Given the location of the tree (under the utility lines) and it's current condition (dead wood, leaning growth, nearness to the fence, and lack of sufficient pruning and training up until now), I could agree with butterfly4u's last recommendation. I've grown a number of these, both at my home and at my arboretum. I've also pruned and cared for them for clients. Thankfully I haven't had to deal with one in quite this shape before. Some of mine have succumbed to Verticillium wilt. From my experience, this genus seems somewhat more disease prone than many other alternatives. If you do want to keep this tree, there are at least three options. One is to coppice the tree. I guess that was butterfly4u's first recommendation, although I'm not positive about that. That option was already discussed above. Another option would be to stool the tree and select one or more shoots (originating from below the root collar) as the new trunk or trunks (depending on whether you preferred a more tree or bush form). This would be done in late winter/very early spring and would be done by cutting the entire tree down to within about an inch of the ground. As with coppicing, this would produce long, lanky growth. In this case, that growth would be desirable because it would form your new trunks. Assuming the tree was healthy, new sprouts should shoot up quickly. Attention to excess shoot removal and training would be required for a few years. The third option, to keep the tree, would be gradual pruning and training. If you decided to go with this method, I'd start by properly removing the stubs in the lower part of the tree. These should be cut to just outside the branch bark ridges and collars. I would consider removing "E" completely to reduce the leaning look of the tree. Branch "D" could be reduced back to just over position "2" on "E". This would also reduce the leaning effect. Be sure to perform proper reduction cuts here, as shown in the link below. There may be no prefect solution for the branches on scaffold "A". A few heading cuts (usually not recommendable) may be necessary to bring the canopy down away from the utility lines. Careful and detailed maintenance (removing excess shoots and followup pruning) for a few years following this pruning might lead to a satisfactory result. As with routine coppicing, this will lead to lanky growth. It would also produce wounds that won't be covered over for a long time (one of the main problems with heading cuts). Since this is not a large tree, that would pose a significant danger if a major limb failed, heading branches on "A" back may be acceptable. Of all of these options, I'd personally go with either butterfly4u's last recommendation or stooling, depending on how much I liked the tree and how much time I was willing to spend on it in the next few years. Here is a link that might be useful: Proper Reduction Cut

elbits, the first HE toploader was the Whirlpool/Kenmore Calypso introduced circa 2001. It was a complex mechanical design, expensive to produce but was the best HE toploader I've seen and used (I have one), washes very well with less water than the impeller models nowadays, and rinses very well. Users at the time had a hard time acclimating to the differences vs. agitator machines. Whirlpool sent reps to educate purchasers at the beginning of the test-market rollout. Fisher & Paykel's AquaSmart impeller models (I have one) are also very good. Whirlpool partnered with F&P and based the original Kenmore Oasis, Whirlpool Cabrio, and Maytag Bravos on the design, then successively changed various aspects of the mechanicals, impeller design, and cycle programming/action into what they offer today, along with the other brands which offer that type of machine. F&P has largely been a niche brand on the US market, other than via their DishDrawer dishwasher line, which presumably is a factor in why they discontinued those laundry products here.

I love my ramblers and wichurana hybrids, and though they will all take every inch they're allowed, some growing canes in excess of 25' (in every direction, lol) I love them one and all; the only "monsters" here are the wild multiflora roses. Not only are they invasive, they are a reservoir for RRD. And if they happen to be near any object or plant they can clamber over, they'll smother it. Any multiflora plant that reaches blooming size can, and does, set thousands of hips that birds disperse far and wide. I own 110+ acres, and they grow in every fence row, in every copse of trees, in every field and meadow. And every third plant shows signs of RRD. They truly ARE, collectively, monsters. There's just no way to rid my property, much less every surrounding farm, of the pest. I mow them, cut them, dig them, even, horrors, spray them. There's no stopping their advance.

I can't tell what's supposed to be so awfully weedy. But the area does not look particularly mower friendly, you might not want to just run blades over stuff. Use a loppers on the bigger things, get a weed whacker for the smaller stuff. Rent a bush hog if you feel you need to go flull nuke clear to the ground. If you got any of the poison weeds, kill them hard- if you got choking vines climbing trees those can be dealt with ruthless too. You could leave the rest a bit wild for a while if you want, see what moves in. Wild areas in the yard can be benefical to fauna and flora. But before you do any of that, have a plan in place for what you are going to do after clearing if you choose to do so. Ain't gonna do you much good to keep clearing if you aren't going to have something else there to take up the void. Scattering in some flower seed sounds good, but in practice is not very pratical. Mother nature will take over again before you will unless you keep up on the weeding till the flowers are well established. And also, wildflower areas also need mowing down and taking care of on the regular too, so if you go that route plan on keeping it maintained as a wildflower area. You could plant in with perennials, those would still need upkeep, but not the same kind as wildflower areas. You could also seed in with grass to fully grass in your yard once the area is clear. Or lay down thick chip mulch if you want it bare.