Congratulations - it sounds like you have done your homework and are getting ready to reap the rewards.

Welcome to the addiction.

Brooke

Good for you! Getting your very own spikes-- priceless! Sounds like you've gotten a couple of years experience with orchids in just a few months.

Not sure why the catts are in the humidity box-- I wouldn't think they needed that. But "don't mess with success".

At any rate, this Buds for you!

Sounds like you're doing a great job! I'm not familiar with a 'dog crate' fan. If the catts have plenty of air movement and you don't overwater, it should work. We'll look forward to seeing a pic of your first bloomers.

Sheila :)

Sounds like a great setup :) I'm curious how the damp gravel is working for you... I've been thinking about putting some hydroton clay pellets in my 90gallon tank, but I'm concerned that there may be algae buildup.

Calvin don't waste your expensive hydroton pellets, use the regular gravel for a fish tank. Putting Physan into the water will keep the algae at bay.

Brooke

Thanks for the advice, Brooke. So in your opinion, it's relatively okay to have perpetually wet fish tank gravel at the base of the tank (with decent air movement of course)? I'm thinking of ways to improve humidity in the tank this winter. How often does this need to be cleaned?

Personally, I wouldn't Calvin. This sounds like an invitation for fungal and bacteria to get a hold..even with Physan. I don't see any reason for it.

Karen, I assume you have strong lights over the Catts in the aquarium? An East window would not be enough light to flower a Cattleya.

Jane

Thank you for the comments! I have rooted many cuttings from wicking water up from the bottom gravel area of a smaller aquarium. I use columns made of glass, open on both ends and filled with sand. I can monitor the dampness by looking at the sand. Every two months I add a little water. Never has an issue with bacteria or fungus since I clean the gravel after the seedlings are tranplanted. The cattleya aquarium is next to a East facing window with reptile lights on as supplemental lighting. My spikes are growing well with this set up. The humidity gets high, but running the fan brings it right down to an acceptable range of 60-70 percent. I rarely add water. The lid flaps must be open at all times. I may need to increase the light if I don't see buds.

Calvin I assume you will be keeping the gravel moist and yes it will start to grow algae. The more light reaching the gravel, the more algae.

When the algae starts to form, raise the water level above the gravel and add the Physan. You don't have to worry about bacteria and fungus any more with the wet gravel than you would with any enclosed terrarium environment.

Brooke

FWIW: On top of my gravel I put an eggcrate cut to size and then a green felt reptile liner over the eggcrate to stop light penetration to the gravel. (Throw a few colorful rocks and things in there and it actually looks pretty good). This setup still usually allows a little light to penetrate at the very bottom of the tank as the height of the gravel and the eggcrate are usually higher than the framework that holds the bottom and sides of the tank. I use black electrical tape (frame is also black) to cover that crack.

My tank 'kids are either sitting on the felt or hung from the sides of the tank. I mist daily and water every 3-5 days directly in the tank, the felt allows the excess water to just pass through to the gravel. I am replacing the felt liner about every 2 years, as it gets grungy and I'd rather not put in in the washer.

I still have to empty the tank and clean it and the gravel once or twice a year (major PIA). There is a specific musky/danky odor that tells me when it is time to clean the tank. I also clean the inside sides and front about every 2-3 months to remove mineral buildup from the glass.

I used to carefully pour a mild bleach water solution in the gravel occasionally to sanitize it, but I really didn't like the lasting smell of bleach and I'm not sure that it wouldn't eventually cause my plants some problems.

HTH,

Bob

Here is a picture....

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:193615}}

Karen that looks like a great setup :) I'm looking forward to hearing more about your blooms that are surely forthcoming.

Jane - that was my fear too. I think another one of my problems is that my tank isn't completely sealed, so I lose a lot of humidity that way. I know humidity is over-rated, but under the T5s, things get dry pretty quickly, and it's tedious to have to water the mounts every day.

Brooke - I once saw a setup where someone actually had 3 inches of water inside the tank, with a filter pump to keep the water clean. In my mind this could avoid the algae problem, but then again I've never kept fish, so I don't know. I've also come to realize that I'll need *a lot* of gravel to cover the floor of the 90 gallon tank, so water might be a better option..what do you think?

Bob - that's a really good idea. I'll have to look into the reptile liner stuff. I assume that's available at any sort of pet store? And you don't find you have any sort of fungal/mold problems? I'm suspicious I don't have enough fan action going on so I might need to improve that.

Calvin,

I picked up my felt at a pet store. I have a 55 gal long tank and they had a liner for that size tank. I really can't remember if I saw a liner that would fit 90 gal tanks. I run two 65 watt CFLs (long thin ones in a fixture for aquariums) on top of the tank and 2 computer fans inside the tank, it also has the lift-up lids (2) that you normally see on a fish tank. I keep my tank open most of the time as the heat build-up is too much if I 'seal' the tank. This explains my need to mist the mounties every day or more.

Bob

I lost the visualization with 'glass columns filled with sand' !! Would be REALLY great to see it in a pix !! I'm very interested and my 55 gal has been sitting in the basement empty for 16 years except once. Was used as a Wardian case exhibit in the NCOS Show last October !!

Please post a pix !

Chryss

OOPS ! Sorry, for some reason the forum didn't send me the posts from the one with pix on until I posted my request for a pix !

Karen, where's the columns ?

Bob, how about a pix ?

Chryss

Bob,

"Long thin CFLs" ?? I thought CFLs were the cork screw shaped normal light bulb screw in replacements ?? A pix of your lighting system would be greatly appreciated !

It's sinking in that 2 - 65 watt CFLs in a 55 gal (4 foot long) is 130 watts which is 5 watts better than my 4 tube, T8 32 watt, 4 foot fixture putting out only 128 watts !!! So it's basically the same ammount of light but the tank is a more controlable environment.

Geez, just what I need !! Another place to put more orchids !!!

C-

Here is a picture of the propagation method I am using for Hydrangea cuttings.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:193617}}

NOW I got it ! But where on earth (or Mars !) did you get the 'glass columns' ??? Just VERY curious !

Chryss

I made them. I am a research scientific glassblower. I have many different column sizes and lengths. Are you interested in them for your set up?

Chryss,

Don't have a pic handy, but the type of CFL I'm referring to is generally used in aquariums. Seach google for: 65 watt CFL + 2g11. The 2g11 is the type of base connection (4 pin instead of screw-in) for these types of CFL lights. They make nice looking fixtures ($$$) for these types of bulbs or you can go to AHSupply.com and purchase a build-it-yourself kit.

HTH,

Bob