Nothing. I use the same mixture of soil as in my pots and believe the idea is as the roots grow they are able to get more oxygen and are pruned by the air as they reach outside the basket holes. It has worked well for me on all but collected trees which will now be planted in wooden boxes. I don't think the baskets are the reason for losing the collected trees but I don't want to take a chance. I don't think I should have to change the soil as often because the roots are being air pruned and the soil is grit, turface, and sphagnum moss. Once the basket is filled with roots, yes I understand the soil have to be changed but how long does it take to fill the pot. I took the oldest(2 years)Japanese maple planted in a basket out of the basket And there is still plenty of room for root growth and no circling of the roots.

It isn't just the heat, 7% humidity I think is even worse. For a few years I've been experimenting with marginals and other plants growth in a water tight container. I've been trying to learn what works where. Cannas, Iris and tomato all slowly go down hill through summer in full sun. Pretty ugly, but alive. Much better if shaded part of the day. Too much shade and growth isn't good, few if any blooms. In a perfect world shade could be added in summer and full sun the rest of the year. Tomato was pretty worthless though. Along the line of Egyptian papyrus I've found Umbrella Palm (maybe Cyperus alternifolius or Cyperus involucratus, not sure) did super all summer in full sun. I got it out of a neighbor's yard. A surprising number of marginals are grown here in yards. Many marginals are adapted to store water for lean periods. Following that line I've been using nut sedge with very good results. Bright green, full when planted in mass, all summer full sun. It's a mondograss look alike. I'm trying mint right now and so far so good. Giant Reed, Arundo donax does great. Here some strangeness...I've been growing a several Chilean mesquite trees from seed in 5 gal buckets, clay soil, no drainage. These are watered everyday, but not to the point of standing surface water. When I've removed one from a pot there were roots down to the bottom of the bucket in standing water. Long term I assume some bacteria is going to get the upper hand, but it's been over a year and so far they're doing very well. Same for a few Fan Palms. Elephant's Food, Portulacaria afra doing well in no drainage. And it can be Bonsai. Pencil cactus, Euphorbia tirucalli, (not a real cactus) has done well no drainage. I would try any plant. Cactus is on my todo list. As McKool said, crown above water level for marginals is best, but really true for these non-marginals. And I can't expect these are always going to do great, rot is an issue. But if I can get some good years out of them I'm going for it. Gardening here is like being on another planet. I threw away my Sunset Western Gardener book which I relied on in San Jose CA.

My thoughts on this was that watering could be controlled in a pot - roots would not dry out [I wonder if sometimes watering unestablished plants in the ground....they dont get water to all the root system, helping those feeder roots to grow] and I do, when the plants are leafed out, add a teensy bit of fish emulsion to my water and I have seen them take off. Last year......I got in a bareroot that I really, really wanted. I soaked it overnight, dug a perfect hole, filled it with perfect soil, doted on it constantly and watched it, mulched the bare canes.....and it never really started growing properly, tiny little leaves, it never took off and despite my best efforts, it croaked. A couple of others did the same......I just felt that for whatever reason - the potted ones did better, gained some root strength and were able to go in the ground and then continue growing with the root system they had produced. I plant my old garden roses directly in the ground - like Archduke Charles, Hermosa, Penelope, etc. - and they do fine. I just have not had great success doing it with hybrid teas, floribundas and even a few Austins. But Lady of Megginch was put directly in the ground and did great [by the way, never see her mentioned, but this was a really swell rose - bloomed alot, beautiful blooms, doesnt seem to put out those octopus canes - I really do like mine!]. But Leander didnt even break dormancy nor did Darcy Bussell [kudos to D. Austin, they are replacing them]. I grow out all my bands in 1 gallon pots - I have already had to move Pink A Boo and Mme. Charles up to a 4 gallon. I guess because of the success I have had with bareroots in pots......I tend toward that potting method. But sure do appreciate hearing from all ya'll about what works for you........And those of you who pot - do you have anything special you do for your potted roses? Judith

Hello Becca, When I sit down to do design with someone we always discuss their needs first before we ever make it to the garden.Like the shows people watch, I always suggest to people watch their pets and children in the yard, see where they routinely walk, play and go potty(important dog sizes as well as male or female).I also suggest to the homeowners that they themselves pay attention to where they walk around,prefer to sit,amount of outside use,where they do maintenance(including water sytems, doggy doo disposal, composting,etc.Lets not forget lighting,wether your going to want some potted veges etc,,As well as sound,do you need something close to the deck to blend in noise, such as a fountain or small water feature. Then we discuss views, as in look out your windows,remember this is what your going to look at year round, so be sure to think either hardscape or interesting winter plantings.I explain we also need to look at what spaces need creative camoflauge, wether its the far end of the yard where you compost or an air conditioning unit, etc. From here we do a basic yard plan.Figureing in where your pet does all their business.If this is a male dog I would suggest you are careful about stone and container placement as well as small evergreens.Larger dogs such as labs will customize many veges in planters,Cats are also known for digging plants out of containers and using them for a potty. Okay so you sit down and draw out your yard,front back and house placement on the lot.Now look at the areas you have defined as pet space,window views,walkways,edgeing,camoflauging areas,Where your water and power hook-ups are etc, Sketch these in and see if the plan you picked will still work around them.This is important since its your preplanning space, its where you should be figureing out future elements you will be adding and hardscaping.By this I am suggesting you preplan spaces for things such as a storage sheds or whatever you may move into the backyard.You do not want to plant a shrub or tree and have to dig or cut it off 5 or 10 years from now to move a shed in.These type of things are easy to plan for now.You also need to look for the easist routes for your drip or sprinkler systems, even if you do not put them in now, you can preplan the mainlines,this also includes running around to the front of your home if you landscape it.Same goes for laying out hoses if you will be using them for watering,less work dragging and smashing plants.Figure out where you can afford to put in small amounts of hardscaping,wether its a pathway or edging,as well as stone placements,These are the elements which really tie your garden in.They are there in good and bad weather,they add demension to the area. Next you should check out your lighting times as well as which parts may get more wind, where the snow melts first,where the frosts hit first,etc.Sometimes these areas can be used to push seasons or protectless hardy plants. Then of course there is soil,whats under the sod? Xeriscape gardens do take soil prepping,if you want plants to do well.At times you may even need to add gravel pockets for particular plants who need better drainage. I would suggest all these things ,before you commit to a plan.The one you are looking out uses the rocks to allow for some lower growing plants which would be quickly covered up by larger plants,by doing this they are able to add demension with ups and downs.The rocks also offer up height for fall and winter.The pink colored flowers picked in this plan appear to be there for color blending.To give a cooler relaxed effect.Where as when you toss in bright yellows and oranges you tend to make a brighter warm garden.Whites usually stay in the neutral, fading into the grey blue tones or popping out of the red,yellows and oranges. LOl, guess this got long, anyhow my whole point is what I tell my clients, research, and preplan.Yes its the boring stuff and I know it changes as one goes, but in the long run it can save a heck of alot of money and time. If you have the actual garden plan figured out and its really about plants and money, I always suggest, hardscape, soils trees and shrubs first.Fill in with annuals,herbs and veges, buying the perennials(clearance sales are great), seed starting etc, as you go.These are you back bones that will rarely change, so getting them in and growing healthy is important. Our main gardens lean to xeriscape,using much less water then people think,even though they are extremely lush and full.Our rooftop however is extremely xeriscape,all plants growing in 4inches of soil or less. Hope this gives you some other pointers to look at as your jumping in. M