Lazyman, Nitron, or Aerify Liquid Aerator: Do any of these work?
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16 years ago
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quirkyquercus
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Liquid Thatch remover?
Comments (7)Actually you can make these type products for a lot less than either of these companies are going to sell it for. The idea of these products is to kick up the activity of the microherd in your soil which feast on the thatch. In many cases, you will not get a label which list the products so you won't mix your own and buy their expensive product. The majority have soluble Kelp, Humic Acid, Molasses, etc. which kick those micro-organisms into high gear. This, coupled with a homemade soil conditioner, which loosens up compactness, are great for defeating excessive thatch. Please note excessive as a little thatch is good (1/4" or so) For a gallon of the Kelp/Humic acid: 2oz of soluable Kelp Powder ($8.95 for 4 oz, $16.95 for 16 oz, plus shipping) 4oz of soluble Humic Acid Powder ($7.95 for 8 oz, plus shipping) 122 oz of Water (free) Mix these into a jug Blackstrap, unsulphered Molasses (which I get at the grocery store) For a gallon of soil conditioner: 60 oz of Soduim Laureth Sulfate ($18.95 per gallon, but shpping is a little heavy) 8 oz of Yucca Extract ($15.14 for 16 oz) 40 oz of water (free) mix these in a jug You can substitute baby shampoo for the soduim Laureth, but use about 100oz and reduce water. In a hose end sprayer, mix/shake 2 oz of each for every 1K sq. ft of lawn you are going to apply and spray away. Together is fine As for the molasses, don't mix them in any of the jugs. Add a couple of ounces every other time you are going to spray into the hose end sprayer, with the other mixes noted, shake and fire away. My first year I did it every other week with amazing results, especially with soil compactness. The second year about once a month. I can drive a screw driver into the ground 4-6" with eases (this is a result of the soil conditioner). Lastly, if you want to not discuss thatch in the future, pay attention to watering and mowing practices, coupled with avoiding excessive synthetic nitrogen fertilizing which you can do by going organic. Last Note: As always, I have to give credit where credit is deserved. There is very knowlegable people who have spent countless hours coming up with this stuff that lurk this forum and others. These guys are fantastic. If you want to learn more about these homemade formulas, google "Kelp Help" and "BL Soli Conditioner"....See MoreAerating this fall
Comments (9)My lawn is ~5000 ft2. Would a Turf Hound aerator be feasible for a lawn my size or is it a suicide mission? The Hound Dog is really attractive because itÂs only $25 or so, no gas, easily stored, and donÂt have to rent it so thereÂs the convenience of aerating whenever I decide to on a whim. I donÂt mind spending a few hours out there with it, but if itÂs an all day project, forget it. Then again, I suppose I could still get it regardless and just split up the work between several days and still get the benefit over a gas rental. Just trying to get an idea of how the Turf Hound rated on the Âbackbreaking scaleÂ, or this 5k ft2 project would rate on the Âcrazy scaleÂ. ;)...See More5 different types of grass - What to do?
Comments (17)It is interesting that you are in northern VA yet have pH=7.3 I would start by following their recommendation for adding elemental sulphur. Getting the pH below 7.0 before reseeding (not under 6.5) will improve your chances. You have phosphorus coming out the ears, so don't apply a starter fertilizer (with high phosphorus, it's the 2nd of the 3 numbers NPK on a fertilizer bag). You say you have a sprinkler system. What you want to do with it is to water just when the soil needs it, and for about an inch at a time. Watch the grass and when it begins to look drought-stressed (a bit droopy, blades curling a bit, color looking a bit grayish, etc.), the grass begins to feel dehydrated, and when you walk across the grass you can still see the footprints a minute or two later (in the grass, not the dirt), then it's time to water. You'll notice that if you try to stick a big screwdriver about eight inches into the soil, it will be easy after you water and rather difficult when you need to water, which is another good measure of when to water. The point, here, is that you'll need to water more often (maybe even every four days) during hot dry windy weather, maybe once a week during typical summer weather, and not very often during cooler weather. Rain counts as watering, so measure it too (if you keep a can sitting out in the open somewhere, you'll be able to see how much any rainshower amounted to). You could kill the existing mix of grass with roundup. You almost certainly don't want to till the dirt, just fill in the low spots (holes) to level. Either turf-type tall fescue (TTTF) or elite types of kentucky bluegrass (KBG) will work. TTTF will be easier to maintain. KBG will be finer textured and darker green. Virginia (jointly with Maryland) publishes a useful list each year of recommended cultivars, which you can find by doing a web search....See Morelawn aeration
Comments (5)sorie6, right now is not the most bestest time to spray for "weed" control, although it you can work in those temperatures now would be a good time to aerate the soil, if it needs it. Mid September would be when you would want to look at "weed" control if it is needed. Since most all annual "weeds" in the grass will be going dormant for the winter about then concentrating on getting the turf grass you have to grow better and thicker wil go a long way toward eliminating the "weeds" than would any control measure since they have most all spread more seeds that will germinate next year when conditions are right. Right now, if possible, keep the grass well hydrated, mow high, recycle the clippings right where they came from (the grass clippings will provide 1/2 your lawns annual nutrient requirements). Get a good, reliable soil test done if you have not already done that and this fall adjust the soils pH, if necessary, and later feed that turf grass so next spring the grasses will grow up hale and hearty able to compete with the "weeds". stan6, as bpgreen has stated those liquid "aerators" are simply soap that lessens the surface tension of water so it penetrates better. They do nothing to actually aerate soil. The most bestest way to get soil aerated is to spread compost over the soil to loosen it and while this may take time, and is something that needs to be done at least annually, it is a more permanent solution to compacted soil....See Morebpgreen
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