The tag should probably read Cattleya leuddemaniana 'Maruja' x 'Haydee'. A cattleya species that should grow OK under typical Cattleya Hybrid Growing conditions. Cannot tell you in detail how to grow because culture varies according to where you live in the USA. Frozen North? Florida, California? Anyway, find some complete Culture notes for cattleyas that relate to where you live and see how you go.

It sounds like mealy bugs. Alcohol on a cotton swab will kill individuals, dish liquid and alcohol and water, equal parts, as a spray. You will have to soak the medium too, because eggs lurk there. You will have to treat every few days as they are hard to eradicate.

Hi basi, Arthur is right about this probably not being the best time for repotting (though it can be done), and as he also says, given other good growing conditions, the lack of drainage is not a problem. You will need to water with care and provide sufficient drainage yourself. I have a large Phal in a drainless plastic pot within a basket. It is also in sphagnum moss and is in its third bloom cycle in these conditions. When I can stick my index finger down into the middle of the medium (up to my knuckle) and it feels almost dry (not damp), then I know it is ready to water. I take it to the sink, pour water into the medium until water rises to the surface, and allow it to sit for 3 to 5 minutes (for thorough wetting). Then I drain it. To drain, I gently support the plant base at the sphagnum surface with one spread hand; with the other hand tilt the pot 2/3 of the way upside-down (a good trick when it has flower spikes!), until All of the water flows out. I hold it like this until it drips only once in 4 or 5 seconds. This is great for strengthening your arms :) When you water, take care to keep water out of the crown of the plant (middle of plant, where the leaves emerge) in order to avoid fungal rot. In the winter, with central heat supplemented by a woodstove (vents and stove each 15+ feet away), this Phal needs water about once every 8-9 days. My Phals grow within 4 to 8 inches of a large SSE exposure (glass doors). For two hours of the brightest direct morning sun, I shield the plants with a semi-sheer curtain (well, it's actually a negligee) to prevent sunburning of the leaves. During winter, temps near the glass are about 68-78 days and 62-65 nights. Humidity tends to be on the dry side, even in winter. During most of the year, for three waterings out of four, I use Schultz Orchid Food (19-31-17) dissolved in water and kept covered under the sink, so that it will be at room temperature when I water. For the fourth watering, I flush with a larger volume of plain water to dissolve away any accumulated salts in the medium. (Others on this forum can recommend a variety of other fertilizers they use.) Once the flowers begin to open, I stop fertilizing, as it seems to cause the blossoms to drop prematurely. I hope something here will help you with your pretty new orchid. As I'm sure you will discover, there are more ways than one for growing Phalaenopsis. Sweetcicely

No help? That is because you are asking an impossible question. If the orchid was say a vanda you would get a very different answer to that given if your orchid was a Cattleya. Does the orchid have few stems or lots and lots bulb like lumps? Perhaps google Orchid Blooms, select images and see if you can find a bloom that is similar in shape.