Does it get cold enough in your area that the bulbs will have a cool and long enough chill season in the ground? Will they be planted in an area where the foliage can be left in place for 6 weeks after they have finished blooming...ie not mowed? If the foliage is removed/mowed too soon, the bulbs will not bloom the following season. Sue

Western wheatgrass isn't often listed as a turfgrass. Were they talking about western wheatgrass or crested wheatgrass (or streambank wheatgrass)? Streambank wheatgrass isn't normally found as far east as MN, so I didn't list it. I don't like crested wheatgrass very well. I don't like the color very much (too yellow) and the way it lives in low water conditions is to go in and out of dormancy very quickly Western wheatgrass deals with drought by having an extensive root system. So it has to be dry for a long time to go dormant (the native stuff in fields here usually goes dormant in mid July after no rain since the first week of June). It's not without faults, though. It's almost blue in color and has wider blades than most of your other options (with the exception of K31 tall fescue). I've seen native stands here under trees along the road that look like they'd keep it shaded most of the time. Most of this area is either zone 5 or 6, but at higher elevations, it's zone 4 and I've seen it growing there, too (native, no water at all except for snow, early spring and late fall rains). If you want something that is closer in color and blade width to a traditional lawn, western wheatgrass is not what you want, but if you want something that will stay green (or blue, anyway) with no water from the sprinklers, it'll do the job. The fescues will probably stay green in MN, so CRF + sheep fescue might give you a lawn that will stay green for the most part and look more like what you're used to seeing.

Creeping fescue may be great for some areas and/or desired types of lawn, but I have concerns about mine. I like nice tall, single-blade grasses but I have something that has invaded that turns my lawn into a mat of grass that is all interconnected at the roots. It takes over entire portions of my lawn, and while green in the summer, it dies and turns brown all winter and early spring. Hard to get rid of too. I'm trying to eliminate this creeping grass, and beginning to wonder if I didn't introduce it myself through seeding. Not sure if this is bermuda grass, centipede grass or creeping fescue. Photos would be helpful. And tips on how to get rid of whatever it is. Lots of interconnecting roots..... Thanks!!!

i think a big part of it is that Fine Fescue needs less (about half if not more) fertilizer than TTTF. With these yards having fertilizings skipped very often, or not fertilzied in years, but yes clippings are mulched as fertilizer, just might be all the fertilizer the Fine Fescue needed, but the TTTF died out from lack of fertilizer. Besides that though I am extremely impressed by the full sun, no irrigation tolerance Fine Fescue has shown, I'm not sure if it's chewings, hard, crepping red, etc fine fescue but leads me to think it's one of the spreading/creeping verities because of the thickness it created. So don't overlook Fine Fescue in full sun,,, although it can be killed by too much synthetic nitrogen fertilizer (possibly even by standard application rates of companies like true green and scotts), and some might not like the look of it, and it does rip out quite easily compared to other more foot traffic tolerant grasses like KBG and TTTF, but it's a tough frkn grass I wouldn't count out.