You can certainly sow seeds however you want, but Winter Sowing is not direct sowing. It's a superior method because the containers protect the seeds from critters, insects, washouts, desiccation and windblown weed seeds. I would suggest that for comparison, you do try both direct sowing and winter sowing the same amount of seeds and at the end of the growing season you campare the results. Both methods will create hardy seedlings because germination is entirely outdoors, but with WS, because of the protective containers you will have a tremendous amount more of seedlings because more seeds survive the winter. T

I did something very similar in 2003. Just around thanksgiving with our first snow, I broadcasted out the prairie seeds over a 60x15 prepared area. No mulch, no amendment and the blanket of snow was my protection from birds. Also by this time the mice/voles ect. are housed up for the winter. My seed (flowers/grasses) were individually ordered from reputable native seed suppliers...no walmart mixes just for the simple fact you usually can't find any that do not contain a few non-native noxious/invasive species...like Dames Rocket, Bachelor's Button and Baby's Breath for example; two of which are on our local monitor list and one which made it too the noxious weed list.

Dear Dreamywhite Hi. Welcome to the Cottage garden website. For fast results next spring I'd suggest that you consider fall sowing of some hardy annuals. Larkspur, annual poppy (bread seed poppy, esp.) Larkspur will come up this fall but most of it should survive fine. Money plant (lunaria annua) is another good choice though seed sown this fall may not bloom until 2014. An advantage of these flowers I've mentioned is that they are rather "airy" and fit in between more substantial plants and their seedlings are easily pulled up if they come in the "wrong" place. Mostly I would suggest that you go to the Winter Sowing forum on gardenweb. These gardeners use a method that is much easier than indoor seedlings. Seeds are planted in late Dec. through Feb.(perhaps Jan. through March in Wisc.) Recycled containers are used--gallon milk jugs and 2 liter bottles. Potting soil is used for the medium and the containers are ventilated by poking holes. The containers are watered and then placed outside!! Snow, ice, cold rain are not problems. If they can be placed where they have some protection from heavy winds that is helpful. This method works well for Perennials, Biennials, and annuals. Some of the things that Winter Sowers have done successfully are coneflowers, rudbeckia, foxglove,baptisia, lupins. Any plants that benefit by stratification (alternate cold and warm phases during germination) do especially well. Advantages: Seeds more protected than in open ground. Seeds will germinate at their own time, depending on the weather of the particular year. Seedlings do not require conditioning since they've been outside for their whole lives. Seedlings seem to be especially sturdy. Disadvantages: Cautions, might be better. Early spring is the danger time, especially if there is unseasonably warm spell. Containers need to be opened to air when it gets warm. This is the only time that the sower needs to water the plants. Check out the Winter Sowing forum and also check out Trudi's Website at Wintersowing.org. This gardener who has been working in the same place since 1977 has a bit of envy for your blank slate. Chris

Darndogs, I experimented with direct winter sowing this year. Using plastic containers with clear plastic for tops. Germination varied from 50% to 100%. The plants although still 4-6" shorter than my transplants I started indoors when I put them out have passed them and doing lots better to this point. They also seem hardier. The only question left is how will they produce? Considering they produce well will start up to 80% of mine direct sown next year. I've had volunteers in the past do great and have a few this year I've used to fill in for lost plants. Just my experience. JD