That's way cool Glenn, wouldn't take long to form a hedge with a plant that suckers like that I bet. Far as I know we can only get CJ, CP, and Romeo down here. Hope they get the others figured out soon! I'd heard it has something to do with passing some long and drawn out virus test or something. But I'd like to have them ALL!!!!!!

Thank you so much. I was afraid nobody would help in time. I'll get to it right away. They are already showing a little wilt on the bottommost leaves. I searched and searched for root propagation methods, read one where you cut two slits, read how growers use rhizopon AA for more blooms when transplanting, was going to run to the nursery, they may not have it, and we want bushes and worry about the blooms later. So I'll just do as you suggest and hope for the best. I'll try to bury them about the same level they grew. I don't think you want to put them way deep in the pot, nor too shallow either. I did a lot of reading and searching last night, and it seems fall is the best time for transplanting roses/suckers, but I think early spring should be ok, too. I would, in time like to find out the best way to do root propagation like the old rose searchers I've read about did. It sounds easier than cuttings if it works except I fear most property owners would be more reluctant to let you dig around a rose rather than just take some cuttings.

Unless the parent tree was own root the sucker yours came from is the sweet cherry rootstock and not the named cultivar that was presumably grafted onto it. Either the rootstock seedling happens to be a yellow cherry as well or the whole parent tree, including the roots was the yellow cultivar. Sweet cherry is actually a weed species in this region and suckers to form groves on local wooded hillsides, where it even overtakes and overtops the native red alder trees often present in quantity on the same sites. It also crosses with the much less exuberant, native bitter cherry to produce a nearly fruitless, intermediate hybrid called Puget cherry. Some ~tall examples of the latter are conspicuous when in bloom, on undeveloped land between I-5 and Lakeside School (near Seattle). It is usual to have problems with suckering and bony surface roots with plantings of sweet cherries - perhaps all the more so when these are present as rootstocks for Japanese flowering cherries. All you can do is uncover the bases of the suckers and saw them away. If there are horizontal runners that lead back to the original planting follow these back to the parent tree and saw them off at their points of origin, pull the rest up. You don't, of course want to saw off normal roots of the parent tree - just the ones that are suckering runners like aspen trees and running species of bamboos produce. This post was edited by bboy on Sat, Mar 15, 14 at 17:05

Thanks for your replies. I got my order Monday afternoon. I was out in the yard and was going to get started planting potatoes when the UPS truck pulled in my driveway with my Stark Brother's order. You'd think, since I ordered a month ago that I would have a spot in mind to actually PLANT my new cherry tree and other stuff but I didn't. So I circled my yard a few times, shovel in hand, turning in cirles and staring up at the trees, walking back and forth counting paces a few times. If I carry a shovel, that makes me look less crazy to the neighbors right? The plants they sent me were bigger than I expected them to be. I spent a good part of the day yesterday digging holes for the Balaton Cherry and for a Jupiter grape. Sure seemed hard to dig. I think my arms are weak from lack of use over winter. I was exhausted yesterday evening. I read that Balaton has a tendency to form narrow crotch angles will need some training and pruning of course. I've been reading about different methods to help the branches spread out to wider angles but I think I won't have to do that until next year. Will I need to spray it this year for anything or should I just wait to see what happens?