Orchids that you can do without
xmpraedicta
13 years ago
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13 years agostitzelweller
13 years agoRelated Discussions
What do you do with your spent Orchids?
Comments (37)I've been growing orchids for a long time. I grew them in NY in windows and now we live in Florida so they live outside. You should all visit the Orchid Forum for help with your plants. Its on Gardenweb under 'Orchids.' Lots of nice people who can answer your questions and help you be successful. Most Phals bloom once a year from new spikes. If you leave the old spikes they are not as pretty as a new spike as the flowers get smaller and smaller and the old spike crooked. Much better to cut the old spikes off and let the plant grow new leaves over the summer months. Phals will initiate new spikes with temperature drop. In the late summer/fall as the night temps drop it triggers the plant to flower. So, if you grow in the house, you must provide a temp drop of at least 10/15 degrees. Easiest to do if your plant spends the summer outdoors in a sheltered spot. The bud blast is caused by the sudden change of temps or direct sunlight on the buds. Best to start bringing your plants in after they begin spiking and let them develop their buds in a window. This way the plant can adjust to the dry air in the house. They are very easy to grow, you just need to understand that a sudden change in temps and humidity can affect the buds. I always brought my Phals back indoors before the heat was on in the house, usually mid September (in NY). If your Phals are to remain in the house, just provide the night time temperature drop in the Fall. A cooler room where you can crack the window at night would work. Remember, they need that temperature drop to flower. In nature, Phals grow attached to tree trunks, high above the ground. They do not grow in dirt. Their roots have evolved to catch rain water or humidity. Growing in pots is something we do, not the way they grow. Keeping them in pots works if you let their roots have air. They are air-roots, they will rot if kept too wet. Forget ice cubes. These plants grow in tropical rain forests. No ice cubes there. Just water when they are almost dry. Do not keep them wet or they will die. Us your finger to feel the potting mix before watering. Do not water if it feels damp...wait! Best to repot yearly. Use an orchid mix and make sure the pot has drain holes. Remember, these plants do not grow in dirt. They grow attached to tree trunks exposed to the air and rain. Do not overwater and do not let the potting mix stay too wet. You should only fertilize in spring and summer when you see new growth beginning. Phals make their leaves in summer and flower in fall. Feed the leaves for the best flowering. You can give a weak fertilizer in the winter, but only a very weak amount. Feed Spring and summer. Sorry to write so much. These plants are so easy to grow if you remember where they originate. They grow on trees out in the air, not in pots. They can grow well in pots if you remember their roots need air. Truly easy to grow and will flower for 6 months. What plant does that? Each year they grow bigger and bigger and you get more and more flowers. This was a small Phal sitting in a dentist office. I took it back to my house that summer until it bloomed and brought it back to the dentist office. This plant was small and this is only its second year. Don't toss them. Just forget what you've learned about 'dirt plants.' These are 'air plants.' If you give their roots air you can't go wrong. You'll be rewarded. Jane Here is a link that might be useful: American Orchid Society...See MoreHow can I mount an orchid? What do you use to mount orchids?
Comments (0)Mounting orchids is a simple process. First, I would suggest applying the hanger to your mounting material. Most people make hangers for the mounts from wire. The most common wire used is the wire used for hanging suspended ceilings, but any strong, yet flexible wire may be used. One method is to bend the wire into a u shape, and then hammer the wire into the mount. The other method is to drill a hole or two and thread it through the mount. Making a tag with a hole and threading it onto the hanger is a wise thing to do to identify the plant. A tag made from Tyvek scraps and permanent marker may be used if you dont have any fancier material. Orchids to be mounted are placed on the mounting material which has been soaked in water (I like to leave it over night). Some people put a pad of good quality sphagnum moss on the mount then place the roots on top of itallowing the roots to spread first into the sphag. Before it goes into the mount thereby helping it get established. Others prefer to place the plant directly on the mount, or to put the sphag pad on the outside. The plant is then tied into the mount, by wrapping monofilament (fishing line), twist tie, or panty hose around the roots. Once the plants roots have grown into the mount, the line, twist ties, or panty hose is removed. Tree fern plaques (or slabs), and cork bark are probably the most commonly used mounting material, but other materials include cactus skeletons, and rough driftwood (both of which may be purchased at pet stores as they are used for reptiles). Some people like to use slabs of wood with bark attachedsuch as live oak or fir. Fresh water driftwood may be used, but driftwood from saltwater bodies must be washed to remove the salt. Using Physan to kill any bad things on collected mounts is also a good idea. Driftwood as a whole may not be the best material as orchids like to have a somewhat rough surface to grow into. One grower uses paint sticks for some of his smaller mounts. Tree fern slabs are probably the most quickly drying. Vary your mounting material to the plants needs. Plants needing a quicker dry-out should be mounted on a more porous material and the sphagnum or coir pad may be skipped....See MoreDo you fertilize your Orchids? How important is it to you?
Comments (4)With regards to fertilizing orchids, my impression is that success is measured more with what you don’t see, than what you do. So a picture that represents proper feeding of an orchid would be far less convincing and instructive than a picture of an orchid that has been over-fed. The variety of approaches that have been employed by various orchid-growers and touted by experts is mind-boggling. But the common thread among the cognoscenti seems to err towards “gently.” In the several decades that I’ve been growing orchids (much of which has been spent with no firm concept of what orchids actually need to support their growth) there seems to have been only one major “breakthrough” which has soared above most other approaches, and which has lasted in its renown to this day. That of course would be the MSU approach of utilizing relatively low phosphorus in its overall balance, together with employing mostly nitrate-sourced nitrogen and avoiding Urea nitrogen altogether. The other guiding concept in fertilizing would be summarized by the recommendation that a steady, consistent and relatively weak fertilizing regime is more supportive to orchids than strong periodic fertilizing. There are several approaches to this process, according to how scientifically-minded one happens to be. One would be to determine optimal PPM nitrogen over a prescribed period of time based on the type of water you happen to be using. The other, simpler approach (after ensuring that your water source is acceptably conducive to orchid-growing to begin with) is to feed weakly weekly at ¼ strength of the monthly recommendation, assuming a 20-20-20 or equivalent formula. Or using that same strength as a constant feed with periodic flushing, depending on genus and its tolerance to added “salts.” For example, I don’t hesitate to constant feed my cattleyas and phalaenopsis with a monthly flushing. But I wouldn’t feed my paphs with that strength more frequently than once a week, so at least one, of not two plain water applications fall between feeding. In addition, good general feeding practice frequently advises pre-watering before applying fertilizer to buffer sensitive roots. Given the application of a ¼ strength solution I feel this is less important for some genera that others. Finally, as some readily available fertilizers are balanced for acid-loving plants, it would be inadvisable to assume that any fertilizer that happens to be on hand would be helpful to orchids. The below link accesses an article on MSU fertilizing and a table that sets out two formulas. It is important to remember that orchids do most of what they do by virture of the light and supportive moisture that they receive. The picture below represents an overfertilized, and arguably over-lit paph from an overly-eager grower, i.e., me. MSU Fertilizer Formulas...See MoreDo NOT buy from Norman's Orchids - orchids.com
Comments (29)Hi Elsa, no they are not OK with cold. I said I paid extra $15 to Norman's Orchids to get a plant in bloom and they sent me a plant without a bloom stalk even. And no tag. So, I would NOT RECOMMEND TO BUY FROM THIS SELLER orchids.com. It was not just one time - 4 times in the row. I was still hoping they will send me good plants. I am afraid to buy online after this bad experience, but heard that there are better sellers....See Moresmwboxer
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