Check the FAQ for good advice on Phal culture. Also do a google and GW search for "phal orchid culture". There really is so much info. available between this and other forums plus the internet itself...that its really quite insane.

Meanwhile, they *do* need air circulation at the roots so I would definitely get a normal plant pot at a minimum and move it over. Just pull it out (taking a look at the roots while you're at it so you can report back for all the people that will ask you), and put it in a normal pot with drainage holes. Water about once a week or so and keep it in decent light. Don't forget, it is just a plant, and they need light, water, and air.
-MB

Go to google and put in Phalaenopsis, growing or Phalaenopsis, cultivation to find some complete cultivation notes. They are outside the scope of one one finger typing.

The moss is sphagnum moss and it is fine as growing medium providing you can provide suitable growing condiions.

You do not want to fiddle too much with repotting etc. because it is winter over there but perhaps you can water and then tilt the container to drain excess water to get through to spring and better times.

There are numerous past posts about Phalaenopsis that you can find by putting Phalaenopsis in the search box at the top of the discussions page.

Good luck with your new orchid.

Hi basi,

Arthur is right about this probably not being the best time for repotting (though it can be done), and as he also says, given other good growing conditions, the lack of drainage is not a problem. You will need to water with care and provide sufficient drainage yourself.

I have a large Phal in a drainless plastic pot within a basket. It is also in sphagnum moss and is in its third bloom cycle in these conditions. When I can stick my index finger down into the middle of the medium (up to my knuckle) and it feels almost dry (not damp), then I know it is ready to water. I take it to the sink, pour water into the medium until water rises to the surface, and allow it to sit for 3 to 5 minutes (for thorough wetting). Then I drain it.

To drain, I gently support the plant base at the sphagnum surface with one spread hand; with the other hand tilt the pot 2/3 of the way upside-down (a good trick when it has flower spikes!), until All of the water flows out. I hold it like this until it drips only once in 4 or 5 seconds. This is great for strengthening your arms :)

When you water, take care to keep water out of the crown of the plant (middle of plant, where the leaves emerge) in order to avoid fungal rot. In the winter, with central heat supplemented by a woodstove (vents and stove each 15+ feet away), this Phal needs water about once every 8-9 days.

My Phals grow within 4 to 8 inches of a large SSE exposure (glass doors). For two hours of the brightest direct morning sun, I shield the plants with a semi-sheer curtain (well, it's actually a negligee) to prevent sunburning of the leaves. During winter, temps near the glass are about 68-78 days and 62-65 nights. Humidity tends to be on the dry side, even in winter.

During most of the year, for three waterings out of four, I use Schultz Orchid Food (19-31-17) dissolved in water and kept covered under the sink, so that it will be at room temperature when I water. For the fourth watering, I flush with a larger volume of plain water to dissolve away any accumulated salts in the medium. (Others on this forum can recommend a variety of other fertilizers they use.)
Once the flowers begin to open, I stop fertilizing, as it seems to cause the blossoms to drop prematurely.

I hope something here will help you with your pretty new orchid. As I'm sure you will discover, there are more ways than one for growing Phalaenopsis.

Sweetcicely

Thank you for all the replies.

I also have a question about lighting. I live in a high rise and currently my plant is placed near floor to ceiling window facing East but Vancouver's weather is cloudy most days. Do you think it's getting enough light?

My guess is that the plant is in another pot and the moss is just loosely around it for show. The first order of business is to be sure it has drainage. If it does, then leave it "as is".

The east window will work well for a Phal.

Below is an url to excellent culture notes. A few minutes reading there will help a lot.

Here is a link that might be useful: COC culture notes

If you don't care about the pot it's in, another solution would be to heat the tip of an old screw driver, lift the pot above you and touch the tip to the plastic to make a small hole. Three to four holes should be enough and give your plant the drainage it needs. Don't push the screw driver in too far or you can injure the roots.

Sorry, I just saw that you said it's in a glass container. That being the case my suggestion won't work.