Hi! You poor thing, want to grow roses, eh? ;-)) You only want to cut off the blooms once it doesn't look good (what "doesn't look good" is up to you). Clip or snap off just below the bloom. Your new plants need all of the leaves they can get now, so no "hard pruning" for the rest of the season. No cutting off "old wood", no pruning down to the soil level (you'll never do this at all, unless the canes are totally black and dead). After blooming, you can fertilize. Fish emulsion would be good. You can try Espoma Rose-tone, but some of it won't break down in containers (I still use it anyway). Miracle Gro is OK too, but some people like to stay away from synthetic fertilizers (roses don't know the difference). Good luck!

Not really sure Sengyan You have a difficult time to this because you have one larger mother root feeding it! How far away is it from the trunk? I was just thinking,.. leave it alone and graft on it, they can grow very close together, even a foot is fine!...Our trees don't grow huge anyway and you can always cut it down low. But...if you are thinking of moveing anyway, this is what I would do. Cut about 2/3 of the root with a saw the first year, [spring] the root leading to it from the main trunk, about a foot away from the sucker, also, cut the root going away from the sucker all the way. Then in another year cut completely thru. Konrad

There are some photos here... The spores are bright orange, not yellow and very powdery. If you look at the photos you can actually see little raised bumps. Every fall I go bargin hunting at the local nurseries looking for prennials I refuse to pay the full price for and a couple of years ago almost every Daylily they had was covered with rust, so yes nurseries can be a source of rust. If you decide to speay make sure you use a systemic. The first time I had it here I used a contact spray which looked like it was working but the rust kept coming back. I eventually gave up and let it run it's course. I am in Zone 5 so winter kills it. I had it in 2005, 2006, and 2007. I have since changed my buying habits and have not seen it again. I no longer buy from people in the south or areas without the extended cold spells it takes to kill it. If they buy new intros from the south I get them to send my plants out as early as possible to avoid their new plants sending it here. It is unsightly but I cannot say it has actually killed any plants here. I am sure it set some back and they did not preform as well the following years. Leaf streak can look like rust, look for the little RAISED bumps and the orange powdery spores. I was out in the garden this morning and saw 1 case of leaf streak that made me check to make sure that's what it was so even though you have seen rust a quick view of any miscolored leaves tends to make you think about it. It is not the end of the world either. Here is a link that might be useful: Rust

The rows of holes do sound like sapsuckers. Although related to woodpeckers, they are not going after insects in the tree, but the sap (hence the name sapsucker). You shouldn't have to worry about ants. I've seen a lot of sapsucker damage, but never heard of them going after conifers. I see them on aspen, birch, mountain-ash, and some small maples like amur maple. I would be surprised if they ate pitch from a conifer. Typically sapsuckers feed for a couple of weeks and move on. The small wounds they make can heal over, although if there are a lot of them - several rows - then there is the risk that sections of bark will die and more serious damage occurs. If the sapsuckers are actively feeding, they will return to the same tree several times a day. If so, it is time to try the beach balls.