on the same trip. F&S was looking very good. Managed to get seed from a queen guava, cinnamon apple (sapote family) and ice cream bean. Mamey sapotes found onthe ground were not ripe. Sapodilla trees were loaded but not ready. With their "you can eat it if it has fallen to the ground policy" in place, much things become impossible. By the time a jackfruit falls to the ground it would seem to be gone too far. Longan were all over the ground but finding one that was edible was next to impossible. I bought some black sapotes from Fairchild 2 weeks ago but they failed to ripen before we left so still haven't tasted that one... All in all it was a great experience....See More5' x 10' bathroom, Layout help welcome!
Comments (14)Our current MBR is close to your first plan, just a bit longer. We have a 5' x 14' master bath with a pocket door between the toilet/shower room and the double vanity, and our ceiling is only 7' 6". We plan to redo the room (it's 1970s era) and remove the wall and pocket door between the "wet" room and vanity because it feels totally cramped. Our entry door is also pocket but is placed more like your second plan, so it limits how we can use the long wall. Have thought about something similar to Plan Two but have almost totally nixed the idea due to the reduction in size of the shower by almost 9 inches from its max potential. Our current shower is 48x30 and it feels cramped to me, which is also attributed to its dropped ceiling - I call it "the coffin." We have no windows in there, and that also makes it feel crowded. We want to do a "tub in shower" idea like the picture someone posted, so we can squeeze a separate tub and shower into the space, but will be compromising by losing the "toilet room" and taking our vanity from 8' to closer to 5'. Our closet is also accessed through the bathroom (door is placed like in Plan One, so we are actually dealing with two doors in our bath - three if you count the existing wet room door), and we have waffled for two years about the necessity of a separate "toilet room" to preserve access for the other person to use the vanity and the closet if someone is in the toilet. Frankly, we have decided that if one is using the toilet, the likelihood of the other trying to use the room at all is very low. We have two other bathrooms in the house and if one of us is using the shower and getting ready, the other would go on to one of the other baths to have privacy to use the toilet, and not depend on a pocket door! That's the reason we think we will nix a pony wall for "privacy" around the toilet, too. Our previous 1950s house had a toilet just next to the vanity and we never used the toilet at the same time as the other person was using the bath (again, we had a half bath as well so could use it if needed) so it's just eating up floor space and visually closing off a tiny room. We are going to have to move our toilet about 3 feet directly adjacent (joists are running in our favor so that is a small consolation) and possibly rerun some H&A ductwork in our dropped shower ceiling (yes, dropped lower than 7'6" - our house was constructed for very short people, I think!). Would love to see what you come up with as we are still in the savings mode to do this project. One other consideration is placing plumbing on the exterior wall if you are in a cold climate. 2/3 of our bath is piped through the exterior wall and I wish it wasn't because we have to be really careful during cold snaps to remember to drip the faucets. You can't "drip" a toilet, though, so I worry!...See Morewirosarian_z4b_WI
14 years agomichaelg
14 years agoroseman
14 years agoginjj
14 years agodiane_nj 6b/7a
14 years agozack_lau z6 CT ARS Consulting Rosarian
14 years agoRiley Raine
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRiley Raine
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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harryshoe zone6 eastern Pennsylvania